Warped Water Pump Pulley

[BRL]

A few years back my SBC long water pump started leaking so I replaced it with a rebuilt one, at the same time I noticed that when I removed the original water pump pulley it had a chip missing by one of the holes.
So I replaced the pulley with a fancy chrome aftermarket one.
When everything was put back together and I started the engine the pulley wobbled and that caused an intermittent chirping sound.
I assumed it was the inexpensive water pump flange so I replaced the water pump with a better quality newly manufactured one.
The dang pulley still wobbled so that was the problem all along.
Just installed a new painted steel replacement pulley and that thing wobbles.
I wonder how many junk steel water pump pulleys are out there.

[Accelo]

Measure the run-out with a dial indicator.
You can buy one for not a lot of money.

The issue could be as simple as the pain on the flange?
Maybe aftermarket China pulleys?
As customers, you may be aware, we are also quality control.
Why I love this forum, helps steer me from the really bad stuff.

I feel your frustration. Take a day off from this project, if you can.
Get some measurements and this forum will do our best to get you going again.

[BRL]

I appreciate the reply.
The newer pully doesn't seem to be as far off as the chrome one and I think as long as I sand the groove to rough it up a bit and maybe rough up the belt a little it will eliminate that annoying chirping/squeaking sound, which is what was driving me nuts to begin with.
It's really not bad enough for the belt to jump off the pulleys or anything like that, I just can't believe that two off-the-shelf brand new pulleys aren't concentric. (or whatever you would call it)
Never saw that in a genuine AC Delco pulley.
A neighbor offered me a free billet aluminum pulley (nice of him) but those look like they were designed with separate electric fan(s) in mind as they look like they use tapered head mounting bolts like maybe a wood screw would have.

Notice the cool camel hump heads with accessory holes ?
They are the 1.94/1.50 but have smaller intake runners for higher mixture velocity at lower RPM and go great with my 3:08 rear gears.
Hardened valve seats for unleaded too.

[BRL]

When I attempt to 'edit to add' my phone won't let me scroll down on the script for some reason but I just wanted to agree that you guys are always a great help on this forum.

[BRL]

Originally Posted by Accelo

...I feel your frustration. Take a day off from this project, if you can.

Yep, again I do appreciate your help, that's just what I need to do.

So to add insult to injury, I decided to replace the lower radiator hose while I was losing this battle anyway and the darn thing wants to kink.
I somehow managed to remove the old one without just cutting it off in frustration so I'll bring that to the parts store to use as a template.

The only positive thing to come out of this whole disaster is that if you look under the hose by the fuel pump you'll notice a fuel line that I probably put on there when I replaced my inline 6 around 25 years ago and totally forgot existed.

Hopefully I be able to replace that without burning the truck to the ground.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by BRL

Yep, again I do appreciate your help, that's just what I need to do.

So to add insult to injury, I decided to replace the lower radiator hose while I was losing this battle anyway and the darn thing wants to kink.
I somehow managed to remove the old one without just cutting it off in frustration so I'll bring that to the parts store to use as a template.

The only positive thing to come out of this whole disaster is that if you look under the hose by the fuel pump you'll notice a fuel line that I probably put on there when I replaced my inline 6 around 25 years ago and totally forgot existed.

Hopefully I be able to replace that without burning the truck to the ground.

You may need to put a radiator hose spring inside the lower hose to keep it from collapsing.....
.

[BRL]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

You may need to put a radiator hose spring inside the lower hose to keep it from collapsing.....
.

Thanks for the suggestion LockDoc.

Yea I gave that a try, had to try the skinnier spring from the used upper radiator hose so it would fit and the new lower hose still collapsed.
I'll just bring that old used lower radiator hose to the parts store and attempt to match them up.

Or I'll just cut the frame to ease the bend...that's a joke you guys, don't try that at home.

[Accelo]

I noticed you are using a long style water pump on an early truck. Purchase the hose for a later truck that used the long water pump. It may fit better or it may be what you are using already. Just felt compelled to mention it.

[BRL]

Hey glad you did mention it.

Honestly I'm really not that knowledgeable on the peculiarities of these trucks, I just try to keep the darn things running after switching from similar era cars.

At the time I didn't even know there were two different places you could locate the frame mounts, or that different ones even existed.

After I removed the IL-6 and 3-speed manual transmission to add a 350/350 combination that I had under a tarp in the back yard, I was thinking I would need to get a different length drive shaft from somewhere.
Imagine my shock when the drive shaft bolted right back in without any further adjustment.
That was a good day for me and made me look like I knew what I was doing.
I'm not resistant to any advice I can get.

[BRL]

Allright, who decided that putting a hard fuel line next to the frame to feed the fuel pump was a good idea!
And when I put that worm clamp on I must have been 25 years younger and a whole lot more limber.
Gumby would have had a hard time getting to that thing!
And of course the rubber fuel line had welded itself to the hard line over the years so I had to cut it off with a knife.
There's an 18 gallon fuel tank behind the seat waiting to drain itself onto the floor when that line gets cut.
At least I got to it before it started leaking in the middle of nowhere and burned the truck to the ground.

WHEW!

[BRL]

Finally got the fuel line onto the pump from underneath the truck and the line was so tight that my hands kept slipping when they got soaked with gasoline.

So I leaked another gallon of gas onto the floor and and had to vent the garage to keep it from exploding.

Hopefully it will be another 25 years before I have to worry about doing that insanity again.

[BRL]

Hate to bring this thread up again but I have good news and bad news. (for me)
The good news is the replacement pulley I purchased spins true without any wobble, the bad news is I tried to reuse the water pump gaskets that were already siliconed to the block for the third time and one leaked like crazy.
At least I caught it before I left the garage.
Do you really need to add Silicone to the gaskets?
I have some coming in two days but it seems every time I pop the seal the whole tube hardens up.

While I was replacing the gaskets like I should have done twice now, I realized that the block still has ID numbers.
Anybody know how to ID the block?
Friend told me it is a ''Z'' block and has a higher nickel content, I do remember seeing a "Z" cast into the block behind the cam gear.
I know it is a two bolt main 350.

Looks like: 12L534819 and T1202CTL
Any help identifying this block would be appreciated.

[Steeveedee]

I've put them on dry and been OK. Just make sure the surfaces are clean and smooth. If not, I've used #1 or #2 Permatex to good effect. In fact, I put a new timing chain in a '75 Dodge 318 and used only Permatex for the cover to the block, no gasket at all. I could barely afford the chain, at the time.

[BRL]

Thanks for the reply Steeveedee the gasket sealant just arrived so I'll apply it.
I try to cut corners and I end up having to do it all over again the right way, you'd think I'd have learned by now but nope.