1968 GMC - Ol' Blue

[TA_C10]

Excellent, Im at same stage and need to get those same parts sent out to blaster. If you don't mind my asking, how does your blaster charge for that? I'm curious if my guy is going to have similar cost as he seems to be a little high...

[MDPotter]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Excellent, Im at same stage and need to get those same parts sent out to blaster. If you don't mind my asking, how does your blaster charge for that? I'm curious if my guy is going to have similar cost as he seems to be a little high...

It depends. He charged $50 per door shell (door minus outer skin) but he's going to charge by the hour with this batch since I have so many little parts. I'll have them back this Friday, I can let you know the total if you'd like. My guess is around $350.

[MDPotter]

I got my parts back from the blaster on Friday so I was able to get half the parts in epoxy and the other half in chassis saver.

I also got my driver door reskinned and it lined up great. I've learned that the best way to reskin a door is to keep the inner structure whole and to fit the new skin to it so that the correct profile is achieved.

I've been considering options for stripping my hood as I don't want to take it to a sandblaster and risk ruining it. The hoods on these 67-72's don't have a great structure to them so it makes bodywork difficult. In fact, the sandblaster I plan on taking my cab to won't even touch the hood. I thought about paint stripper and using my DA, but I ended up buying Eastwood's SCT tool. It comes with a 120 grit nylon drum and it worked great on the top of the hood - the picture below is about 30 seconds of moderate pressure. It works great on surface rust and primer, but it bogged down on the lacquer on the underside so I'm going to buy the abrasive drum which should be more effective. Stripping with my DA will take way too long because it's a fine orbit (3/32" instead of 3/16") and it will work the compressor for hours and hours whereas the SCT tool is electric and will strip things pretty quick and without too much heat buildup as long as I move around a bit.

I'm getting close to being done with the cutting and welding portion of this project. I just have to do a little rust repair on one of the fenders and then do the rockers/pillars on the cab and then I can finally move on to filler and sanding. My goal is to have everything but the bed painted by October so that I don't have to worry about cold weather and can spend fall and winter assembling and wiring.

[MDPotter]