The ignition switch seems to be less than happy with me in the crank position so I replaced it before it stranded me.
This is the promised second half of the lock cylinder howto post.
The ignition lock cylinder has to be removed to replace the ignition switch so it was as good a time as any to do the rest.
I had the time to change all three lock cylinders out to the new keyed locks that I made up in late November early December 2018.
These are the old ones that I removed. These are not keyed the same as my new locks. I'll be selling these to someone that needs em.
Spare Tire Lift Lock:
The spare lock is just a plug in the spare tire lift tube. You remove the old one and insert the new one. Quick and easy.
Ignition:
You have to turn the ignition cylinder to the CRANK position to access the lock cylinder release plunger. You don't want to have the engine cranking while you're fiddling with the switch and cylinder so unhook the battery ground and set the parking brake.
You can see the spring loaded release plunger on the left hand top of the ignition cylinder (center lock cylinder) in the above picture.
The column shroud has to come off. It's easier to get it off and back on with the instrument panel bezel removed. The column shroud is hinged at the back end toward the dash so you have to carefully separate the shroud in the front. If you try to separate the shroud at the rear you'll break the hinge pins that hold the rear of the covers together.
Tilt the wheel down and tilt the top half of the shroud up toward the instrument panel so you can slide the top cover toward you while teasing the plastic hinge pins out of the hooks on the bottom half. The rubber dust seal around the shifter is slotted onto both halves of the cover and it got in the way so I pushed it inside the cover.
The shroud tucks slightly under the base of the steering wheel but it can be teased out without removing the steering wheel.
Something that was left out of the instructions from Standard Ignition...
The security and key-inserted switch wiring will get in the way of removing the ignition switch. The wiring is tucked under a hook on the bottom of the ignition switch toward the dash (see top left in the next picture). Unplug the connectors from the top and dash side on the outside of the lock cylinder and carefully slide the wires out from behind the hook on the ignition switch before you release and pull the switch out of it's cavity in the ignition lock housing. Be very careful of these fragile connectors as they will cause no end of trouble if you break them.
Follow the instructions that come with the switch. When you get to the point where you're supposed to put the lock cylinder back in install the new lock instead. My 2005 doesn't have chipped keys so I didn't have to mate the new key to the onboard security. I am unsure if this applies to all the T800 trucks or not.
This is the instruction sheet that came with my Standard Ignition switch...
Door Lock Cylinder:
The door was mildly entertaining. You have to remove the door card from the inside. Instructions are a few posts back in the post about speakers.
You'll need to carefully peel the plastic vapor liner off the inner door skin all the way to the bottom and forward to the inner door handle.
Remove the outside door handle.
You'll find three 10mm hex nuts on captive metric machine screws.
- The rearward nut is accessed with a short extension by removing the plug on the jamb area of the inner door skin.
- The centre bottom nut is accessible with an extension through a small hole in the door skin behind the door card.
- The third nut is only accessible by feel reaching up through the skin from the big opening at the bottom with a box-end wrench. In the below picture this is on the lower left... The door handle is upside down in the following picture. This nut is on top of the door handle assembly toward the hinges and toward the top of the door. If you have gear-wrenches I recommend using them on this nut.
The driver door lock cylinder is in the upper right corner of the above picture.
You remove the lock by first removing the pawl retainer. Note the small tang in the middle of the Right hand side of the gold lock pawl retainer. It's bent slightly down toward the pawl and fits into a hole in the pawl to keep the retainer from sliding off. It gets lifted up while sliding the retainer to the right til the odd shaped hole lines up with the back of the lock cylinder and both the retainer and pawl can slide off.
The lock itself is held in the door handle with a wire spring clip. You can see one of the upturned ends of the spring clip that fits in a groove in the plastic door handle. Once the spring clip is removed you can push the lock through and out from the outside surface of the handle. It's a snug fit but I didn't have to beat on it. I pushed firmly with a wood dowel and it slid right through.
Installation is the reverse.
I sprayed the plastic vapor shield with adhesive spray and stuck it back in place.
I lubed all the locks with spray Lithium grease and a straw and they all seem to work as well as the old ones.