LS Swap: Introduction, newbie, planning...

[gmc684x4]

If you use 98 camaro temp sender late square body truck temp gauge should be able to swap in the cluster and match the 98 z28 sensor

[gmc684x4]

I see you have the engine in the back position can you show how tight is that to the fire wall does that make a tighter then a sbc in that position ?

I am using a 96 suburban tank cutting the pump retainer out of a 99 express van and use the 03 truck pump assembly with a tanks inc sender correction box is $ 90 at summit

[Davidf]

Plenty of clearance at firewall and easy access. I took some photos, but will have to wait until back at office to post.

Made some progress yesterday:
Salvaged fuel lines out of donor, straightened and rebent to follow left frame rail and up firewall so factory rubber hoses connect to fuel rail. Used throttle pedal bolts coming through firewall as anchor points. Used factory fuel filter and bracket to mount on frame rail. In tank fuel pump and connection to fuel filter remains. Return line parallels supply.

Salvage exhaust down pipes out of donor, right side factory 90 is in perfect spot. Left side will welded up so it turns inward slightly and then rolls back to rear right below trans linkage.

Relocated trans linkage bracket, narrowed linkage and connected all to trans.

Cut end off donor throttle cable and shortened as much as possible so enough inner cable in cab to connect to pedal. But it is too short now. Anyone know of a longer cable than came in 01 Tahoe? Need to redo this part.

Pulled out all the windshield washer hoses...wiring harness will enter cab where washer hoses were. Anyone know best remote electric washer pump?

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by gmc684x4

I see you have the engine in the back position can you show how tight is that to the fire wall does that make a tighter then a sbc in that position ?

I am using a 96 suburban tank cutting the pump retainer out of a 99 express van and use the 03 truck pump assembly with a tanks inc sender correction box is $ 90 at summit

Plenty of clearance. +/- 1.5" from left cylinder head to closest spot on firewall...
Transmission (4L60e) is about 1/4" from touching low hump tunnel.
Next up...front clip goes back on. Have my three sons coming home to help tomorrow night...

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Better overall photos:
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Modified the battery tray to move from right to left side...
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[gmc684x4]

I have 3 washer jugs going to see what fits the best new 00 corolla washer jug and pump washer jug and pump from 92 c1500 and a jug from a 03 k1500
I plan on stock air filter i scrounged up factory auxiliary battery plate assembly

I haven't pulled my motor yet working on peicing together my chassis first plan on reusing what I can tranny donor van has plastic fuel lines not sure yet about the truck
Summit has a good fuel line crimper to make factory style crimps

[Rich84]

Try a cable off of an S10. It fit well on mine.

[Davidf]

Any particular year of S10? I want the factory cable look, so Lokar is out. I have heard a bicycle brake cable will work, might try that.

As for an update on my project, with the help of my three sons, we got the front clip reinstalled and adjusted. A bit of collatteral damage as the inner fender snagged the front brake line coming off the distribution block and broke the pipe. And, some chipped paint under the cowl (no one will see it, but I know it there). Surprised how small that front brake line is 3/16". But, it will be an easy task to bend up and flare a new line.

Also, one of the transmission cooler pipes got pinched under the inner fender. We kinked it trying to get it out from under the liner. Not a big deal as the radiator side of the Tahoe lines had a lot of bends that wont work. Instead of re-bending the 3/8" lines, I cut them just in front of the engine and will use new 3/8" lines bent how I like them and connect to the radiator with an adapter fitting (BLF-18) that reduces the 3/8" line (5/8" inverted flare nut) to 1/2" inverted flare

[ls1nova71]

If you have a pick n pull close, you can get a throttle cable off of a van as they are about the longest cables you will find, then cut it and the original one apart and combine the two. Astro vans are plentiful around here and work well. I have pics in my build thread, post #34. https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-c-10-a-2.html

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

If you have a pick n pull close, you can get a throttle cable off of a van as they are about the longest cables you will find, then cut it and the original one apart and combine the two. Astro vans are plentiful around here and work well. I have pics in my build thread, post #34. https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-c-10-a-2.html

Yes sir, I followed you post on modify the Tahoe cable. But, it is just too short (and I have my engine set back). I'll find one somewhere.

[Davidf]

Update: Making progress. Radiator in, trans cooler lines complete, air box mounted, battery tray relocated. Computer mounted behind front left fender, cruise control servo mounted. Engine wiring bundled and routed. Truck engine compartment wire harness thinned and reversed (due to battery relocate). LS mechanical fan and '71 fan shroud are playing perfectly together.

Left to do: Fuel system, exhaust, wiring inside cab (you can see cab wiring pigtail in photo...it will go through hole for windshield washers, electric condenser fan wiring, body power wiring, a/c, heater hoses, cruise control lever/wiring, single piece driveshaft, trans fluid/filter change.

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[kev2809]

great progress....hope to get on mine soon!

[Davidf]

Update (Sorry no photos):

I made the 2001 Tahoe throttle cable work, but it is tight from engine to firewall and barely enough inner wire to put the cable stop on. Opens to WOT.

ALL engine compartment wiring is complete, including fans on condenser, grounds, headlight relay kit, etc. Only questionable wiring is the ammeter...we'll see if it works later.

Working on getting the a/c plumbing done...not easy. Had to pull front grill and will have an a/c shop make a hardline with proper ends that eliminate the drier and go through the same hole in the core support. Will order two sets of compressor adapters - one set that goes straight up, for the low side. And, one set that goes straight forward (already have on hand), for the high side (cannot use straight up because of frame interference).

Cruise control switch lever relay pack wiring is complete. Relays convert normally closed cruise switch to normally open. Using the Rostra lever/switch.

What's left to do:

Complete a/c plumbing and charge.
Under dash wiring: OBD2, cruise control, check engine light, TCC, etc.
Fuel system: in tank pump, hard lines (1/2 done)
Exhaust system: will go with Thrush kit.

Getting close.

[Davidf]

Update:

In tank fuel pump is fabricated and mounted in tank. All fuel lines run...fuel system complete.
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All under hood wiring is complete and a/c lines fabricated and connected.

Left to complete: exhaust, complete in-cab wiring, install volt meter gauge, speedometer drive.

[Davidf]

Update:

Completed (mostly) the build this weekend and started the engine for the first time Saturday, 7/17/21. Fired right up on first turn of the key.

Left to do:
1. Exhaust system. Probably going to sub this task out.
2. Rebuild rear axle and add limited slip.
3. Monitor rear main seal for oil leak (may have botched the seal install). It was hard to install with the engine on the stand.

[Davidf]

New update:

Decided to have the exhaust shop tackle the leaking rear main seal. Turns out the crank has radial movement and the new seal still leaks, but not as bad. But, the new exhaust sounds pretty good, maybe a little on the quiet side (Flowmaster 50 series). Only thing they did wrong was choke (dent) left side pipe due to shifter linkage interference...

So, engine runs good but looses oil pressure when hot. My assumption is worn out crank bearings (probably cause of radial crank movement...you can see flywheel move when spinning).

Another problems is that my cruise control does not work. Used normally open controller with polarity reversing relays. When I push the set button, I can hear the relay...but nothing happens.

So, started my search for a replacement used engine. Don't feel like rebuilding what I have. So, how do you ensure you get a good used engine...pure luck? Thinking of taking my bore scope to salvage yards and peaking under the valve cover...if clean then winner winner chicken dinner.

[incoma]

Originally Posted by Davidf

Update:

In tank fuel pump is fabricated and mounted in tank. All fuel lines run...fuel system complete.
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All under hood wiring is complete and a/c lines fabricated and connected.

Left to complete: exhaust, complete in-cab wiring, install volt meter gauge, speedometer drive.

Where did you get the fittings for the wires to come out of your bulkhead? I've seen some folks terminate to studs, but I'd rather just run my wires through the bulkhead. Just not sure the best way to seal up the holes or what fittings to use.

Thanks.

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by incoma

Where did you get the fittings for the wires to come out of your bulkhead? I've seen some folks terminate to studs, but I'd rather just run my wires through the bulkhead. Just not sure the best way to seal up the holes or what fittings to use.

Thanks.

The fittings come with the pump. In case I did not mention previously...it is imperative that you cover the stock fuel tank in sound deadening material. Otherwise the pump will be too noisy in the cab. With sound deadening, it is barely even perceptible.

[LS short box]

I would pull the pan just to have a look. Also the front cover to check the timing chain. Maybe a new oil pump? Pull the valve covers to have look.

[bkhjeep]

I'd do a new timing chain, oil pump and trunion upgrade.

[Davidf]

Well, all good advice. But, I did all that to the previous engine all for naught. So, engine is super clean which I hope means it was well cared for with frequent oil changes. As such, I am leaving it alone. Cleaned it up, painted the block Chevy Orange, and will drop it in next weekend. The rear main seal is bone dry!

It also seems the rubber F body engine mounts settled a bit already and the oil pan is rubbing the drag link. So, I am switching to urethane engine mounts. I also noticed a drivetrain vibration at about 65mph and up. So, I need to check the driveline angles and adjust trans mount spacer. Otherwise…loving the LS

[LS short box]

Sounds like you making good progress. Sometimes two steps forward and one back but that's the fun thing about car/truck projects.

[Davidf]

I should have the replacement 5.3L running by Sunday! I went ahead and got rid of the rubber engine mounts and went with the Blackheart urethane mounts.

[Davidf]

Update:

Replacement salvage yard engine runs perfect and doesn't leak a drop. Now, my next task is to get the driveline angles within tolerable range/spec. The rear diff is pointing way too high.

[Davidf]

For documentation purposes. 4 degree shim perfectly aligned engine and diff. Resulting in 0.9 degree working angles front and rear u-joints.

[May70]

Do you have a picture of the clearance between the engine and firewall with the HOOKER BLACKHEART mounts?