Gibbs oil~ the test

[Sport/Truck]

After reading allot about this Gibbs oil I decided this was my best approach to preserving the engine bay of my truck. Painting would make the rest of the truck look out of place. And undercoating looks hideous (IMO makes it look like you are trying to cover up something). Plus the fact that I’m very picky and didn’t want to paint over all the various brake lines, new springs etc.

I had mustered a few guys at work to go in on a case of Gibbs ~ worked out to be $12.50 a can. I had previously rented a Hotsey hot water power washer and completely degreased my engine bay. It sat all summer with bare metal exposed and developed some surface rust. But my main problem is the rust below the master cylinder.

So since my engine is out, everything is clean I just started hosing the Gibbs on. I used a rag to soak up some puddles and made sure everything was coated. The Gibbs seemed to soften the undercoating too, the stains on the firewall were hard to clean when power washing. I used degreasers/cleaners with no luck and the Gibbs seemed to loosen them a bit. I grabbed a rag and use xylene and they came off! I simply recoated the area one more time to make it all shiny.

Overall I’m impressed with the outcome; the whole process only took an hour.
So I had plenty of time to mess around with this stuff.

My heater box looked like its 36 years old, I contemplated painting it etc. I put a small amount of Gibbs in an inconspicuous area on the under side, and I’m telling you it looks very nice! I smeared it with my finger and then wiped it with a clean rag and it looks new! I’m going to let it sit and see how it looks in a day or two. I’ll do another write up with pictures when I make my decision about doing the whole thing or not, but from what I seen so far I’m betting I’ll do it!
I also did a small area on the tailgate’s wood trim, again very impressed!

I’ll keep this updated on the progress as it transpires. I want to see how long it takes to soak in to be dry to the touch and how it looks etc. My hope is that the main rust area will turn to a patina and not look so “rusty”. The frame looks pretty good so far.

Oh yea, I did an old intake on the weekend I got the stuff, it’s been a week and its dry!
I don’t have any after pictures yet but will post them when I take them.

Sorry for the long post, but figured a few of you wanted the full scoop.
s/t

These are the before pictures.....

[Sport/Truck]

These are the after shots....
I'll report back on how this stuff is looking, how long it takes to dry etc.
s/t

[TravisH]

I've used it on the rear crossmember and it worked to a point, the rust turned black. I also sprayed some on a spot of my welding table but didn't do anything, maybe because it was vertical? Also tried on my master cylinder/prop valve but again, made it shiny and didn't affect the rust.

It is an excellent penetrant though and I do think it dissolves some rust but I've been getting mixed results

[truckdude239]

well he was using a hot water pressure washer so that makes a difference think itr looks good

[Riveted1]

Any updates, S/T?

[prg machine]

Originally Posted by TravisH

I've used it on the rear crossmember and it worked to a point, the rust turned black. I also sprayed some on a spot of my welding table but didn't do anything, maybe because it was vertical? Also tried on my master cylinder/prop valve but again, made it shiny and didn't affect the rust.

It is an excellent penetrant though and I do think it dissolves some rust but I've been getting mixed results

I prefer a Phosphouric Acid treatment to get an actual color change...............The Gibbs does actualy penetrate I believe and change things chemicaly. I had a real problem getting the roof of my K-20 ready for epoxy primer. It was going to be impossible to grind out all o0f the rust pitting without having extremely thin roof sheet metal. I had it about as good as i could get it and decided the next morniing, it was last summer and dry. i would shoot the epoxy primer........anyway overnight condensation set in, rust was coming back from the pits!!!!!
I cleaned, sanded etc. Butby the time I got to the other side of the roof, I had rust starting up again... I figured screw this.............I followed the Roadsters.com formula. Shot the roof down with enough Gibbs to wet it and then came back with de-greaser later that same day..........Clean dry and ready for paint and NO RUST returned on the surface after it was totaly degreased. Paint stuck no problem.

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by Riveted1

Any updates, S/T?

I'm going to do my heater box this afternoon or tomorrow. I'll have plenty of pictures.
The stuff I did already is almost dry to the touch, just the flat areas that are somewhat oily still.
s/t

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by prg machine

I prefer a Phosphouric Acid treatment to get an actual color change...............The Gibbs does actualy penetrate I believe and change things chemicaly. I had a real problem getting the roof of my K-20 ready for epoxy primer. It was going to be impossible to grind out all o0f the rust pitting without having extremely thin roof sheet metal. I had it about as good as i could get it and decided the next morniing, it was last summer and dry. i would shoot the epoxy primer........anyway overnight condensation set in, rust was coming back from the pits!!!!!
I cleaned, sanded etc. Butby the time I got to the other side of the roof, I had rust starting up again... I figured screw this.............I followed the Roadsters.com formula. Shot the roof down with enough Gibbs to wet it and then came back with de-greaser later that same day..........Clean dry and ready for paint and NO RUST returned on the surface after it was totaly degreased. Paint stuck no problem.

It says on the can " After wiping, you can paint right over it!"
s/t

[prg machine]

I have done exactly that"painted right over it" on like shovels,the inside of the mower, the rototiller and other things I consider "non-critical".. The roof of the truck I followed the instructions by Valspar and used a good de-greaser.

[prg machine]

Originally Posted by Sport/Truck

I'm going to do my heater box this afternoon or tomorrow. I'll have plenty of pictures.
The stuff I did already is almost dry to the touch, just the flat areas that are somewhat oily still.
s/t

After it drys good it won't be gummy and won't gather dust either. I use it a lot on pecision gage blocks and other measuring equipment at work. Real good cutting oil too..............no slime all over the cutting tools and machines.

[prg machine]

The absolute best on firearms..........cleaning and storage.

[Sport/Truck]

I did my heater box and will post some pictures tomorrow. It looks pretty good, I think it was easier that trying to paint it.
s/t

[prg machine]

Hey Sportside,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,got any mor of those good pics.???

[prg machine]

Any more pics??????

[Sport/Truck]

Sorry to take so long…… the wife is in her 37 week of pregnancy, freezer went out just 2 days before Thanksgiving. So we decided instead of replacing the freezer, we are moving the current 36in side-by-side to the garage and having a new 48in built in delivered this Friday…..so I was a little overwhelmed!
Here are the test results…..
These are the before photos. You can see the spots/stains that wouldn’t come off, and how dry it looks…..
s/t

[Sport/Truck]

Here it is a week later….I wiped it with my finger today and seen just a hint of oil residue (hardly noticeable). I put a couple of good coats on & the last coat was pretty wet.
I’m happy with the results! And think it was easier than painting.
What do you think?
s/t

[Sport/Truck]

Last few....
s/t

[TravisH]

Looks good. Would be interesting to see if it collects dust now. Did you spray the seal or skip it?

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by TravisH

Looks good. Would be interesting to see if it collects dust now. Did you spray the seal or skip it?

I skipped the seal because I plan on replacing it before I install it.
It won't collect dust, it dries completely. I did an intake manifold when I first got this stuff, and it hasn’t collected any dust and it sits out in the garage.
It looks like it’s very oily in the picture, but its not.
My black powder coated parts collect dust real bad. I should put them both out in the garage side by side and take a before and after shot……
s/t

[prg machine]

No dust is correct. That is why it is the best on tools, firearms,,, anything you want protected, dry and dust, lint free.

The FBI , Federal Marshals, police and SWAT teams all use it for firearms... Spray your prize firearms down with WD and see what happens..... You'll never do it again. Their is a documented testimonial about an officer who put a fully loaded Glock in a sealed bag with it full of Gibbs. let the whole thing soak for a week. That's right a fully loaded mag and all.. Took it out and set it on a towel until all dry and took it to the range.. Fired every round and didn't miss a beat.....

[Sport/Truck]

I doubt anyone in there right mind would use WD40 for a gun lubricant…..
The federal agents’ gunsmiths I’ve talked to use Break-free the same stuff we used use in the military. I’ll ask the FBI guys when I see them next.
I’m using militec on my gun….similar that it dries without an oily film.

Still no dust on my parts…maybe on parts of my frame, due to the amount I put on with out wiping it off....I’ll keep this updated, just got back from a long stay at the hospital. The wife had our baby girl….

[prg machine]

FBI endorced.