Alternator Question

[Already Gone]

I have a 1972 C10 350/350 with A/C and 87,000 miles. It the original type alternator ( probably a rebuild from years ago ) and I know that because the casting numbers are not right. I have heard and seen threads about one wire alternators. Is that is what my original type alternator is or can someone explain what a one wire alternator is compared to a stock one or is a stock alternator a one wire alternator?

[VetteVet]

Here is good article.


http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml



If you have the stock alternator it will have one large wire connected to the back and a small square plug with two small wires plugged into the back. One blue and one white. The large wire has a rubber boot on it on the far left of the picture. The large black wire on the right is a ground wire that runs to the external voltage regulator.

[Already Gone]

Thanks for the link. I remember that company. About 10 years ago I used MADELECTRICALS brighter headlight instructions and did the upgrade by myself ( that was a big confidence builder for me ) and it worked super and was still working when I sold the truck last year. I will educate myself on alternators before I go changing things up.

[67 Burb]

Greg, VetteVet posted a photo of what your original alt would look like. That's the external regulator type. Here's a photo of the internal regulator type. Are you thinking of upgrading yours? I changed the Burb alternator over to an internal regulator one. Give me a call if you need any info.

Don't go to a "One Wire" alternator.

[gmachinz]

If you have an alternator bracket that would allow you to go with a 6" diameter cased alt, you could upgrade even further to a 140A CS type also. It all depends on what your electrical demands are going to be too. You can also use a small cased CS type rated @ 105A which has the same 12 and 6 clocking-the application for it is a 1988 Olds Firenza with a 2.0 FI. Its the only one that I'm aware of that has a small case and the correct clocking. I build a variety of engine harnesses for a wide range of alternators also if you decide to go that route.

[toolboxchev]

I love the idea from Mad electrical about using a 3 wire system with remote voltage sensing. 100 amps on a 12si alternator unit would cover all my needs.

After much reading from their site it just seems like common sense to follow what they have learned to keep voltages even and up to snuff through out the entire electrical system.

I remember VetteVet posting something about re routing the wiring to the external voltage regulator to keep the existing gauges and all factory stuff intact. Any idea where we can locate that again?

Mad electrical is spot on when it comes to making it right!

[VetteVet]

This is one of several.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=601025

[Already Gone]

I went and took couple pics of my alternator today. Can someone tell from the pics what I have. There is a number stamped into the casing, C1643, does that help?

[Andy4639]

Yours look stock to me from the pictures.
Just want to add. If you look on the drivers side radiator support and see a black box mounted and wires ran to it and nothing has been spliced I say you have a stock alternator.

[toolboxchev]

That looks like a stock externally regulated unit also, only one sure way to know.

Is the regulator on the radiator support hooked up?

[toolboxchev]

So I have been doing more research with keeping the voltage sensing wire were Mad Electrical would like it to be. I have thought about going to an alternator that would be less noisy than the 10 or 12 SI series. In progression it would mean taking it to the next level, A CS series.

More thought needed, input needed???? HMMM??? Can I re route the voltage sensing wire to where Mad Electrical wants it at or near the Fuse Panel and use a CS alternator? HMMM??? More power, more power! Am I getting into more problems?

Then I found this site: http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item...-regulator.htm

They claim this:http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/page...orFAQ.php#Alt6

Specifically that I can use my stock external voltage regulator and be able to step up to a 140 amp unit.

I have also referenced their site regarding wiring sizes:http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/Wire...2012V%20DC.htm


So if I move the voltage sensing wire to a more proper location and put in one of these high output style of externally regulated units am I barking up a wrong tree?

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by toolboxchev

So I have been doing more research with keeping the voltage sensing wire were Mad Electrical would like it to be. I have thought about going to an alternator that would be less noisy than the 10 or 12 SI series. In progression it would mean taking it to the next level, A CS series.

More thought needed, input needed???? HMMM??? Can I re route the voltage sensing wire to where Mad Electrical wants it at or near the Fuse Panel and use a CS alternator? HMMM??? More power, more power! Am I getting into more problems?

Then I found this site: http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item...-regulator.htm

They claim this:http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/page...orFAQ.php#Alt6

Specifically that I can use my stock external voltage regulator and be able to step up to a 140 amp unit.

I have also referenced their site regarding wiring sizes:http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/Wire...2012V%20DC.htm


So if I move the voltage sensing wire to a more proper location and put in one of these high output style of externally regulated units am I barking up a wrong tree?

This is one of my better efforts on the subject.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=417872