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Originally Posted by MAC71Cheyenne
I've been reading along and gaining insight along the way. When it warms up a bit I am going to apply all the tidbits to the pumpkin coach.
As it stands, there is no separate vac fitting on the manifold. Take care of that, check the weights, and make some adjustments and I'm betting I will have better idle, up the gas mileage a hair, and a touch more umph. As it stands the mileage is around 11-12 and idle won't drop below 900 rpm even with idle screw lightly turned to seat. From last drop to seat is 1n1/2 turns and has no effect. Runs down the road at 20 mph just on idle. Not cool on snowy roads....
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Since you have an Edelbrock carb, there's a few things you have to set up on it first. Not sure why, but Edelbrock doesn't advertise it very well. First thing, Edelbrocks don't like fuel pressure higher than 6psi, or they flood. They recommend a pressure regulator set to 5.5 psi, or their fuel pump. Second, setting the floats to spec is very important because, once again, it can make the carb flood. They're never right out of the box due to shipping and handling. Third, the transition slots need to be squared or it will never run well. Square them, and don't touch the idle speed screw again. Doing this will get rid of your 900 rpm idle. Fourth, you need to buy a calibration kit for your model carb so you can install the step-up springs that work with your manifold vacuum level to further eliminate hesitations and the like. Once the above is completed, get it running and set your total timing to 36 btdc. Then restrict your vacuum advance to around 10 degrees and connect it to manifold vacuum. If you don't connect it to manifold vacuum, the rpms will be lower and you'll have to adjust the idle up, which in turn, screws up the transition slots again. If your idle mixture screws have no effect, you need to open up the carb and clean it out real well. Probably a good time to rebuild it as well if it's old. I hope this helps.