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HAULIN' IT · 05-22-2021, 03:18 PM

There are some basic things that need to be "in place" to have a good working & proper shock set-up. The last picture, Is that with weight on the suspension? "Up on the lift" could be either depending on what type of lift you have. The top & bottom "pins" need to be parallel as viewed in your last photo with the weight on the tires...clearly they are not. This is part of what is making them walk, however there should be a "stop" of some sort to keep them in place. A slice of tube bigger than the one the shock is slid on, a washer welded on, something.
My thoughts are that some things weren't welded in the correct places (the upper shock mount tube so the stud would be vertical/90* to the shock for sure) & maybe the lower brackets on the rear end housing (that depends on where the rest of the parts are falling & pinion angle).
Im suspecting that the frame/suspension work was installed with little forethought as to ride height & weight being added as the project progressed. People see all of the adjustments (holes, spanner threads, ect) & figure they'll work it out later, it doesnt really go that way.
In your first photos, the lower pin is angled upward & in the last picture its aiming downward (due to your pinion angle adjustment)...somewhere in the middle will be the closest you can get without a cutting tool & welder. That may not be the happy spot for the rest of the suspension/driveshaft, but that would be better for the shocks.
My opinion, The 4 link rod ends (or leaf spring for that matter) pivot around the bolts parallel to the rear end housing...so the shock mounts should be also. Look at a motorcycle, a '56 chevy truck, a '66, '76, '86, '96...you get the idea.
My take, turn the shock a quarter turn & weld 4 tabs on the upper shock tube to locate them with a through-bolt going the "correct" way. A bracket made to go in some of the lower holes doing the same thing. This way, you are not altering the ideal pinion angle to make up for some other out of place item. I made a set just like I described for a friends car with the same set-up. It was off-set top to bottom compared to the holes so it could go the the top two holes or the bottom, or flipped over & be even lower. Lorne

05-22-2021, 03:18 PM	#8
HAULIN' IT Registered User Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Beaver Falls, Pa Posts: 165	Re: Need help with coilover mounts There are some basic things that need to be "in place" to have a good working & proper shock set-up. The last picture, Is that with weight on the suspension? "Up on the lift" could be either depending on what type of lift you have. The top & bottom "pins" need to be parallel as viewed in your last photo with the weight on the tires...clearly they are not. This is part of what is making them walk, however there should be a "stop" of some sort to keep them in place. A slice of tube bigger than the one the shock is slid on, a washer welded on, something. My thoughts are that some things weren't welded in the correct places (the upper shock mount tube so the stud would be vertical/90* to the shock for sure) & maybe the lower brackets on the rear end housing (that depends on where the rest of the parts are falling & pinion angle). Im suspecting that the frame/suspension work was installed with little forethought as to ride height & weight being added as the project progressed. People see all of the adjustments (holes, spanner threads, ect) & figure they'll work it out later, it doesnt really go that way. In your first photos, the lower pin is angled upward & in the last picture its aiming downward (due to your pinion angle adjustment)...somewhere in the middle will be the closest you can get without a cutting tool & welder. That may not be the happy spot for the rest of the suspension/driveshaft, but that would be better for the shocks. My opinion, The 4 link rod ends (or leaf spring for that matter) pivot around the bolts parallel to the rear end housing...so the shock mounts should be also. Look at a motorcycle, a '56 chevy truck, a '66, '76, '86, '96...you get the idea. My take, turn the shock a quarter turn & weld 4 tabs on the upper shock tube to locate them with a through-bolt going the "correct" way. A bracket made to go in some of the lower holes doing the same thing. This way, you are not altering the ideal pinion angle to make up for some other out of place item. I made a set just like I described for a friends car with the same set-up. It was off-set top to bottom compared to the holes so it could go the the top two holes or the bottom, or flipped over & be even lower. Lorne