a few questions on my first street truck - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

dragtruck · 11-01-2011, 01:05 PM

I've built drag trucks before, but never a street truck. I have a few questions and from what I've read in these forums, you guys have all of the answers!!! I have a 1972 GMC 1/2 ton long bed with a 307 and 3 speed manual trans. I haven't checked the rear gear ratio yet, but it is an open rear end. This will be drinen to cruise ins, not a daily driver.
1) I have access to a turbo 350 and a 700R4 auto. Which is the best choice?

2) What is the easiest way to convert from manual brakes to power brakes? I was told that I could get a brake booster and master cylender from a newer chevy truck and it will bolt right up. Is this true and if so, what year truck do I get the parts from?

3)I want to drop the rear 3"-4". What's the easiest way? My truck has leaf springs, not coils in the rear. I thought that all 1/2 tons from '67 thru '72 had coils, but the seller said leaf springs were an option in '72. Not sure if this is true, but I was thinking about putting the rear axle on top of the springs instead of under them. Is this a good idea?

4)Will a newer model split bench seat with a fold down arm rest bolt in my cab? A friend told me my cab wasn't as wide as newer trucks. If it will fit, what's the best year to look for? The gas tank will not be in the way because it's been moved to the frame.

5)Can I put 3 pt. seat belts from a newer truck in my truck? Since no air bags, I want to make it a little safer.

This is a great site with tons of info and thanks for your help.I look forward to asking more questions in the future.

**67cheby** · 11-01-2011, 01:16 PM

i like the 700r4 for the overdrive part of it and if it is built with the correct servos it will hold up to the power . On the brake booster you can buy a kit for around 200 with new booster and master cylinder, i dont know what factory ones might work i think the 73-87's will probably work, just not 100% sure. If you are only wanting to go 3-4 on the back probably do leaf spring hangers and shackles if you do the flip it will do more like 5-6. the newer model seat is a little bit narrower. You can buy the 3 points for your truck (check ebay)

dmack91 · 11-01-2011, 01:54 PM

For the booster, I just found a junk truck and pulled the booster assembly (make sure to get all the brackets and linkages). Cost was $30 and took less than an hour to install, plus didn't have to do anything to the MC other than gently bend the lines to fit.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=221598

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=215980

On seat belts, I went to the local u-pull-it and found some out of a F**d van that worked. I made some heavy brackets to mount them to the floor. Fortunately, our trucks already have the upper mount threaded hole installed. I remember someone saying that early S10 belts worked well, but I haven't looked at them.

dragtruck · 11-02-2011, 01:50 PM

Thanks for the info. Putting those F**D belts in your truck probably killed 30-40 horsepower!! If I drop the truck 2" front/ 4" rear, what size tire & wheel combo will fill up the wheel wells but not rub anything? I am looking at a set of four 18"x8" or 20"x8" wheels, but I'm open to suggestions. Thanks.

11-01-2011, 01:05 PM	#1
dragtruck Registered User Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: proctorville, ohio Posts: 3	a few questions on my first street truck I've built drag trucks before, but never a street truck. I have a few questions and from what I've read in these forums, you guys have all of the answers!!! I have a 1972 GMC 1/2 ton long bed with a 307 and 3 speed manual trans. I haven't checked the rear gear ratio yet, but it is an open rear end. This will be drinen to cruise ins, not a daily driver. 1) I have access to a turbo 350 and a 700R4 auto. Which is the best choice? 2) What is the easiest way to convert from manual brakes to power brakes? I was told that I could get a brake booster and master cylender from a newer chevy truck and it will bolt right up. Is this true and if so, what year truck do I get the parts from? 3)I want to drop the rear 3"-4". What's the easiest way? My truck has leaf springs, not coils in the rear. I thought that all 1/2 tons from '67 thru '72 had coils, but the seller said leaf springs were an option in '72. Not sure if this is true, but I was thinking about putting the rear axle on top of the springs instead of under them. Is this a good idea? 4)Will a newer model split bench seat with a fold down arm rest bolt in my cab? A friend told me my cab wasn't as wide as newer trucks. If it will fit, what's the best year to look for? The gas tank will not be in the way because it's been moved to the frame. 5)Can I put 3 pt. seat belts from a newer truck in my truck? Since no air bags, I want to make it a little safer. This is a great site with tons of info and thanks for your help.I look forward to asking more questions in the future.

11-01-2011, 01:16 PM	#2
67cheby 67cheby Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: siloam springs ar 72761 Posts: 17,890	Re: a few questions on my first street truck i like the 700r4 for the overdrive part of it and if it is built with the correct servos it will hold up to the power . On the brake booster you can buy a kit for around 200 with new booster and master cylinder, i dont know what factory ones might work i think the 73-87's will probably work, just not 100% sure. If you are only wanting to go 3-4 on the back probably do leaf spring hangers and shackles if you do the flip it will do more like 5-6. the newer model seat is a little bit narrower. You can buy the 3 points for your truck (check ebay) __________________ Check out Slosh Tubz, bolt-in inner fenders for frame laying C-10's Slosh Tubz Introductory Price $559 67 Cheby's Dropmember Build Thread Slosh Tubz on Facebook http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554172

11-01-2011, 01:54 PM	#3
dmack91 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Redmond, OR Posts: 754	Re: a few questions on my first street truck For the booster, I just found a junk truck and pulled the booster assembly (make sure to get all the brackets and linkages). Cost was $30 and took less than an hour to install, plus didn't have to do anything to the MC other than gently bend the lines to fit. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=221598 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=215980 On seat belts, I went to the local u-pull-it and found some out of a F**d van that worked. I made some heavy brackets to mount them to the floor. Fortunately, our trucks already have the upper mount threaded hole installed. I remember someone saying that early S10 belts worked well, but I haven't looked at them. __________________ 68 Chev C20- son has it now 83 K20 - bought from son 70 C20 - in progress

11-02-2011, 01:50 PM	#4
dragtruck Registered User Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: proctorville, ohio Posts: 3	Re: a few questions on my first street truck Thanks for the info. Putting those F**D belts in your truck probably killed 30-40 horsepower!! If I drop the truck 2" front/ 4" rear, what size tire & wheel combo will fill up the wheel wells but not rub anything? I am looking at a set of four 18"x8" or 20"x8" wheels, but I'm open to suggestions. Thanks.



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