Vortec swappers with dual tanks: how'd ya do it?

[Ford Assassin]

Digging up an old thread....

Originally Posted by texasfunk

on my 85 i put an electric fuel pump right after the valve to switch tanks, works fine for me.

Originally Posted by Driveway Dreams

I don't have much info as far as fuel setup. I would think an electric pump set up like I have in mine would work.
Tanks--->Switch valve--->Electric pump--->Up front.

Any reason this wouldn't work on my TBI/454 1988 R30 for my 5.3 swap? I have done well over 25+ LS swaps, but never had to deal with two tanks.

Here's the paper napkin plan:

Each in-tank TBI pump (both new Delco pumps 7 months ago), through the factory fuel lines to the stock tank switch valve, then valve would feed into the high pressure pump (Walbro 255 in-line that I already own, just need to splice in), then into a
Wix 33737 Corvette style filter/regulator (and fuel return plumbed back into the factory/stock fuel lines, through the switch valve), lastly to the 2005 returnless the fuel rail inlet.

This would be the least expensive route for me since I already own everything from a previous project combined with the factory TBI fuel system. Easiest too from a labor stand point.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Ford Assassin

Digging up an old thread....





Any reason this wouldn't work on my TBI/454 1988 R30 for my 5.3 swap? I have done well over 25+ LS swaps, but never had to deal with two tanks.

Here's the paper napkin plan:

Each in-tank TBI pump (both new Delco pumps 7 months ago), through the factory fuel lines to the stock tank switch valve, then valve would feed into the high pressure pump (Walbro 255 in-line that I already own, just need to splice in), then into a
Wix 33737 Corvette style filter/regulator (and fuel return plumbed back into the factory/stock fuel lines, through the switch valve), lastly to the 2005 returnless the fuel rail inlet.

This would be the least expensive route for me since I already own everything from a previous project combined with the factory TBI fuel system. Easiest too from a labor stand point.

Looks.like a good plan.

[Dleslie212]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Looks.like a good plan.

I’m digging up your old dug up post now...

Did you ever do this?

1977 K10

I just installed an Edelbrock ProFlo 4 system, but I’m not happy with the fuel system. What I currently have is dual tanks into one of the newer switching valves, into a 60 PSI fuel pump, up to a regulator that splits into the injector rail and return line, which is then plumbed back into the switching valve.

My problem is that the external pump is overheating. After an hour or so of driving, I can start to hear the pump whining, and I can watch my fuel pressure slowly creep lower and lower on the tablet that came with the ProFlo system. The pump is mounted underneath the top portion of the inside passenger frame rail, but is somewhat close to my exhaust. I’m pretty sure the heat soak from the exhaust is overheating the pump. This was most apparent when I took the truck for a 4 hour off-road trip on an 80 degree day a few weeks back - I had to crawl on the bumpy ass Road so slowly that there was no air flow underneath to move air. It was a nightmare - on the way back, I had to stop every 20 or 30 minutes and spray cold water onto the fuel pump, wait for it to cool down, and then start again. However, I just took the truck out camping last weekend, and was on the highway for about an hour. It wasn’t as bad as the off-road trip, but I towards the end, I could still hear the fuel pump whining over my loud exhaust, and my pressure started slowly creeping down again.

What I’d like to do is just replace the dual tanks with newer baffled tanks and internal fuel pumps, but am struggling comprehending how I’d go about controlling which pump activates in unison with the switching valve.

Also, any recommendations as far as which tanks and internal pumps I should be looking for would be awesome. The senders themselves are both about a year old, but I don’t mind replacing them again either

[SunSoaked]

Originally Posted by Dleslie212

I’m digging up your old dug up post now...

Did you ever do this?

1977 K10

I just installed an Edelbrock ProFlo 4 system, but I’m not happy with the fuel system. What I currently have is dual tanks into one of the newer switching valves, into a 60 PSI fuel pump, up to a regulator that splits into the injector rail and return line, which is then plumbed back into the switching valve.

My problem is that the external pump is overheating. After an hour or so of driving, I can start to hear the pump whining, and I can watch my fuel pressure slowly creep lower and lower on the tablet that came with the ProFlo system. The pump is mounted underneath the top portion of the inside passenger frame rail, but is somewhat close to my exhaust. I’m pretty sure the heat soak from the exhaust is overheating the pump. This was most apparent when I took the truck for a 4 hour off-road trip on an 80 degree day a few weeks back - I had to crawl on the bumpy ass Road so slowly that there was no air flow underneath to move air. It was a nightmare - on the way back, I had to stop every 20 or 30 minutes and spray cold water onto the fuel pump, wait for it to cool down, and then start again. However, I just took the truck out camping last weekend, and was on the highway for about an hour. It wasn’t as bad as the off-road trip, but I towards the end, I could still hear the fuel pump whining over my loud exhaust, and my pressure started slowly creeping down again.

What I’d like to do is just replace the dual tanks with newer baffled tanks and internal fuel pumps, but am struggling comprehending how I’d go about controlling which pump activates in unison with the switching valve.

Also, any recommendations as far as which tanks and internal pumps I should be looking for would be awesome. The senders themselves are both about a year old, but I don’t mind replacing them again either

Perfect timing. I too am looking at redoing my dual tank setup on my 85 K20 with PF-4. I'm in Yuma, just south of you and the heat does not play well with my current Edelbrock remote sump setup.

So far I have come up with needing to replace the tanks with 87 versions, Spectra sending units, EP381 pumps, 87 rocker switch, AC Delco 6 way valve (replacement for the Pollack) and new FI rated hoses and clamps.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Dleslie212

I’m digging up your old dug up post now...

Did you ever do this?

1977 K10

I just installed an Edelbrock ProFlo 4 system, but I’m not happy with the fuel system. What I currently have is dual tanks into one of the newer switching valves, into a 60 PSI fuel pump, up to a regulator that splits into the injector rail and return line, which is then plumbed back into the switching valve.

My problem is that the external pump is overheating. After an hour or so of driving, I can start to hear the pump whining, and I can watch my fuel pressure slowly creep lower and lower on the tablet that came with the ProFlo system. The pump is mounted underneath the top portion of the inside passenger frame rail, but is somewhat close to my exhaust. I’m pretty sure the heat soak from the exhaust is overheating the pump. This was most apparent when I took the truck for a 4 hour off-road trip on an 80 degree day a few weeks back - I had to crawl on the bumpy ass Road so slowly that there was no air flow underneath to move air. It was a nightmare - on the way back, I had to stop every 20 or 30 minutes and spray cold water onto the fuel pump, wait for it to cool down, and then start again. However, I just took the truck out camping last weekend, and was on the highway for about an hour. It wasn’t as bad as the off-road trip, but I towards the end, I could still hear the fuel pump whining over my loud exhaust, and my pressure started slowly creeping down again.

What I’d like to do is just replace the dual tanks with newer baffled tanks and internal fuel pumps, but am struggling comprehending how I’d go about controlling which pump activates in unison with the switching valve.

Also, any recommendations as far as which tanks and internal pumps I should be looking for would be awesome. The senders themselves are both about a year old, but I don’t mind replacing them again either

Originally Posted by SunSoaked

Perfect timing. I too am looking at redoing my dual tank setup on my 85 K20 with PF-4. I'm in Yuma, just south of you and the heat does not play well with my current Edelbrock remote sump setup.

So far I have come up with needing to replace the tanks with 87 versions, Spectra sending units, EP381 pumps, 87 rocker switch, AC Delco 6 way valve (replacement for the Pollack) and new FI rated hoses and clamps.

I'm not sure if you guys have read through this thread yet, but I highly recommend it:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=754061

[Dleslie212]

Originally Posted by SunSoaked

Perfect timing. I too am looking at redoing my dual tank setup on my 85 K20 with PF-4. I'm in Yuma, just south of you and the heat does not play well with my current Edelbrock remote sump setup.

So far I have come up with needing to replace the tanks with 87 versions, Spectra sending units, EP381 pumps, 87 rocker switch, AC Delco 6 way valve (replacement for the Pollack) and new FI rated hoses and clamps.

Yeah I think you’re the one who convinced me on this board to swap to the PF4 a few months back. I’m actually from Yuma, I’ve only been in Phoenix about 10 years.

Are you planning on running the new fuel pumps via the PF4 somehow? Or are you just running separate power lines to the pumps?

I’m actually considering now ditching the dual tanks and installing a single, large fuel cell under the bed. I haven’t even got to the point of checking out fuel cells, but my concern is finding a large enough capacity. I like to use the truck for a lot of overlanding type stuff, and don’t want to be constantly worrying about running of of gas. The reason I like the dual setup is because I can hold nearly 40 gallons

[Dleslie212]

Originally Posted by SunSoaked

Perfect timing. I too am looking at redoing my dual tank setup on my 85 K20 with PF-4. I'm in Yuma, just south of you and the heat does not play well with my current Edelbrock remote sump setup.

So far I have come up with needing to replace the tanks with 87 versions, Spectra sending units, EP381 pumps, 87 rocker switch, AC Delco 6 way valve (replacement for the Pollack) and new FI rated hoses and clamps.

SunSoaked, have you started this yet?

[SunSoaked]

No, I haven't but I have the list of parts I need. I just bought a new GMC so it's kind of on the back burner at the moment. I'll have to order it one piece at a time now. Probably get the fuel tank first and get it swapped over and running on one tank and add the other side in the near future.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Ford Assassin

Digging up an old thread....





Any reason this wouldn't work on my TBI/454 1988 R30 for my 5.3 swap? I have done well over 25+ LS swaps, but never had to deal with two tanks.

Here's the paper napkin plan:

Each in-tank TBI pump (both new Delco pumps 7 months ago), through the factory fuel lines to the stock tank switch valve, then valve would feed into the high pressure pump (Walbro 255 in-line that I already own, just need to splice in), then into a
Wix 33737 Corvette style filter/regulator (and fuel return plumbed back into the factory/stock fuel lines, through the switch valve), lastly to the 2005 returnless the fuel rail inlet.

This would be the least expensive route for me since I already own everything from a previous project combined with the factory TBI fuel system. Easiest too from a labor stand point.

Newer diesel trucks and gasoline sedans do it that way. Lift pump then the system pressure pump.
Lift pumps in the tanks that can supply enough volume to keep the single high pressure pump mounted outside the tanks happy.
As I said in the dual tanks post... the return pressure shouldn't damage a 65PSI Pollack valve. I did neglect to mention that you'll probably have to update the valve to the latest and greatest from Pollack. The original GM valve is not rated for 65PSI more like 35 or 40PSI.