Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter
You are on exactly the right path.
See, factory V8 engines were in the front engine mount holes on the frame. They sat forward of the inline 6 position. To do it "proper", you'd need to get the V8 frame stands and move it forward.
The problem is, you want to keep your truck as original as you can. The factory crossmember under the 3 speed bellhousing is riveted in place. You'd have to cut it out and replace it with a factory V8 under bellhousing crossmember, which is located forward of your present crossmember. This would in turn, require you to lengthen the driveshaft.
The best way, in my opinion, is to install the V8 in the rear holes where the six is now. That way you don't have to monkey with the crossmember or driveshaft. I have personally done it this way a few times and the job is very straightforward.
If the block isn't drilled for the pivot ball to screw into, there will be a flat, blank spot there, where it should be. Simply drill the block and tap the hole. It is very easy to do. Cast iron drill and taps like butter.
As far as the engine mounts, look at what you have now. Notice there is a frame stand, then a rubber mount, then an engine bracket mounted to the block. All you have to do is unbolt the rubber mount from the 6 cylinder engine bracket and bolt it to the V8. Same mount fits both. So, you wind up with the factory frame stands, factory 6 cylinder rubber mount bolted to the V8. No mods required whatsoever.
The present bellhousing will bolt right to the V8 using the same bolts. If you get an earlier small block engine (pre 87) which uses the older type 2 piece rear main seal, your present flywheel and clutch assembly will also bolt to the new V8. Again, no mods required whatsoever. It even uses the same bolts. The starter is bolted to the bellhousing rather than the block on the present inline 6. Simply bolt it right back to the bellhousing when you swap the V8 in place.
So, to sum up, if you get an earlier V8 engine, all of your present clutch, flywheel, starter, bellhousing, everything will 100 percent swap over. This alone is reason enough, for me at least, to use the earlier engine. Finding a manual trans flywheel and clutch assembly for the later model engine is often times quite costly.
Another compelling reason to use an earlier V8 is that the block will accept a mechanical fuel pump. Later model engines are blanked off where the mechanical pump would go, forcing you to run an electric pump instead. Myself, I hate electric pumps. Manual pumps cost less than 20 dollars and last hundreds of thousands of miles.
A generic parts store pilot bushing will tap into place in the V8 crankshaft. Nothing fancy needed there either. The inline 6 and V8 actually use the same part number pilot bushing if you feel the desire to reuse your old one.
Like I said above, I have done this swap myself before, so if you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask.
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