cpp c notch

[familyfast64]

Hey guys, I bought this c notch kit and the welds look good on ONE side. Lol I don't know, maybe I should weld the back side to be sure? I suppose if I have to ask I should prolly just do it to be safe but I thought i'd ask and see if maybe it's better I don't cause perhaps it won't sit properly if the weld is on the inside too? Take a look please .

[familyfast64]

It's obviously a bolt on but I'll prolly weld instead or weld and bolt. Anyone have pics to contribute? Also says it can be done without removing bed but I find that hard to believe. Any input on that? My boys arnt old enough to help lift... Yet! So if I were to have to lift the bed I guess I'd use a two ton shop crane? Any input on that? Thanks guys.

[chevyrestoguy]

I used that same notch on my '64. The welds on the part are just fine. You can see where the welder had good penetration from the weld showing on the backside. If you were to weld the backside, then the notch will never sit flush to the frame.

Here's some tips:
Pull the bed if you can. I couldn't imagine doing this job with the bed on.

My CPP notches came with no instructions, and it's a hassle to line it up to make the marks where you cut the section of the frame out. Make a cardboard template before you start. Make reference lines on your template, the c-notch, and the frame to help you keep everything lined up.

Get two sets of jackstands. Put the first set under the frame forward of the rear axle. Put the second about 3" behind the area where the notch will go. Once the truck is jacked, leave it on stands until you are completely finished with the notches. You don't want the back of the frame to sag when you start cutting out the notch.

Be prepared to break some drill bits. You'll be drilling through some thick metal, so get a good 1/2" drill. Also MAKE SURE you get one with the extra handle on it because when the drill bit catches, you need to be holding it firmly or it's gonna hurt.

Weld the outside perimeter if you can, It never hurts to make it stronger than it needs to be.

There are some pictures on my '64 build thread near the end where I installed my notches.

[familyfast64]

Sweet, yeah I got started tonight. I know what you mean about holding the notch up to scribe what needs to be cut out of the frame. Ugghh, it's pretty straight forward tho, the worst part is removing the old rivets. I should have her finished tomorrow. I also bought new cab bushings and bed mount rubber. And I'm be replacing the driver side floor to rocker support. I'm excited, sway bars next!

[familyfast64]

Chevyrestoguy, your truck is sooo bad. Very nice work bud .

[chakah]

Welds are good, you don't really want to weld the inside. You'll end up tweeking the metal with the heat. Your part will end up out of shape. Also, if there was any part of the weld that needed to be ground for any reason, your grinder wouldn't fit.
For bed removal I used two ratchet straps criss crossed across the bed. Hooked it up to a cherry picker/motor hoist. One man show for this, but you'll need another person to bring hoist down when going back with it. You'll need help while you align the bed bolts.

Hope this helps.

[jmack91z28]

I'm looking to get the same CPP kit. Stupid question: Does the notch kit not come pre-welded?

They seriously do not provide a paper template with this for cutting?

Also, I'm looking to get the heavy duty 3/8" thick one. Did you buy the 1/4" one?

[chevyrestoguy]

Originally Posted by jmack91z28

I'm looking to get the same CPP kit. Stupid question: Does the notch kit not come pre-welded?

They seriously do not provide a paper template with this for cutting?

Also, I'm looking to get the heavy duty 3/8" thick one. Did you buy the 1/4" one?

The notch parts come pre-welded. No need to weld it yourself

My kit didn't come with a template. Maybe familyfast64's kit did. Hopefully, he'll chime in with an answer.

I bought the 1/4" notch, and it looks like familyfast64 did as well. The 3/8" heavy duty notch must be a beast.

[familyfast64]

Yes, it was pre welded. The place I bought my notch from said they usually don't come with instructions or nothing but mine had instructions for a kit that wasn't welded. Either way it's pretty straight forward. Says to line up the front edge of the plate with the rear edge of the slotted hole in the frame. Remove rivets that are in the way, trace , cut, bolt in, drill remaining holes in frame using the notch as a template, and it came with killer lil bump stops and a ton of hardware. I got it for 120$ plus some other stuff, gosh I got a fairly good deal locally. I love that place. Anyway, it's 1/4" welded on one side but some areas didn't penetrate all the way across the 1/4 plate. I realize it's cause they didn't want it in the way, but I thought I'd ask if others addressed this. I'm going back out to finish it tonight maybe, and I took some video and snap shots with the gopro so hopefully I can show you my madness. Jk.

[familyfast64]

I have seen the 3/8ths kit and read it was meant for lowered trucks expecting to tow. Assuming they meant for Dinos dually. Lol

[familyfast64]

Also I have been able to pop the wheels off and get to her fairly easy without removing the bed. Altho I would have removed it if I had a shop crane. Plus my compressor hasn't showed up yet so the rivets are a pain. I only have a small one now but I'm fortunate it still works after 8 years of hard abuse at work. A two ton cherry picker and English wheel are next. Then maybe a 12 or 20ton press cause I want to replace my axles.
Ugghh one thing at a time. I'm gonna start a thread called "garage shots" that might be fun. I'm getting by with mainly wood working tools. Ha, but it's getting better. The passion is growing , I'm new to the game.

[jmack91z28]

Okay, I misunderstood the initial post. Good deal.

Yeah I was still intending to use the truck as such even after I lower it, so I figured a 3/8" kit would be cheap insurance.

Good luck to you familyfast. Post some pictures once you get it complete.