[TBONE1964]

Originally Posted by Shotgunn

I may need therapy before this task is accomplished...
Gauge is at 3 o'clock position..
new tank/sending unit/ wires go all they way into the cab..proper ground.(LMC under bed tank)
pull the brown wire clip out of the fuse block and it reads 92 ohms with a full tank of gas. plug the clip back into the fuse block an check it while plugged in..32 ohms..back feed? I have 12.6 volts at the #3 on the plug with the key on. the battery and temperature gauge is disconnected. after market gauges installed oil/volts/temp.

Lets try and make it simple.

First using a test light, check for power right at the fuel gauge with the key in the run position. Is there power at the gauge? Or prefered use a meter and see what the actual voltage is. It should be 12.6 or so with just key on and engine not running. if you have 12.6 that means the circuit board is OK.

If you do not have 12.6, check the gauge fuse. The #3 pink wire at the connector is the gauge power and it powers both the fuel gauge and temp gaughe. If the circuit board touchs ground when the key is on, that will blow the fuse. You need to protect that terminal on the circuit board or use a stock temp gauge and connect it as designed. Not sure this is an issue but you should check.

You can also run a wire from the sending unit to the the back of the gauge. This will by pass the path of the tan wire. If this makes the fuel gauge work, the is a problem between the signal terminal on the gauge and the terminal at the sender for the signal wire.

Let me know if this helps you. It is easy to check your tank and sending unit for ground. Run a test light from the positive side of your battery and touch it to the sending unit. If test light lights, you have good ground at sending unit.

Tom