what else should i buy prior to attempting to lower my truck?

[jasonroman]

well i ordered the kit to lower truck
5/7. kit comes with coils, spindles, shocks,flip kit and shackles.
i originally figured id cough up a bit of dough and pay for the install.
now im thinking i may try and do the install myself.....
anyone have a good diy for me to go by?????

also, since im hoping i can pull it off and will save some coin on the labor.
are there any other things i should replace while i have the front apart?
any special tools needed for the job?

i would appreciate any leads here guys.
i am not really much of a mechanic, but would like to be....
really rather not mess this up too much, but if i can save 500 on install, might be time to learn how to do things on my own.

thanks for any help
j

[SCOTI]

Typical items would be inspection & replacement of any worn front suspension parts while doing the lowering. Ball joints, tie-rods, & bushings have a limited service life so inspect for wear.

[jasonroman]

thanks for reply
should i buy upper tie rods and lower tie rods for both side?
idler arm and piman arm?
these things where bad on my 82 c10 and rather then fix i sold it.... stupid move.
that truck had everything this truck needs....oh well nuff cyin

bushings? where do i buy? what do i buy?
i figure if would make sense to change what i can while in there....
but i have no press, if i need to press bushings in somwhere...<<<if thats stupid, sorry. like i said before, i dont know much.

guess mooge parts are what i should look for. now just need a list of what to look for.

[geezer#99]

Who's gonna weld in the c-notch for you? 7" drop will need that!!

[jasonroman]

kit comes with bolt on notch.
i figure i will hopefully be able to cut and then bolt in the notch.
hopefully is the word here.

[7T2]

Originally Posted by jasonroman

kit comes with bolt on notch.

Drill bits. Lots and lots of drill bits.

Seriously though, if you haven't already, go out and spend the money on a Unibit brand step drill bit. Make sure it is an Irwin Unibit, Harbor Freight ones don't last very long. Make sure it will make a hole big enough for the notch bolts to go through. It is well worth the money. You will waste a ton of time changing bits if you try to start with a small one and keep increasing the size. The Irwin brand ones go through frames like drilling through wood.

[jasonroman]

thanks for reply and advice.
have not purchased anything but the kit yet.
guess ill need pickle fork. 3-5 lb sledge. and this bit.<<<home depot?
wasnt too sure about if the notch would be ok bolted in or better welded.
kit came with a bolt on, i know a kid that might be able to weld if i can get a hold of him. can or should i have a bolt in welded in?

any other tools or tricks?
thanks again for advice guys.

[7T2]

Home Depot sells the bits, among other places. Las time I checked I think Home Depot only sells a three piece "kit" for around $50. Should be two regular Unibits of different sizes and a titanium Unibit. The titanium bit usually works the best, because it's maximum size is 1/2". The bigger one goes to 3/4", but the frame is usually thick enough where the notch goes that one step will not go all the way through, so it's better to use a bit that you can go all the way through with, if that makes sense. If you end up getting a stepper bit that goes bigger than the hole you want, you can use it to drill up to that point and then finish the hole with a regular bit of the correct size (if you use a stepper bit that doesn't end in the size you want, you will end up with a hole that is one diameter on one side and one size smaller on the other, because the metal is thicker than one step in the stepper bit).

[jasonroman]

thanks again for the info, ill look for one of these prior to my attempt at this

[SCOTI]

Unibits are good to have, but not what I would recommend to drill the holes for a bolt-in notch because of the reason listed above (frame thickness). Get a couple high quality drill bits the correct size for the kits bolts (prob 1/2" min; might be 9/16" or 5/8").

Bolt-in c-notches work fine w/just bolting them in. You can also add some 'insurance' welds on the edges for additional security if desired but GRADE-8 hardware properly secured (torqued) would be sufficient.

Tie-rod ends are inner/outer; ball joints are upper/lower. Inspect them for wear by moving the stud around in its housing. If they're loose & easily moved or flop around, they need replacing. My personal theory is if one side is bad, the other can't be far away so I replace things in groups/sets. The idler & pitman can be inspected the same way.

Moog brand is a leader in replacement parts & definitely good quality so you won't go wrong there. Other brands might be cheaper, but you get what you pay for. I'll use house brands only if it's a last resort or I know it's a re-branded quality part.

Some parts supply places also offer other automotive services (parts house/automotive machine shop). Alot of guys don't have a press so they just pay the fee to the parts house or a local garage to R&R the bushings. The last time I did it that way (years ago), the place charged me something like $10 for each bushing/BJ. Not free.... but not as bad as dropping it off & picking it up completed & paying that tab.

Get on here as much as possible if you have questions or just to get to know others in your area. You might find someone local w/some experience (and/or better tools ) that's willing to lend a hand. It's cool to DIY & make friends that share the passion.

[jimmydean]

I went through so many bits when I bagged my '69 I ended up getting a Drill Dr. off ebay.

Might check your brake lines and maybe upgrade them with the money you save. My rubber lines were well shot on my truck.

[jasonroman]

brakes, rotors,lines etc should be good to go.
bought truck in pa, brakes were all siezed up. cost me over 500 to have that done. parts were prob 250...another reason why i gotta learn to do things myself if possible.

looking up bushings, tie rods,etc. got all in a cart little less then 400. but if i wont be able to press bushing and whatever else might need special tool, then what exactley shud i be buying??

[robzilla]

tagging along, as i'm in the process of picking up a kit for the drop and looking for tips from those who have done this already

[jasonroman]

Get on here as much as possible if you have questions or just to get to know others in your area. You might find someone local w/some experience (and/or better tools ) that's willing to lend a hand. It's cool to DIY & make friends that share the passion



thats been my plan....unfortunately, i cant find many in my area. much less willing to lend a hand.
i asked a local if he had a clue where i can get this work done or if he cared to help....
reply was, i do my own work....
so, if i cant get a helping hand, figure ill bang up my own trying.
again, just hope the truck dont end up staying in the drive way perminantley.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jasonroman

thats been my plan....unfortunately, i cant find many in my area. much less willing to lend a hand.
i asked a local if he had a clue where i can get this work done or if he cared to help....
reply was, i do my own work....so, if i cant get a helping hand, figure ill bang up my own trying.
again, just hope the truck dont end up staying in the drive way perminantley.

Ask another, it might take a little time..... Just like in the real world, not everyone on here is open/accessible or willing to help. I don't mind helping guys out & have. I've also been burned trying to help someone.

The guys I have helped I'm sure appreciated it as I know I definitely appreciate those that have helped me. If you were in my area, I'd help ya if I could.

[Cole Trickle]

4" grinder

Big hammer

lots of pb blaster

huge breaker bar

1/2 impact

Ball joint press

patience

I just did a 4.5/6 ECE drop and added disc brakes and a booster. Everything in the kit fit perfect but the truck fought me the whole way. I had to replace almost every front brake line becuse they were destroyed in the removal process.

I replaced all the ball joints and inner and outer tie rods with moog stuff. I replaced the trailing arm bushings while it was apart.

getting out the factory rivets out for the upper shock mounts was fun in comparison to grinding and removing 40 year old ball joints...lol

I did my install 70% by myself and I couldn't finish it up on a 3 day weekend with the brake issues and parts chasing.

Good luck its worth it

[jasonroman]

Originally Posted by Cole Trickle

4" grinder

Big hammer

lots of pb blaster

huge breaker bar

1/2 impact

Ball joint press

patience

I just did a 4.5/6 ECE drop and added disc brakes and a booster. Everything in the kit fit perfect but the truck fought me the whole way. I had to replace almost every front brake line becuse they were destroyed in the removal process.

I replaced all the ball joints and inner and outer tie rods with moog stuff. I replaced the trailing arm bushings while it was apart.

getting out the factory rivets out for the upper shock mounts was fun in comparison to grinding and removing 40 year old ball joints...lol

I did my install 70% by myself and I couldn't finish it up on a 3 day weekend with the brake issues and parts chasing.

Good luck its worth it

thanks to all for replies.
the ball joint press....gotta buy one of these?
i think it will make sense to replace all possible parts up front while im in there.
i figure, brakes are all new. suspension is coming, and if i can, make front end new and tight to go with new coils, spindles and shocks.
honestley dont know what all parts are, or how hard they will be to replace.
got a little time, so i guess ill try finding info, diy's etc on this.
guess ill save up and order all the things you folks are telling me to help make job easier and go from there.

ideally id like to get truck low, yesterday, but prob smarter to wait and do it(or what i can of it) one time... if not, and with my luck, id get spindles on then something will happen where i will need to get back in there to change whatevers on the other side of spindle....
anyway, thanks again guys
and keep advice coming.
much appreciated
an
HAPPY NEW YEAR GUYS!!!!

[jimmydean]

Also from Irwin, bolt removers.



I had to use these with a BA breaker bar to get the top spring bolts out last time.

[7T2]

Bolt in notch will probably have 1/2" bolts for a half ton. I used the same titanium Unibit to do notches on two different trucks, and I still have it and use it. With the 1/2" max on you don't worry about stopping, just drive it home until it goes all the way through (make sure you check on the other side for brake/fuel lines first!)

[jimmydean]

You can rent a ball joint press from most any auto parts store for cheap. Just rent one from the place you get the ball joints from and they will often throw the rental in for free or as a deposit only.

[oldblue1968chevy]

Ha! These guys have got it all down to a science!

Removing factory rivits is the worst for sure! (Upper shock mounts on coilspring k member is THE WORST) Took me nearly an afternoon for the 4 of them (pnematic chizel,4" grinder) I was filthy to say the least.

BF'N Breaker bar
BFH
5' Pry bar (helps me separate BJ) (I think its for tampering cement maybe?)
PB Blaster
More PB Blaster

Something to eat and drink and some good safety glasses (preferbly goggles to keep the flying crap out, I have a burn spot on my cheek from hot metal flying).

Good luck. Oh and PATIENCE AND MORE PATIENCE

[Madfish]

I just put a 6/8 on my 83 and i had never tried anything like this before. Just took my time and remembered everything i saw on here and it wasnt that bad. Plus it was a good feeling knowing when someone asked me who lowered it i could say me!!! I dont think anyone mentioned having a tetnis shot ready.LOL My wife is a nurse and i cut the back of my hand on something under the truck and she brought home a dam tetnis shot the next day!!!

[jasonroman]

Originally Posted by Madfish

I just put a 6/8 on my 83 and i had never tried anything like this before. Just took my time and remembered everything i saw on here and it wasnt that bad. Plus it was a good feeling knowing when someone asked me who lowered it i could say me!!! I dont think anyone mentioned having a tetnis shot ready.LOL My wife is a nurse and i cut the back of my hand on something under the truck and she brought home a dam tetnis shot the next day!!!

got a pic of truck after?
i stopped by another shop today just to hear price range....
6-8 hours at 91 an hour....hmmm
guess ill be buying tools and bleeding a little for sure.

can someone explain, or tell me what ill be grinding?
what rivets? what kinda blade ill need on grinder?
thought i just have to take off and hopefully remember where things go to put back on....
ive been looking for diy on the spindles and the flip kit, have not found much.
guess my search methods suck.
will kit come with good instructions? or basic take off and replace stuff?

[Clyde65]

I did one side at a time and was able to go from the working side to the together side for verification of where/how this or that fit. I took my uppers and lowers to a nearby mechanic and he pressed the BJ out for nothing, I took him lunch the next day because of his kindness but that was all I needed other than the patience, patience and more patience.

Sometime we ( I ) think it wont take too long to do a job on our trucks and we get really peaved when our time estimates should have been in days and not hours. I would get everything together and start one side, get some of it done, then take a break for a few hours. Then just progress as you can, do not overwhelm yourself or get PO'd because you think it is taking too long. Oh and when you decide to take on the project ask your self how long to complete and double that. if you finish early then you can be proud, if not you wont be beating yourself up over it. Oh and always have a friend/buddy handy for a beer or an extra set of hands. mostly for the beer tho.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jasonroman

....well i ordered the kit to lower truck
5/7. kit comes with coils, spindles, shocks,flip kit and shackles.....

can someone explain, or tell me what ill be grinding?
what rivets? what kinda blade ill need on grinder?
thought i just have to take off and hopefully remember where things go to put back on....
ive been looking for diy on the spindles and the flip kit, have not found much.
guess my search methods suck.
will kit come with good instructions? or basic take off and replace stuff?

For that kit (sounds like a 73-87), you'll be grinding the rivets off for the upper BJ's in front & the bump-stop brackets in the rear. Depending on the year of the truck & the exact leaf springs, you may/may-not need to cut 'reliefs' in the bed floor support on each side because of the shackles.

You might also need to trim the lip back a little on the lower a-arms depending on your wheel choice & back-spacing.

Your kit should come w/decent instructions but it's pretty straight forward. Just use a Haynes/Chiltons service manual for reassembly. When you remove/replace the BJ's, the spindle is disconnected so it's just swapping stuff over to the new spindles (paint the spindles before installing them).

The flip kit isn't much worse. Slightly raise the rear housing w/your floor jack. Put jackstands under the frame rails. Remove the wheels. Disconnect the drive shaft. Remove the lower shock bolts & swing the shocks out of the way (or remove them). Loosen the u-bolts securing the rear end. Remove the shackles. Remove the u-bolts & lower the rear housing. You can either disconnect the rubber flex line for the rear brakes or manuver the housing w/it intact. Re-position the housing so you can move the leaf spring packs from above the housing to below (make sure the flip-kit relocation brackets are facing the right direction per the directions). Raise the housing back up. Re-install your dropped shackles (do not tighten them 100% yet; just snug the hardware). Re-tighten the u-bolts (make sure you can get the lower shock hardware on). Re-install/connect the shocks.

Raise the housing again until the truck slightly comes off the jackstands & then tighten up the rear shackles (you want full weight of the truck on the springs/shackles). Look closely @ the leafs where it goes into the shackle & see if it's rubbing against the bed floor support directly adjacent. If it's making contact, trim out the area that touches. If there's no interference, nothing needs to be done.

Before disassembling anything unfamiliar, take pictures & print them out on the computer so you can see how things were positioned prior to taking them apart. This is especially helpful when the project takes longer than anticipated.