Quote:
Originally Posted by rockyrivermark
My 2 cents
1. I’ve seen more than one Brand new out do the box thermostats be bad.
2. Make sure electric fans are ran off a relay with heavy gauge wire going to the fan motors. If wiring is undersized fans won’t run at needed rpm
3. Head gasket failure could cause overheating. Make sure no water in oil or coming out tailpipe.
4. Back flush cooling system. Cleaner additive then flush. Prestone sells a nice kit with hose adapter and cleaner additive.
5. Get cheap IR gun to verify actual temp at thermostat hosing.
6. Both upper and lower rad hoses hot? Restriction?
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Thanks
1. Replaced the thermostat with a high flow model and bench tested that new one today - it works. I had a cheap motorad normal 180 which I’ve not bench tested yet.
2. It’s in a relay and spent the extra $$ to get cold case’s wiring kit to make sure I had everything right (sure, made in china, yes the wires feel cheap), it has full power and correct amperage going to it. Currenty running both fans on on 190F sender
3. Yeah, I’m kinda worried about that - will see if it keeps overheating tomorrow after all of today’s work. I’ve had condensation coming out of the tailpipe at startup since I bought the truck. If it overheats tomorrow I’m going to get one of those fluid tests for exhaust gasses in the coolant.
4. I flushed it, new prestone coolant, used that funnel thing that screws into the rad. Filled the block first, then the rad, ran it with the funnel in the rad , whacking the throttle, until no more bubbles. I did get some steam coming off the top of the coolant in the funnel - that just because it’s not under pressure right?
5. I’m going to use an IR gun tmrw. Here’s a wrinkle: the fan sender is 190F, with the fans on (presumably engine coolant 190F), new bosch guage read 160F at the block. Only got up to 170F on the guage. Burped it really well with that radiator funnel contraption, and corrected the heater hose routing.