Upper Control Arms

[72malibu]

What are you guys doing to replace or rebuild the upper control arms?

It looks like the lowers are not sold new, so they must be rebuilt.

How good are the loaded stock replacement uppers? By AC Delco? Moog? Other?

[kwmech]

What's so hard about rebuilding the uppers you have?

[Just call me Sean]

I put a replacement Duralast upper on my 93, it looks almost identical to the old one. I couldn't rebuild the old one because it was damaged. I rebuilt one on my S10, also with Duralast parts.

[72malibu]

I've never rebuilt them myself, but I'm not afraid to try.

Is there a tool that helps?

On my pro-touring Malibu I have tubular control arms with a .5" taller upper ball joint. Does anybody run taller upper ball joints on these trucks to improve the factory geometry?

Are offset cross shafts helpful?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 72malibu

I've never rebuilt them myself, but I'm not afraid to try.

Is there a tool that helps?

The bushings press in/out. Install/removal depends on what shape things are in & the type of new bushings used.

On my pro-touring Malibu I have tubular control arms with a .5" taller upper ball joint. Does anybody run taller upper ball joints on these trucks to improve the factory geometry?

They make tubular arms for trucks for the same reasons they do for cars. Trucks already have a tall spindle vs many cars like your Malibu. That being said, tall BJ's could be used by those really trying to dial things in more than what already works.

Are offset cross shafts helpful?

Offset shafts work different for trucks vs cars because of how the upper arms attach to the frame. They can be useful if the alignment is being set-up by someone knowledgeable on sport/aggressive alignment settings. The caveat is that you could possibly achieve target set-points w/o the offset shaft.

[72malibu]

Useful info SCOTI, thanks.

Interesting to learn the truck geometry is different from the A-bodies.

I watched a video by Brothers showing removal/install of bushings. Looks like the key is cutting up some exhaust tubing to use as shims to prevent the arms from getting distorted when pressing bushings in and out.

Planning to install new rubber. I have delrin in the Malibu but the truck will be a stocker.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 72malibu

Useful info SCOTI, thanks.

Interesting to learn the truck geometry is different from the A-bodies.

I watched a video by Brothers showing removal/install of bushings. Looks like the key is cutting up some exhaust tubing to use as shims to prevent the arms from getting distorted when pressing bushings in and out.

Planning to install new rubber. I have delrin in the Malibu but the truck will be a stocker.

Correct. I use pieces of 1" angle cut to length to keep them from compressing when pressing in the new bushings/shells.

The A/G body Malibus have the upper a-arm mount/locating bracket on the top of the rail. C10's have them on the side of the rail.

Achieving NEG Camber on A-bodies requires adding shims which pushes the A-arm closer to the engine/exhaust.
Achieving NEG Camber on a C10 requires removing shims which brings the A-arm closer to the frame rail.

A/G bodies had a ~7.5" stock spindle height.
C10's had a ~9" stock spindle height.
For era comparison.... Stock F & B body 'tall' spindles were ~ 9". C4 Vettes were ~10+ (11"?).

[old Rusty C10]

the easiest way to do any control arm bushings is to heat the thing up with a torch and beat out the bushings. Meanwhile i tend to throw the new bushings in my freezer overnight so after i pop out the old bushing i can more easily drive the new one in with a BFH