[markeb01]

First a correction. I must have been asleep, the ends of the cord need to be at the bottom center of the glass, not the top, since the bottom middle will be seated first.

On the lubrication question, I've changed quite a few windshields, and generally apply it to the gasket first since it will also soak into the string/rope and hold quite a bit. If generous enough it drips all over the pinchweld anyway. You can always add more during the install if needed.

When I lived in Idaho the windshield on my 1960 needed to be replaced three times. One shop used sealer in the glass channel, and that windshield leaked (a lot). The other two went in without any sealer and never leaked a drop. Not sure if it's the luck of the draw, how well the glass and gasket fit, or how well the labor got the windshield centered and completely seated.

The factory shop manual (for 1960) apparently loved sealer and states:

3. Apply a 3/16" x 1/2" ribbon of medium bodied sealer at the base of the pinchweld flange around the entire perimeter of the opening.

6. Seal the outside lip of the rubber channel to the glass with a minimum strip of 1/32 thickness weatherstrip adhesive between glass and lip around perimeter of glass.

7. Apply a 1/8" x 1/4" ribbon of medium bodied sealer to the flat of the windshield opening rabbel along the entire length of the pillar side and extending for approximately 6 inches beyond the upper and lower corners. (Again this is for a 1960).

8. Remove all excess sealer and adhesive with mineral spirits.

Since I've had better luck with no sealer, I'd be inclined to not use any.

It's difficult to know which advice is good and what isn't unless you can see the results of their work (even if you're doing the install yourself). The outfit that installed my leaky windshield also scratched my fender extensions, hood, and vent panel. The only reason I went with them was because they were billed as street rod specialists, the owner drove a 34 Ford, and claimed my truck would be treated like one of their own!