Quote:
Originally Posted by joedoh
H3 bulbs dont HAVE a separate ground. I turned on the headlights and disconnected the grounds and sure enough, they stayed on. a couple screws confirm my suspicion.
so that means the "plastic" housing on these headlights isnt plastic at all.
nope, aluminum. there was the short I was chasing, I was pushing -14.4vdc alternator voltage back through the -11vdc BCM circuit. nice.
I will pick up some plastic screws tomorrow to isolate the h3 "ground" from the body ground. But for now I can drive the **** out of it any time day or night. |
plastic screws did not reliably isolate the ground, so I was stuck for a minute. I hopped on google and found out there was a type of H3 bulb called an H3C with two terminals, but it did not tell me if the base ground was isolated from the bulb ground. I found an ebay auction for some H3C for 13 bucks buy-it-now and free shipping, not a lot to risk, but WAIT, the auction happened to be ending in 3 minutes, and they were only $9.99 if you were the lucky bidder and no one else bid. The guy had multiple auctions so the only thing I had to lose was 3 minutes, but I did not lose. 10 bucks and a week later:
they showed up today, note the two terminals instead of the single terminal of the H3
so I had to find out if one of the terminals was common to the base...
Nope! freaking sweet. Its raining in my garage but I will give them a shot in a couple days. If it works, I will order some that arent hyper racer blue.
Also, one of the taillight housings has a short now. Bowtie Bits is local and has new complete housings with bulbs and lenses for 35 ea, or LED taillights with wired sockets for 58 pr. I am going to buy two new housings so I dont have to worry about it later, so thats 70 bucks, or save 12 bucks on the LED. I dont know if the LED type would look too modern on the truck.... I saw this truck in the LED thread and thats what started me thinking.
