anybody used this dual master cylinder bracket?

[tmoble]

after my recent fiasco driving through the guard gate barrier at work I'm interested in upgrading my brake stuff. I have a 2nd gen Camaro front stub and a C4 Vette rear so I've got plenty of brakes at the wheels. remaining is a dual master setup isolating the front and rear and a park brake. park brake would have saved me at the guard gate.

Anyway, I found this deal at Speedway Motors, anybody used it?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1955-5...ter,34153.html

I don't care about power brakes, just reliable brakes.

[tmoble]

ooof

[tmoble]

look at this freakin pinch weld, I thought there would be rust.

[tmoble]

this truck lived in Or from 57 till 85, then Az. I wasn't expecting to find something this clean.

[tmoble]

original glass?

[tmoble]

all fixed

[tmoble]

any way to fix this?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Reinstall with rubber from Steele is what most will say. I've not used them yet but only heard good things about their products.

My '55 windshield looks sandblasted. Where did you find the best price to be?
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[tmoble]

http://myworld.ebay.com/classic-auto...MEFSX:SELLERID

turns out it's a front for some national auto glass distributor. They had a warehouse or a deal with a warehouse here in Phoenix. They had it in stock for $199. Gasket was $33 at Golden State or Grumpys. 199 are you outta your mind??? Cheap, but probably cheap glass too.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Are you regretting the glass or the rubber? Seems like glass is glass if it fits or unless you don't like the tint but that rubber obviously doesn't fit the contour of the frame. Did you install yourself?
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[tmoble]

yes I did. The old rubber was the original I think, it was pulled up in the corner like that too. sometime back in the mid-80s I had used RTV to fill it.

If the glass was further back at the bottom it would help, but I don't think it will go any further without getting pushy with it, maybe breaking it.

I can push the rubber into the corner, but leaves the edge of the glass exposed?/

[tmoble]

more better, went out and reefed around on it while it was sitting in the hot Az sun all day. The rubber is more co-operative that way

[tmoble]

anyway, back to OP, anybody used that master cylinder mount?

[dicer]

Looks good where did you push the most in that area or where? Did you use any kind of sealer like the manual says to and on the steele site says to?

[OrrieG]

When my windshield was replaced in summer 1977 in Phoenix the guy doing it (moonlighting from a glass shop) had to work it pretty good, I thought he was going to break it. Is the new glass the same thickness as the old, I have heard the new is thinner.

[tmoble]

dicer - nope. after the semi-nightmarish procedure of getting it there wouldn't have been any left anywhere that matters anyway. If (when) it leaks I'll look at applying a little sealer under under the edges of the molding on the outside. It's always leaked from the center top, I found that there was a jagged peak of metal sticking up from the outside half of the pinch weld right there. It's gone now. In fact, I worked the whole pinch weld all the way around, straightened it, re-pinched it where there was a gaposis, ground off the high spots and sharp edges all the way around. I'm hoping it's good but expecting to have to add sealer later. Pushed it around the lower right and right corner. If I ever do this again I'll know to stretch it tight across the middle of the top and bottom, leave more for the corners.


Orrie, I should have measured it but the old glass is gone now. I'd guess it's thinner. I've now discovered that the whole glass seems to be off to the right maybe 1/8 - 3/16". That's contributing to my fitment problem at the lower right corner. I marked the truck and the glass dead center before starting, but during the install process it probably crept over a little.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by tmoble

anyway, back to OP, anybody used that master cylinder mount?

I haven't had cause to use it but it looks like it would save a lot of hours of making your own. Using the Brothers truck parts cheat sheet http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...number=MC15559 to check out what the stock master cylinder looks like It looks like making your own bracket to hang the master cylinder and the pedal assembly on would be a bit of a challenge. Doable but sometimes spending 80 bucks to have something that you can bolt on the truck and go works out better than spending a full day in the shop designing and building your own version of the same item.

[tmoble]

yeah, the stock pedal mount would not be easy to duplicate, not for me anyway.

Who knows a lot about engineering of brakes? Have disc F & R, just run a line from each side of the M/C to the front and rear? or run some kind of valve like a proportioning valve? I could just try it plain, run a line to the front and back, no valve, see how it works.

[Dan in Pasadena]

That bracket is for a NON power assisted master cylinder, right?

As for running one line to front and one to back, aren't modern vehicle brake systems set up to run one front AND one back wheel from one circuit, and the other two from the second circuit? Meaning diagonal braking at minimum in the event of one circuit failing?

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

That bracket is for a NON power assisted master cylinder, right?

As for running one line to front and one to back, aren't modern vehicle brake systems set up to run one front AND one back wheel from one circuit, and the other two from the second circuit? Meaning diagonal braking at minimum in the event of one circuit failing?

The later models are but up into the mid 80's they ran the front/back bias in the master cylinders. His current objective is to change to a dual master cylinder so he still has brakes on one end if the other end fails.

That takes a bracket similar to the one in the Speedway link and the proper master cylinder which in this case is probably a 68/68 GM drum brake mc

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by tmoble

yeah, the stock pedal mount would not be easy to duplicate, not for me anyway.

Who knows a lot about engineering of brakes? Have disc F & R, just run a line from each side of the M/C to the front and rear? or run some kind of valve like a proportioning valve? I could just try it plain, run a line to the front and back, no valve, see how it works.

I used the stock foot pedal and made my own bracket. in 85 for the manual dual cylinder, and this build modified to add the power booster. Here are pics before paint. After this photo was taken I made 2 changes. The coiled brake lines were rotated from vertical to horizontal, I could not get them to bleed because of trapped air. I also added a brace from the driveline side of the booster to the front bracket to reduce flex when the pedal was pushed. If you look closely you can see the mounting point on the front bracket from the 85 build when I ran a manual mc. Also a photo of the push rod I made.

[mr48chev]

That is pretty slick Orrie. I am going to do just about the same thing on my 48 this time around but some some guys and I have a feeling that tmoble might be one of them don't have or have access to the tools and equipment necessary to build the brackets or feel that a long afternoon of work on the truck might be better spent on another part of it while they buy the bracket already made.

There was a time when I was first married that I would cut a bracket out at home with a hack saw and file and electric drill and then take the pieces to the local body shop to have Frank Graves weld them up for me for a few bucks. Then I made friends with another guy my age in town and would haul pieces to his house for him to weld up. He welded my T bucket frame one evening when I was at work and all it cost me was a six pack of Bud. I could have bought a welder for the cost of the beer I bought him over an 8 year period for helping on my projects.

[tmoble]

It's for manual brakes, for sure. I'm good with that, or I was. I've had the Camaro front stub on there since the early 90's with an old Impala rear axle. Never felt the need for power assist. When I installed the C4 Vette rear a couple months ago I immediately noticed I needed more pedal effort to stop in normal driving. I figures it was just because the Vette stuff had been sitting for years, there was rust on the rotors, etc. After I cleaned them all up it didn't help much. I decided I was noticing the loss of the self-assisting a Bendix style drum brake does. Don't really know for sure, just notice it takes more leg than it used to. I still don't think I'll be going to power though. $$$ and the crossmember problem. Truck has an extremely simple setup with a stock early Camaro trans crossmember sitting on the lower frame rail flanges. Really don't want to mess with that.

I'm an engine builder, Q-jet and Holley expert level guy with extensive computer and wood working skills. But, when I look at work like Orries I'm amazed. Sure, I could build that -- in a month or so and it would look similar to something you find just south of a northbound cow.

Nice work Orrie, wish I could do that. Reading Orries build thread, the guy has talent and skills mere mortals like like me can only dream of. BTW, Orrie knows me from one of those "other" sites. It's been quite some time now.

[tmoble]

Wow, that M/C is $130 at Brothers, $105 at Grumpys and $95 at Golden State. I'm not really familiar with most of these vendors, is Brothers always high like that? Thats over 30%.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

There was a time when I was first married that I would cut a bracket out at home with a hack saw and file and electric drill and then take the pieces to the local body shop to have Frank Graves weld them up for me for a few bucks. Then I made friends with another guy my age in town and would haul pieces to his house for him to weld up. He welded my T bucket frame one evening when I was at work and all it cost me was a six pack of Bud. I could have bought a welder for the cost of the beer I bought him over an 8 year period for helping on my projects.

That was my situation during the first build. I did the drawings, shipped them to my millwright dad. He fabed them and the shop welder welded them up for me. Same with other misc parts. I would get a bunch fabbed then make a trip to neighborhood blacksmith shop (got to love living in the west) to get them welded. My wife bought me a 1/2 drill after I burned up the third 1/4" trying to drill big holes in 1/4" plate! When we got our present property first item was construction of the shop and aquistion of good tools under the guise of needing them for the major house remodeling that we did.