47-55.1 Options for moving the radiator forward

[IvelDesigns]

I can't go look at my front clip right now, but what options do i have for moving my radiator forward? I already plan to get a new radiator, so aftermarket options are OK. I was planning on going with a drop in 4 core, but if i have to do something else i will.

My issue is that after mocking up my motor mounts for the BBC i'm putting in my '50, i'm finding that from the end of my water pump to the firewall is at 30.5". by the time i get a spacer and a fan on there, we're looking at around 32"-33". From what someone else has told me, stock distance, firewall to radiator is 29".

I'm really trying to avoid cutting the firewall and pushing it back about 4", so i'm curious if anyone else has ideas for making some more room.

[Fred T]

I don't have pics, but my friend cut the top off the radiator support and used a radiator from a big truck, 1.5 or 2 ton. He moved the radiator forward a couple of inches.

To do what you're wanting you need to go the electric fan route.

[britnjc]

I just moved my radiator forward this past weekend. I essentiall just mounted it to the front of the rad. support. I made a spacer which in turn bolted to the radiator and then bolted to tthe front of the old support. I dont have pics with me but I can get some.

[britnjc]

Oh yeah my radiator was a 1969 ford mustang radiator all alum and welded. It is very well put together radiator and I got it off ebay new for around 200 dollars check this link and it will take you to his store. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

[britnjc]

try this link the other didnt work. This will take you direct to his ebay store. http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ledfoot_racing/

[Houston54]

I do not think you will be able to fit that BB in without changing the firewall. All the big block installations I have seen required it. Not saying it cannot be done as anything is possible but that is the "typical" method on these trucks.

If it were me I would get a *****in products firewall and be done with it. Since it appears you are a pretty good fabricator you can probably bend one up yourself and splice it into the existing.

I think it would simplify your installation. There are other issues besides the radiator that complicate your current approach to the problem.

[IvelDesigns]

Originally Posted by britnjc

try this link the other didnt work. This will take you direct to his ebay store. http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ledfoot_racing/

Looks like I will be getting the 49-54 chevy truck radiator from this guy if he can get one with a trans cooler built in. If he can't, i'll probably still get it and just get an external trans cooler.

prices and feedback seem really good. $220 for a radiator is about a 1/3 the price of all the other places i've looked.

[IvelDesigns]

yeah, that's what i meant. I was sayin i'd do it from the seam on the firewall below the cowl, on down. with the BBC and tall valve covers, it's pretty close to the column hole. If i try to avoid the column hole, it's going to look a little funky since i'd basically be making a direct outline of the engine/valve covers

I'm still kickin' ideas around. I may be able to get by w/o hacking it up.

[mr48chev]

Some of those steel garden wheelbarrow pans make nice firewall indentatons to clear an engine.

I've been there, done that and have the greasy Tshirt when it comes to cutting radiator supports and moving radiators and all I can say is don't do it. The usual results are way too many squeeks and cracked and leaking radiators. Plus after a few thousand miles all that work you went to to fit the nose right is gone and wasted.

[Houston54]

Here is an example of a big block installation with the firewall mod. You can see the inside of the cab is not impacted that much in terms of foot room/pedal placement.

http://www.hotrodsforsale.com/site/g...path=12&page=1

[OrrieG]

I'm sure you have thought about it but what about using an electric water pump with push fan on the radiator. I know from what I have seen on the build threads here notching the firewall is what it required. In my mind three cuts and welds are a lot easier than refabricating the whole radiator, hood latch, fender mounting assembly. Getting cab/hood/fenders/inner fenders are hard enough as it is.

[britnjc]

If all you are need are a couple of inches then the route I went was easiest for me. My truck is not a show truck by any means but I am not going to cut corners for reliability. I basically just mounted my radiator on the front of the core support. By doin this I am not adding any more stress to the radiator, it still mount on the same metal core support that mounts in the stock location. You do not have to change any mounting points for core support, fenders, hood latches, etc. It will be as good as originall just 2 inches forward. When I mocked up the grille I had probably 3 to 4 inches in front of the coresupport to play with. My radiator is in the shop having the bottom outlet relocated close to the passenger side because it was in front of drive pulley. I will get it back tomorrow and mount it back on the front and take a couple of pictures to show.

[britnjc]

by the way it only took me about two hours to get it mounted where I needed. Alot easier than moving my motor back.

[discodadee]

I'm with Orrie on this one, electric fan and water pump combo, superior performance and more room!

[IvelDesigns]

I went out and looked at my front clip tonight and it looks like i can easily move the radiator forward 2" without impacting the hood or the latch. I will need to make different grill supports, but that's no big deal.

So as of right now the plan is to move the rad forward 2", run an electric pusher fan, and cut the fire wall to get the engine back 2". that should give me plenty of clearance for what i need.

Should i still consider running a fan shroud on the engine side of the radiator even though the fan will be on the other side? I'll have the room for one, and my thought is that it would help to direct the air flow over the engine.

[50adrod]

Originally Posted by IvelDesigns

I went out and looked at my front clip tonight and it looks like i can easily move the radiator forward 2" without impacting the hood or the latch. I will need to make different grill supports, but that's no big deal.

So as of right now the plan is to move the rad forward 2", run an electric pusher fan, and cut the fire wall to get the engine back 2". that should give me plenty of clearance for what i need.

Should i still consider running a fan shroud on the engine side of the radiator even though the fan will be on the other side? I'll have the room for one, and my thought is that it would help to direct the air flow over the engine.

A shroud will not be needed on the engine side, the purpose of the shroud is to direct airflow across the radiator. not to cool the engine itself, besides it might look a little funny

[IvelDesigns]

that looks a lot like what i plan to do. I'm going to go with the 48-54 chevy truck radiator from the guy you got yours though. It looks like i'll be able to move it forward 2, maybe 3 inches w/o impacting the hood or the hood latch. I did notch my firewall about 1.5" and finished is up tonight. tomorrow i hope to test fit the motor again and make the mounts, again. hopefully the rest of my hardware shows up from Scotts Hotrods soon so i can actually finish the motor mounts. and then finish the tranny mount.

I hope that with moving the rad, and moving the motor back, I'll have enough room to put the tranny cooler on the engine side of the rad. If not, i'll make a mount in front of the fan on the outside of the rad.

[50adrod]

Originally Posted by IvelDesigns

that looks a lot like what i plan to do. I'm going to go with the 48-54 chevy truck radiator from the guy you got yours though. It looks like i'll be able to move it forward 2, maybe 3 inches w/o impacting the hood or the hood latch. I did notch my firewall about 1.5" and finished is up tonight. tomorrow i hope to test fit the motor again and make the mounts, again. hopefully the rest of my hardware shows up from Scotts Hotrods soon so i can actually finish the motor mounts. and then finish the tranny mount.

I hope that with moving the rad, and moving the motor back, I'll have enough room to put the tranny cooler on the engine side of the rad. If not, i'll make a mount in front of the fan on the outside of the rad.

you can allways use the finned aluminum trans cooler and mount it to the frame. that is my plan.

[IvelDesigns]

Originally Posted by 50adrod

you can allways use the finned aluminum trans cooler and mount it to the frame. that is my plan.

yeah, i may go that route. I won't know until i get it all in place. I'm just happy to see things coming together I need to get some pics up in my build thread. been a while since i've updated it.

[youngrodder]

Looks good.

Did you need to also modify your core support cover?

It looks like it would work, but I would be intrested in how it looks with the core support cover.

Thanks
Marc

[weldvair@embarqmail.]

I made a new core support out of 1"x2" tubing. Looks like it should work.

Don

[britnjc]

Young Rodder,

Well here is my test fit for the cover and I have a small problem but also an easy fix. The radiator is hitting the cover so I have a couple of options. I can either drop the radiator about an inch, which I will probably do or I could notch the cover which I don't want to do. I think when I remove the radiator to paint the support and clean everything up I will just use the other hole I drilled to lower the radiator to clear the cover. Well see though, I need a few hours of free time to get downstairs and do some work.

[PDW HOTRODS]

What I did is a little more work, but I'm using a 78 Malibu front end. I made a wider core support, and I am using a 3 row cross flow radiator from a 69 Camaro. It is shorter, so it clears the steering box, and it will cool a big block. Mine is about 2.5 inches forward of where the stock one was. I modified the front of both inner fenders, and the cover.

[IvelDesigns]

tonight i pulled the front clip out of the back yard and did a test fit. It looks like i actually have 30" of room from the stock firewall to the face of the radiator, then add the 1" i moved the firewall back and we're looking at a real snug fit, but i think mine will work without moving the radiator at all.

I'm going to wait and see once the motor is in it's final position, but i was really happy to see that things are looking good. If it comes down to it, moving the rad forward .5-1" will be easy.

Also, my core support is different that what you guy are showing (at least what britnjc is showing). I don't have that "cover" that you show. my radiator has nothing over it, just some sheet metal right up to it.

[mr48chev]

He hasn't logged on at all for two years. I think if you checked down that list there are three or four who haven't been on for a few years.