I adjusted the valves, now it is missing like crazy?

[El_Crnicero]

Hey all,
I haven't posted much but I use this site all the time and love it.
I recently rebuilt my 350 and have maybe 150 miles on it.
Not a major overhall but; camel hump heads, timing chain, cam, barely used lifters, rods, intake, and holly carb.

it ran great for a while and the valves came out of adjustment so today I took it apart to adjust them. the method i used was to get #1 to TDC and adjust the exhaust and intake valves accordingly and then to get #6 to TDC and do the same. When I finished I went to start it up and it ran like crap.
When I tightened the arm down I did not go past 3/4 turn past 0-lash on all of the arms. It sounds like its missing really bad. I went out and got new plugs cause several of them were bad/ not so clean since the valves came out of adjustment. Hopefully that will fix my problems? Do you guys have any suggestions?
Im a bit worried casue my pops told me i might have issues using used lifters with my new cam... I probably should have listened to his experience.
Thanks for you help!

[mclairmo]

I would adjust the valves while the engine is running. Buy clips to prevent oil splash or cut the tops off some old steel valve covers. Loosen each rocker arm nut until it clicks, then tighten it back up until it stops and then give it another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. This is the best method.

[truckdude239]

never never never use used lifters with a new cam specially if it is a flat tappet cam those lifters will wipe that cam out. which sounds like what happened

[BluTrukker]

I would also caution you against reusing lifters. However I think part of your problem may be that you tightened the valves down too much. I have never had to go past 1/2 turn with new parts.

[cdowns]

it's been my experience that hydraulic valves rarely go out of adjustment// i too think the valve"adjustment" is the cause of your problem

[jay6891]

I would adjust with truck running also. Got my fingers crossed for ya on the used lifters on a new cam though. Check your oil and see if that new cam is down in the pan.

[68gmsee]

Great advice... I agree with all of the responses.

The only time I use the static method of adjustment is on initial startup after a rebuild or after new lifters to get them fairly close. The engine running method has always worked best.

The reason you don't want used lifters with a new cam is because the surfaces on the lifters have already mated with the old cam. That is, the initial new surface has already worn off. They may not be true or may have microscopic grooves on the surfaces.

I also agree that unless you have loose worn out adjusting nuts on the rockers or excessive wear, the hydraulic valves don't just all of a sudden go out of adjustment. If they start making noise, and everything is tight then it may be bad lifters.

[vanceman]

I think you may have crossed some plug wires?

[El_Crnicero]

Thanks guys,

When I pulled the covers off the first time I checked the remaining oil in the heads to see if there was any glitter, so far so good. I am going to keep a close eye on it though. Today I plan on cutting up an old set of my valve covers and giving that method a whirl.
I'll double check the wires before i put the new plugs in also, that was my pops first thought too.
If the valves are too tight right now, should I back them off until loose to get the truck to idle before I start adjusting them, by loose I mean just minimal lash.

Thanks again!

[68gmsee]

When you cut the top of the valve cover, cut just enough so you can get at the adjusting nuts. I cut only one cover on mine and did one side at a time.

A set of clips from Napa or an auto parts store would also help. Loosen the nuts up a little at a time until it runs at idle.

[El_Crnicero]

Thanks for the reply.

[D.PASSMORE]

Another thing, make sure using new locking nuts. I had a problem before, nut was backing off after about 100 miles. Sounds kinda weird...

[mclairmo]

My best buddy and I adjusted his valves just like the manual says, with the engine off and it would barely run. His old school Harley biker dad then came in, told us we were both idiots, adjusted the valves while the engine was running using the above described method and got it done in 5 minutes and it ran great. Sometimes, there is no replacement for experience.

[El_Crnicero]

Lol ^^^
I hear that. My problem is that I am a perfectionist and everything, needs to be done just right. Plus I think it was scared into me from the beginning that everything in engine work has to be dead nuts OR ELSE..
I'll just have to relax, take a breathe and go for it. thanks again.

[pmpski_1]

I wish I would have listened to my Pops too. I'm just north of you in Kenmore. I think I may have seen you driving around. Truck looks familair.

[El_Crnicero]

uh oh guys I think I might have touble!!!

well that method worked well and its running nicely again, BUT....
I can't get the clicking out of one piston?
It seems to run fine, idles well, no loss of power, just that damn clicking.
What do yall think?
Should I start pricing out the cost to do "another cam and lifters"


pmpski_1
it might have been me? Im close to juanita beach, but I only finished priming the truck the day before goodguys, so about a month ago.

Thanks again everyone!

[68gmsee]

I'd try every additive I could before tearing down the engine for one ticking lifter.

The way I would do it is to try additives first then push rod and rocker. And if that fails, a new lifter or lifters. I say lifters, because if you're going to remove the intake you may as well go all the way.

[El_Crnicero]

any suggestions for additives out there?
also is it possible to have serious damage if i drive it this way with the click?
I guess there is no real way to answer that, I just want to drive it and have fun again.

I was planning on installing my new stereo and gauges on tuesday, maybe that will make the ticking go away

Thanks again

[heavy70]

sounds like your cam is going flat! you will know when it starts popping!!!

[Ackattack]

if you drive it with it clicking you'll start chewing up the ends of your pushrods....ask me how I know

I'd try adjusting the valves again on that cylinder to get the clicking to go away.

[68gmsee]

No, I don't think you've done serious damage after only 150 miles. I would hope these cams are made out of harder material than that. About the only time I'd really be concerned is if was a drag racing engine... A friend replaced the cam only on an Oldsmobile many years ago and it ran find for many years afterwards.

If you're going to be doing just normal driving, I'd go ahead and stay with what you got. If something happens later on, then do what you need then.

[mclairmo]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

if you drive it with it clicking you'll start chewing up the ends of your pushrods....ask me how I know

I'd try adjusting the valves again on that cylinder to get the clicking to go away.

X2, adjust just the one clicking valve until it stops clicking.

[big mike71]

Originally Posted by El_Crnicero

any suggestions for additives out there?
also is it possible to have serious damage if i drive it this way with the click?
I guess there is no real way to answer that, I just want to drive it and have fun again.

I was planning on installing my new stereo and gauges on tuesday, maybe that will make the ticking go away

Thanks again

I drove my chevelle with one clicking and not to many miles later my cam was flat spotted.

[Tx Firefighter]

Sounds like you wiped a cam lobe.

You guys who adjust lifters with the engine running are foreign to me. If you adjust them properly with the engine off, you can seal it up forever and never get oil all over the place. I spend weeks detailing an engine when I build it and there is no way I'd have oil sloshing around and running down the side of the heads and block.

[Jim_PA]

I wiped a cam lobe years ago. Started ticking, and about 5 miles later, it was flat