clutch adjustment?

[david adonis]

not sure whats going on here,just completed a engine swap putting a fresh rebuild 283 bolting it to a T-5 manuel 5 speed W.C. out of a camaro.problem is w/ the engine off i can go threw the gears just fine, with the motor running i cant get in any gears. why? how can i make this go away?

[david adonis]

Originally Posted by david adonis

not sure whats going on here,just completed a engine swap putting a fresh rebuild 283 bolting it to a T-5 manuel 5 speed W.C. out of a camaro.problem is w/ the engine off i can go threw the gears just fine, with the motor running i cant get in any gears. why? how can i make this go away?

vehicle is a 66 chevy step side swb

[Bigdav160]

How are you actuating the clutch, hydraulics?

[68gmsee]

With engine running clutch may be moving and not allowing the gears to engage properly. Usually it's defective pressure plate or it's possible the clutch adjustment is off.

Couple of thing to double check is to make sure the clutch fork is engaging the throwout bearing properly and clutch linkage for app 1/2 to 1 inch play on the pedal before engaging the throw out bearing. If those are correct, possible defective pressure plate.

[david adonis]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

How are you actuating the clutch, hydraulics?

just the old school factory gm clutch assembly,dont beleve theres any hydraulics to this truck

[david adonis]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

With engine running clutch may be moving and not allowing the gears to engage properly. Usually it's defective pressure plate or it's possible the clutch adjustment is off.

Couple of thing to double check is to make sure the clutch fork is engaging the throwout bearing properly and clutch linkage for app 1/2 to 1 inch play on the pedal before engaging the throw out bearing. If those are correct, possible defective pressure plate.

ok, thanks i'll go the process of elimination route going this way. bye the way if it's a linkage issue which direction do i move the adjuster on the rod itself, forward towards the block or back towards firewall?

[68gmsee]

Adjust the link one way or the other so that you have the recommended pedal free play. You should also check to make sure you have the proper throw out bearing for the pressure plate being used. They make a short and long one.

Questions: Do you know for certain that transmission is actually shifting into the different gears with engine not running? 9I tested my saginaw by blocking wheels and raising rear off the ground).

Do you know if clutch disengages? In other words by depressing the clutch pedal and transmission in gear the truck will start and doesn't try to move.

Also does it grind while trying to engage the gears with engine running?

[david adonis]

yea i do know for certain that i can get in to any gear when not running. i just put it in gear using clutch pedal,get out and try push the trk.and it wont move. i dont know about the second question ive never tried starting the truck in gear depressing the clutch pedal at the same time .i'll try that tomorrow.and the answer to #3 is yes it scratched reverse grear twice before i realized something was wrong.w/ the trk running a could not get into any forward gears. one thing worth noting is that this tranny had no clutch or shifting problem w/ the I-6 250. fow what thats worth.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by david adonis

........ one thing worth noting is that this tranny had no clutch or shifting problem w/ the I-6 250. fow what thats worth.

I would definitely look at the clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing adjustments or installation.

This may sound stupid but be aware that it is possible to install clutch backwards and throwout bearing fork installed wrong on the t-out bearing. If at all possible, have someone push on the clutch pedal while you observe from underneath to see if clutch is in fact disengaging from flywheel. If there's an inspection cover you can look inside with a flashlight.

[Gumby]

I am about 90% sure you can find a thread here about having the extend to splies or something a little bit, a simple at home job, so that the T5 combo works right.

I know ive read something like that here

but im not versed into T5 swaps into trucks

[Gumby]

now 99% sure I read where you need to take an angle grinder and extend the clutch splines a little bit so it works right. Can't find the thread though.

[burnin oil]

I seem to remember reading that the input bearing cover on a T5 was slighly longer than most other GM input retainers. Might be a combination of to much retainer touching the clutch discs hub due to flywheel thickness if this has changed. Most aftermarket flywheels are thicker than the factory piecs. Another thought is that the pilot bearing is not far enough in and the input shaft is bound up a little bit.

On a side note for strange things happening. Is it a borg beck clutch? The one with the 3 large fingers instead of roughly 20 finger diaphram style. I had one of these one time that worked fine but if you pushed the clutch in to far it would actually cause the condition you described. The only way I could adjust it out was to have the clutch release about 1/2" from the top of the pedal. Never did figure out what was funky about that one particular clutch.

[68gmsee]

The article below has a lot of good info on a T5 conversion to a C10. I also have been considering this tranny for my 69. There's a pic of adjustable t-out bearing later in the article but I'm not sure that there are any major changes that need to be made. I guess it depends on the part used.

http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t...ssion_install/