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dsraven · 12-15-2022, 07:15 PM

I use:
-a welding beany every time I work on something. usually just the plain beanie with no brim unless I am welding under something where sparks may fall down the back of my neck. it is important to have one that fits but isn't loose so it stays on the head when you take your face shield or helmet off. also, the bottom edge fits over the top of the ear so sparks don't lodge between your ear and scalp. I grew right through my hair so there is no feelers up there to let me know when I am close to something. the beanie helps a bit but mostly keeps the blood from running down my face so I can get to the bathroom and wash up before the wife catches me in the act. haha did I mention how the skin gets thinner when the hair goes away?
-I have a good set of stand alone muffs that work well if just using safety glasses but they don't fit well with a face shield usually. the set I use has a strap so the muffs can have the connecting band slung low behind the head with the thin fabric band slung over the top of the head and this keeps the muffs in place but allows the face shield headband to room to fit.
I have a hard hat with the attached muffs that pull down and a swing up/down face shield. I still wear safety glasses under any face shield as I have learned the hard way that grindings shoot everywhere and sometimes bounce off something, like my chest, and fly up behind the shield.
I have a set of those foam ear plugs with the plastic connector band to apply some pressure to help them seal against the ear canal, I use these a lot for general use in the shop and they just hang around the neck when not needed but are right there when you need them. for the loud stuff I use the foam earplugs that roll up and get inserted into the canal and then muffs over that.
-a good quality face shield is a must. something with a teardrop shape is good as it has a little more coverage below the chin where a lot of debris can enter after it has bounced off your chest and it also has a little eyebrow area above the face to stop a little more stuff from falling through. I use the honeywell uvex bionic shield and have found it the best so far. the old fibre metal ones are ok but allow a lot of stuff to get past, I find, even with the clear shield that has a slight teardrop shape. safety glasses under the shield are a must and should probably be worn all the time in the shop. investing in a decent pair that can be wiped without scratching easy, or a box of cheaper style ones, would be cheaper in the long run than an eye injury (or worse) would be. I also have a set of over the glasses style goggles that I wear when grinding or working in a tight spot. below are few links for some ideas.
https://sps.honeywell.com/us/en/prod...safety-goggles
https://sps.honeywell.com/ca/en/prod...ds/uvex-bionic
https://sps.honeywell.com/us/en/prod...n/face-shields
https://www.globalindustrial.ca/p/qu...-nrr-25-436711
https://ecat.eleknet.com/PIM_Docs/Do...F/13542636.pdf
-good welding gloves that fit well are a must. I use the tig welding gloves a lot because they allow a little more dexterity. they are thinner though, and have allowed shards from a shattered zip disc to penetrate and become part of my hand now. consequently I use the lennox metalmax zip discs now and find they last a long time if you use them correctly and they also don't change diameter as they wear like the older style zip discs.
-a good respirator that fits under the face shield or welding mask is a must as well. just clean a welding helmet once and you will see what you have been breathing if you weld without a respirator. welding supply places sell low profile respirators that fit under the helmet and usually that means they also fit under a face shield. they usually come in a couple of different sizes so a test fit is good before using one to ensure you get a seal. some are silicone rubber so they flex better that some other compounds, especially if using in the cold areas. currently I am using the miller half mask.
https://weldingdepot.ca/miller-lpr-1...ller-electric/
-I use a 3m full face shield with respirator filters when needed
https://www.nhsmediastore.com/3m6800-2097.aspx
-I have a breathing air compressor for painting. it sits outside and upwind when I am painting or priming something. sometimes you can find a used one in the classified ads for a decent price. they can be spendy to but new but think of what the costs would be for lung problems and a shortened life due to complications. painting isn't just laquer fumes anymore, it is isocyanates and other bad things. you gotta be carefull. you could be weathering the side effects long after the vehicle has been finished, driven and sold.
https://pksafety.com/blog/isocyanates
https://keylinesafety.com/blogs/heal...ed-air-blowers
-a pair of coveralls that are flame resistant
https://www.grainger.com/product/CAR...overall-19RH96
-a welders apron, boot covers, arm sleeves or a welders coat. some come as a set some aprons also have legs attached. some coats are only the top half. you only get hot welding slag drop into the tongue of your boot once, then you get your boots tied up and/or a set of boot covers.
https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/p...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Weldi.../dp/B08BLNMCMJ
https://www.watsongloves.com/products/4-welders-jacket/
it goes without saying that you should weld in a somewhat ventilated area as the smoke isn't just smoke and has other bad stuff in it. stop welding and look up sometimes to see how smokey it is. also, when grinding, there is a lot of metal and dust from the grinding wheel that stays airborne for while. you will notice it on a sunny day when you are simply sweeping up the shop.

12-15-2022, 07:15 PM	#14
dsraven Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: calgary alberta Posts: 7,830	Re: Safety I use: -a welding beany every time I work on something. usually just the plain beanie with no brim unless I am welding under something where sparks may fall down the back of my neck. it is important to have one that fits but isn't loose so it stays on the head when you take your face shield or helmet off. also, the bottom edge fits over the top of the ear so sparks don't lodge between your ear and scalp. I grew right through my hair so there is no feelers up there to let me know when I am close to something. the beanie helps a bit but mostly keeps the blood from running down my face so I can get to the bathroom and wash up before the wife catches me in the act. haha did I mention how the skin gets thinner when the hair goes away? -I have a good set of stand alone muffs that work well if just using safety glasses but they don't fit well with a face shield usually. the set I use has a strap so the muffs can have the connecting band slung low behind the head with the thin fabric band slung over the top of the head and this keeps the muffs in place but allows the face shield headband to room to fit. I have a hard hat with the attached muffs that pull down and a swing up/down face shield. I still wear safety glasses under any face shield as I have learned the hard way that grindings shoot everywhere and sometimes bounce off something, like my chest, and fly up behind the shield. I have a set of those foam ear plugs with the plastic connector band to apply some pressure to help them seal against the ear canal, I use these a lot for general use in the shop and they just hang around the neck when not needed but are right there when you need them. for the loud stuff I use the foam earplugs that roll up and get inserted into the canal and then muffs over that. -a good quality face shield is a must. something with a teardrop shape is good as it has a little more coverage below the chin where a lot of debris can enter after it has bounced off your chest and it also has a little eyebrow area above the face to stop a little more stuff from falling through. I use the honeywell uvex bionic shield and have found it the best so far. the old fibre metal ones are ok but allow a lot of stuff to get past, I find, even with the clear shield that has a slight teardrop shape. safety glasses under the shield are a must and should probably be worn all the time in the shop. investing in a decent pair that can be wiped without scratching easy, or a box of cheaper style ones, would be cheaper in the long run than an eye injury (or worse) would be. I also have a set of over the glasses style goggles that I wear when grinding or working in a tight spot. below are few links for some ideas. https://sps.honeywell.com/us/en/prod...safety-goggles https://sps.honeywell.com/ca/en/prod...ds/uvex-bionic https://sps.honeywell.com/us/en/prod...n/face-shields https://www.globalindustrial.ca/p/qu...-nrr-25-436711 https://ecat.eleknet.com/PIM_Docs/Do...F/13542636.pdf -good welding gloves that fit well are a must. I use the tig welding gloves a lot because they allow a little more dexterity. they are thinner though, and have allowed shards from a shattered zip disc to penetrate and become part of my hand now. consequently I use the lennox metalmax zip discs now and find they last a long time if you use them correctly and they also don't change diameter as they wear like the older style zip discs. -a good respirator that fits under the face shield or welding mask is a must as well. just clean a welding helmet once and you will see what you have been breathing if you weld without a respirator. welding supply places sell low profile respirators that fit under the helmet and usually that means they also fit under a face shield. they usually come in a couple of different sizes so a test fit is good before using one to ensure you get a seal. some are silicone rubber so they flex better that some other compounds, especially if using in the cold areas. currently I am using the miller half mask. https://weldingdepot.ca/miller-lpr-1...ller-electric/ -I use a 3m full face shield with respirator filters when needed https://www.nhsmediastore.com/3m6800-2097.aspx -I have a breathing air compressor for painting. it sits outside and upwind when I am painting or priming something. sometimes you can find a used one in the classified ads for a decent price. they can be spendy to but new but think of what the costs would be for lung problems and a shortened life due to complications. painting isn't just laquer fumes anymore, it is isocyanates and other bad things. you gotta be carefull. you could be weathering the side effects long after the vehicle has been finished, driven and sold. https://pksafety.com/blog/isocyanates https://keylinesafety.com/blogs/heal...ed-air-blowers -a pair of coveralls that are flame resistant https://www.grainger.com/product/CAR...overall-19RH96 -a welders apron, boot covers, arm sleeves or a welders coat. some come as a set some aprons also have legs attached. some coats are only the top half. you only get hot welding slag drop into the tongue of your boot once, then you get your boots tied up and/or a set of boot covers. https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/p...B&gclsrc=aw.ds https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Weldi.../dp/B08BLNMCMJ https://www.watsongloves.com/products/4-welders-jacket/ it goes without saying that you should weld in a somewhat ventilated area as the smoke isn't just smoke and has other bad stuff in it. stop welding and look up sometimes to see how smokey it is. also, when grinding, there is a lot of metal and dust from the grinding wheel that stays airborne for while. you will notice it on a sunny day when you are simply sweeping up the shop.