Quote:
Originally Posted by leegreen
<Are you saying you would add a ground wire from them to the frame or bedside?>
What I did for my own truck for grounds:
battery to block, block to frame, block to body
block to body goes to a bolt on firewall that goes through a sanded hole with star washer through firewall and provides an accessible ground point both inside and outside the cab.
From that ground point I have a ground wire run to rad support to another bolt. Each headlight and park/turn has a ground wire to that bolt. I soldered a ground wire to the bulb holder in each park light. Similar ground point and wires in rear.
All wires are soldered to the crimps and heat shrunk (some people will refute soldering connections as creating a stress point that will fail that but I have never had a wire I soldered fail).
All ground bolts / connections outside the cab have a coating of conductive grease.
This is overkill, but I have seen a lot of mystery electrical gremlins that were resolved by fixing ground issues, usually corroded connections.
The ignitions switch you show in post 12 looks like a GM column mount style, not a TF replacement dash switch. So I guess you have a newer column.
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Thank you for the info! So I think I have all your grounds except e haven't grounded the radiator support or the park lights.....my dad wired his semi years back so has been pretty vocal about me making sure I grind off paint and install my grounds to bare metal. But I didn't do anything to the paint when mounting the eyebrows with the parking lights as he wasn't there and I wasn't thinking. Could I attach just like a sheet metal screw or small bolt and make a hole.in the little square housing that holds the parking light if I did it? He's not the soldering type but I do have the tool.
And yes I am using a 70s gm van column as my original was for a manual and we have an automatic now.
And In the middle of the night I remembered why I can't use the original starter switch.....one of those we changed one thing and it changes 50 others......we went to power disk brakes and the frame mount booster wouldn't fit due to my larger 4l80e transmission so we had to go firewall mount and the brake pedal and booster have a bolt that is right behind the ignition. The original with its plug is too long to fit so the aftermarket plug was stubbier and worked because of how it is wired.