The different pivot block than what is shown in the pictures was done from a manufacturing perspective to keep costs under control. I simply do not have time to mock up another assemble just for pictures.
The spacer between the master and the booster bracket serves as 2 purposes. 1) It increases the clearance for the wire harness that is beside the clutch master. 2) It eliminates the need to shorten the clutch master pushrod.
The configuration of the clutch linkage assembly is designed to work as it is in the pictures. This allows full clutch pedal stroke without bottoming out the clutch master. What you have done just reversed that feature. The clutch master will bottom out before the clutch pedal. This could very likely damage the clutch master.
As for the bolt length. You are using the wrong bolt. As Heater63 stated, the top bolt must be installed from inside the cab, with the nut on the engine side of the firewall.
Quote:
Originally Posted by J1MMY
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1310359367
I thought I'd feed this back publicly, not to find fault with the product but in case anyone else has found a similar issue.
On the kit you sent out to me the block that is fixed through the lower clutch cylinder bolt is different - see pic below. I'm guessing that this is simply product refinement 
The issue that I have is that using the format as set out in your guidance pics the plunger rod for the clutch is pulled downwards instead of straight outwards.
If I alter the format as shown in the pic below then the plunger rod sits straight and the rod from the clutch pedal pivots on the middle hole of the plate that unifies all three rods. To make that work, the plate has to be filed.
Also, the extra cut plate that sandwiches between the clutch cylinder and the firewall renders the bolts too short. Is this plate simply for reinforcement or to help with pedal travel? See pic below:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heater63
Capt will answer for himself, but if this helps speed you along...run with it....on the pushrod, it is not how level it starts, its that it needs to be level at full insertion.
On the top bolt, yes, same thing here, I just used and turned around a slightly longer bolt, inserted it from inside the cab, and put the nut on the outside as it was too long to insert from the master side and clear the pressure line fitting.
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