Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug_J
I wouldnt buy the transfer case lowering kit. Their should be spacers on the inside of the frame, taken the bolts outta the crossmember take the spacers an put them between the crossmember an the frame.
|
I never bought any. Tuff Country supplies them with the lift kit and the ones I have are still in their packages. My point was they are not only unnecessary,they are counter to what is needed. The shorter front driveshaft's angle is greater affected by a lift than the much longer rear. Dropping the transfer case lowers the tail end of the rigid engine/transmission/transfer case assembly which increases the angle on the front shaft. On 67-72 4wds it puts the already crowded to the firewall engine and,especially an HEI,distributor even closer to the firewall. Dropping the t-case also defeats part of the ground clearance we hope to gain by doing a lift in the first place. It's just not a good idea in this range of lift...IMO
Quote:
Originally Posted by texassquarebodies
Going to try and measure for correct length driveshaft this week. Im off of work but, seem to have other importsnt things to do. Its just a toy, so last on my list. I probably have a drive shaft in my inventory. I will start with that.
Going with 16.5 and Humvee take offs. Im ready to drive it!
|
Rat own Brutha! Just as interesting (maybe) conversation,when I lifted my '85 Jimmy 4" and also swapped a 14-bolt I was figuring on shortening the driveshaft due to the larger rear. But,it worked out to where the slip yoke sat exactly the same in the transfer case. I was happy! The plan was to shorten the Suburban shaft the lift and axles came out of. I just used a conversion u-joint for now,with plans to still shorten the proper driveshaft.
When I lifted my '72 K/20 Highlander 6" I had to lengthen the rear shaft 2". I have the same lift to go on to my '72 K2500 Sierra. Although,in theory,I should be able to take the shaft and have it shortened 2" in advance so it can go right together. But,that mean ole sucker called prior experience tells me shoulda doesn't always work. So I would wait until it's all in there,then measure the "actual" length. These are those big 4" shafts they used back then and I have another one laying around. I measured this one and it's exactly 2" longer than what's in the truck now! It's either from a '73-75-ish truck,when they still had the fat shaft,or maybe it's the difference between 4spd and automatic. But,I doubt it's the latter,cuz I've swapped from 4spd to auto before and never messed with either shaft. I believe any difference is made up in the t-case adapter. But,anyway,I may be able to just "pop" this driveshaft in there and be done with it! (we'll see)