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Old 07-19-2022, 07:06 PM   #205
omodified
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Race City U.S.A.
Posts: 1,005
Re: "Midnight Rider" 1970 C10 SWB Fleetside

Time to install the rear brake kit. Everything is suppose to be a direct fit for the truck 12 bolt rear end. Since everything fit during the mock up, I'm not really expecting any problems.

In order to install this kit, you have to remove the axles first. Good thing the rear end cover wasn't sealed yet. Once the axle was out, I could install the backing plate. What I really like about this kit is that it comes with an internal parking brake on either side. This is a way better option for me than the D52 kit, since that kit has no parking brake at all. I had already replaced the original backing plate hardware with grade 8 stuff and had it nickel plated. I used these to secure the backing plates to the rear end flange. The GM assembly manual says to torque these to 35lb/ft.













Reinstall axle and c-clips.





Next, install the caliper mounting brackets to the backing plates. Wilwood supplied nice bolts for this but they come in a raw finish that didn't quite go with my theme. So these bolts got replaced with stainless ones. Wilwood recommends using red Loctite 271 and torqueing these bolts to 25lb/ft.











Next step, installing the rotor. This step should have been easier. There were a few issues that made it difficult. For one thing, I guess I have bastard axles. These axles were advertised by Moser as being for a 4wd. They argued with me that the 2wd trucks are 5 lug. So, I went ahead with the 4wd 6 lug axles, which ended up getting me a 78mm center hub diameter. Well, the 6 lug diameter should be 90mm which is what my wheel center bore and the rotor center registration both are. Wilwood does offer some registration reducer rings, but they didn't have the size I needed. I contemplated making my own, but I found US Wheel Adapters on the internet and they do custom orders from aluminum or ABS plastic. So, I ordered a set of 90mm>78mm plastic rings with no flange. I ended up using the lathe to take another millimeter off the front half of the outer diameter to compensate for the powder coating on my wheels. The nice thing these wheels is the center bore is designed in a way the it captures the hub rings and they wont be able to walk around. In the end, these rings saved my butt and I have the confidence in knowing that everything will be true without vibration.

The other issue I had was the brake shoes rubbing the inside of the drum. The LR rotor went on without any issues and would spin freely. The RR however, would barely spin before it would just grab and lock up. I called Wilwood and they suggested that I adjust the shoes outward until the adjustment wheel won't turn anymore. Then pull on the ebrake lever a few times and this is suppose to align the shoes to the drum. Well, that did not work. I ended up using 220 grit and sanding the black electro coating off of the drums where the shoes will grab. This helped quite a bit but there was still some rubbing. Then, I noticed witness marks at the bottom of both shoes. So, I sanded those spots down and re-checked for rubbing. I sanded and re-checked six times until I had good clearance. All clear now.

















Next up is installing the calipers. Again, Wilwood supplied nice raw mouting bolts. I substituted those for stainless. Using the supplied shims, I made sure the caliper was centered on the rotor. Then I torqued the mounting bolts to Wilwood specs (40lb/ft) along with using red Loctite.











Close to finishing up here, but this thing is never going to stop without some brake pads. Installing them is super easy. No messy brake quiet goo. Just drop in place, secure and you're finished.











I already know the wheels fit, but I wanted to show how much clearance there is here. I'm super excited that this worked out. The look is really clean and most importantly, I still have my wheels!!!



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