[Marv D]

One simple thought here...... With forced induction your choice of head opens exponentially. It doesn't take a 'great' head when your force feeding it. Especially not at street levels.

Myself I'd do turbo over blower ANY DAY on the street. Probably more expensive in the long run, but a lot more pump gas / street friendly. I think the 'do it ONCE do it RIGHT' factor ought to be included in your budget.

If you spend less than $2500 on a small blower, intake and carbs and linkage to work on the setup I'll be absolutely AMAZED. Even with buying used / evilbay (which is a bad idea with a blower) I don't think you can get out that much cheaper.

Turbo's , wastgate, intercooler, plumbing, blowthrough carb / injection... it cost a pretty penny with a turbo. BUT,, 99% of it is transferable to another vehicle of any form, make or model.

And ... I have a good friend in Canada that drives 60 miles to the strip. Pulls a set of slicks out of the trunk, switches to a small 1 gallon cell with C16 fuel, clicks off high 8's at 160+ on the drag strip with a little twin turbo 421" sbc, with a set of the early AFR 227's..... and drives the 60 miles home! The 950-1000HP it takes to do that would NOT be a street friendly blower motor. I know your not looking for that kind of power, but it demonstrates the kind of street friendly thrills turbo's can offer. even SMALL turbos without all the high end trinkets offer phenomenal pump gas power. And spool time isn't the big issue it used to be. Sure a blower is instant, mat the gas and boost is there at 1000rpm or 8000rpm, blowers don't care. But if you have an instant 8psi boost, you have an instant shock load to the tire,, and is your suspension really up to it????? Turbo's are much more traction friendly.

Which,, all that brings me to Roger rule 1 again (I know, ya all get sick of hearing it) but....

Only a rich man can afford to buy cheap parts, because only a rich man can afford to replace them over and over again"

is a SMALL blower really going to satisfy the urge here??? How long before it doesn't???
Do it once, do it right.


As far as power level with a 2bolt... when was the last time you heard of a crank falling out of a SBC??? At around 500HP in a 100% stock block, stock iron main cap, stock bolt configuration, the main caps start walking around and signs of fretting is evident in the register. Most stock rods will give up LONG before the block and 2bolt main caps do.
These days buying billet main caps, main girdles, drilling for splayed mains, adding tweaks and tricks to a 40-60 year old casting that was NEVER RATED FOR ANYTHING OVER 370HP,, is foolishness. If your worried about the block, don't spend good money throwing band-aids at a inferior piece.