[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I have used box tubing to make shock mount brackets. I would use a 3" hole saw, and cut the hole. Rough cut to a longer length. Use a dowel the size of the shocks mid travel to dial in the length.

For shocks you will want them on both sides of the axle to help control rotation. Which is why the shocks are on opposite ends. Although not needed. It does help to control the axle better. They should have a 15* lean away from the axle I believe. It helps with space, and giving the shock room to move. As the axle does move through a bit of a arc.

Once again not needed, but helps to dial in a setup.

Let's say you do every mistake in terms of ideal leaf spring shock set up. It's largely a moot point unless you are autocrossing or pushing the truck harder

For reference I have done about every mod on leaf springs cars imaginable. From relocating brackets, flatter springs, shorter springs, more leafs vs fewer, mono leafs, track bar, shorter front longer rear bias "like Mopar does on muscle cars" , leaf spring sliders, and of course longer shackles.

Out of the B.S. I did. A typical factory set up let's say is 100%. All the things I did made it 110% at the highest, and only really noticeable when pushed hard.

Driving down the street only a couple of things made a real difference.

Longer shackles/sliders would smooth out the spring rate, and give a better ride. Along with a more progressive or less binding of a feel.

Running the lightest leaf spring package possible along with not over doing a rim tire package. Always made the vehicle feel more nimble. Even around town