Yep, left head is cracked...baby poo on underside of valve cover. Right side is just oil and 185k mile crude. I think I will replace both heads with stock 862 or 709's. And, since the lifters ticked a few seconds on cold start, I will replace all lifters while the heads are off. At least the knock sensors and water pump are new(ish).
Going to stop short of a full rebuild...unless
And, man was that engine dirty!