[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I have done it to a slightly dropped C20 rclb to make it C10 height.

It works very well, but will lack a little snappiness if you will since the body has little more leverage to roll.

On my truck I ran both 255/60R17 front with 275/60r17 rear, and 265/70r16 front with 285/70R16 rear. The 16's were better in some ways since I used the pyo rims which were 18 pounds vs 45 for the 17" steel rims.

Either way it was a great truck to bomb dirt roads, and drift it around corners. At one point it had a 350 Vortec with a 95 LT1 cam, and springs. Along with full bolt on. A strong 300hp/400tq, and easily revible to 6000rpm. It would freak people out a Grandpa's truck could hook a drift, and hold it.

Like any combo for handling quality shocks, and tires go a long way first. My preference is for KYB's, but Bilstiens are better if you have the money.

Then next is a put the engine on a diet, and it needs to be able to pull freely to 5500-6000 rpm easily. Which is a basic cam with nearly stock idle quality. This way it doesn't lay over to much. 454's are great, but require more work for the twisties.

You don't have to get stupid with weight loss, but planning will make it easier to avoid adding to much weight.

Don't forget to get a good steering wheel, and power steering box/pump combo. If it don't feel right in your hand. It will be harder to push.

I never did the ball joint mod you speak of. I just made my A arms level when I modified the cross member like a Gulstrand mod. Plus move the lower A arm forward 1 inch in relation to the upper.

As for the front bar I have ran both 1 and 1 1/4 inch, and liked both alot.

Personally myself I prefer no rear bar due to the way I drive. I like to throttle oversteer. They make the rear end feel less lively to me, and some 60's Camaro trans-am racers ran with out them too. It is a personal preference that you need to decide on, but if you tow alot. They are a great mod