The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network - View Single Post - 47-55.1 '50 3600 re-do. Shortening things up!

dsraven · 01-17-2021, 12:13 AM

I was going to point out the panhard angle as well. it should be as parallel to the ground as possible at ride height to keep the axle location, side to side, in the middle of the travel. there will always be some side to side because the panhard travels in an arc. shorter panhard means more side to side movement. that's why newer trucks with panhard bars have long bars. watts link will also take up some space you may need for exhaust if you plan a rear outlet. since you have the complete panhard rod and brackets it would be simple enough to make the rod longer or purchase a longer rod locally and make the panhard longer. I have used a length of square tubing that is too large for the job, cut a top corner out of it the size of the cross section of the frame, this is so it can be mounted vertically on the frame and go up the outside of the frame, for better stability, and also fit up tight under the frame at the bottom of the cut out to allow a longer weld. then taper the section that hangs below the frame so it is physically smaller and more appealing to the eye but becomes the mount for the rod at the frame end. mount the rod up high on the axle and the frame mount won't need to hang down as far to be level with the axle end at ride height. space the axle end away from the axle some so the rod can pass by the axle cover without contact. some will put the rod at an angle to help with this issue. that would mean the rod ends would need to be welded on an angle so they don't bind when the suspension moves.
when welding brackets on the axle ensure to do it in steps so the axle tubes don't get distorted from the heat/shrink effects of the welding. the shop you use will/should know that.
for the wiring components they could be placed on a tray under the seat with cabinet drawer sliders and a small gas strut to keep them in place and to make access easy if the need arises. a sheet of plastic would take a screw easily, without the screw protruding through to snag on carpet etc, with no worry of shorting or rattling like tin would.

01-17-2021, 12:13 AM	#50
dsraven Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: calgary alberta Posts: 7,835	Re: '50 3600 re-do. Shortening things up! I was going to point out the panhard angle as well. it should be as parallel to the ground as possible at ride height to keep the axle location, side to side, in the middle of the travel. there will always be some side to side because the panhard travels in an arc. shorter panhard means more side to side movement. that's why newer trucks with panhard bars have long bars. watts link will also take up some space you may need for exhaust if you plan a rear outlet. since you have the complete panhard rod and brackets it would be simple enough to make the rod longer or purchase a longer rod locally and make the panhard longer. I have used a length of square tubing that is too large for the job, cut a top corner out of it the size of the cross section of the frame, this is so it can be mounted vertically on the frame and go up the outside of the frame, for better stability, and also fit up tight under the frame at the bottom of the cut out to allow a longer weld. then taper the section that hangs below the frame so it is physically smaller and more appealing to the eye but becomes the mount for the rod at the frame end. mount the rod up high on the axle and the frame mount won't need to hang down as far to be level with the axle end at ride height. space the axle end away from the axle some so the rod can pass by the axle cover without contact. some will put the rod at an angle to help with this issue. that would mean the rod ends would need to be welded on an angle so they don't bind when the suspension moves. when welding brackets on the axle ensure to do it in steps so the axle tubes don't get distorted from the heat/shrink effects of the welding. the shop you use will/should know that. for the wiring components they could be placed on a tray under the seat with cabinet drawer sliders and a small gas strut to keep them in place and to make access easy if the need arises. a sheet of plastic would take a screw easily, without the screw protruding through to snag on carpet etc, with no worry of shorting or rattling like tin would.