06-02-2008, 12:22 PM | #101 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
I finally got back to doing a little work this weekend.
I finished up the fuel lines after some parts being back ordered. I also got the tranny and torque converter bolted in after having the wrong length of bolts and breaking one off because of the wrong torque specs. I set my new driver's seat in place ('99-07 silverado) to see what it's going to take to get it in. And then I started working on mounting up the DBW gas pedal. I ended up making a little sheet metal piece that the pedal assy can bolt to. I put it at an angle to avoid having the gas pedal too close to the brake, so that in an emergency, you don't slam on the brake and hit the gas at the same time. I think it will work good though. I'll get some pictures later. I'm still waiting on brake lines. I think it's been 6 weeks since I ordered them! |
06-03-2008, 11:23 AM | #102 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
I finally got my brake lines. They didn't come with the unions, so I'll have to go pick some of those up. I'll also probably go ahead and pull the engine to run the lines across the back of the cross member too.
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06-05-2008, 12:43 AM | #103 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
well funding has been approved through the house approapreation committee (my wife) so hopefully the truck will start to take shape a little quicker.
Basically since we're planning on having a baby sometime soon, and the fact that I hope Hot Rod Power Tour will come towards Seattle next year, my goal is to get it on the road by this time next year. In order for that to happen I've had to temorarily scale back some of the plans for now. It looks like I'll be running the 5.3L for awhile along with the stock 4L60E and torque converter. I also won't be getting the drag wheel/tires or big brakes right away (I'll still get the 20s though ) Oh, I also won't get the in car computer/navigation sound system I was planning on getting. (Although the other day I saw a stereo that will fit in the stock dash that has only a radio, and then a cord to control ipods, so that should work well in the mean time) So now I'm gonna be busting butt to get the rust repair done and get this bad boy to the paint shop. Obviously have some other things to get done before then too, but the rust repair is definatly the long leg. I got a little bit of the work done tonight. I got the rear cab corner support cut down to size, fit up, and welded in along the floor and inner rocker. Still gotta weld it to the existing support though. Not too bad for a few hours though. Oh yeah, I also scored a center console/seat on ebay tonight too. |
06-05-2008, 12:02 PM | #104 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
"""will fit in the stock dash that has only a radio, and then a cord to control ipods, so that should work well in the mean time"""
WHERE!!!!!.. I was thinking of getting one of those last night.... Let me know please. Does it have the ability to hook rcas to the radio so you can intall amps and what not? |
06-05-2008, 05:30 PM | #105 | |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
Quote:
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06-05-2008, 06:08 PM | #106 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
Come on now we need rusty pics as well as your shinny one's!
Also I have the Locar cable set up in LowBuck and it works good. Kevin LFD Inc. |
06-12-2008, 01:19 AM | #107 | |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
Quote:
I have the cab corner on, so the last peice to go on on the driver's side is the rocker panel. I put the door on to see how it all will fit up, and it doesn't look too bad. Considering this is my first rust repair/body work attempt, I don't think I'm doing too bad, and its nothing that can't be worked out with some body filler and high build primer. I'll get some pictures. So soon it will be on to working on the passenger side. I'm hoping with the experience of doing the driver's side, the pass. side will go a little quicker, and the quality will be a little better. On the chasis side of things, I got some parts today. I ended up getting ECE shock relocation brackets as well as KYB shocks from them. I figure they'll work for now. Eventually I'll go to QA1 adjustable shocks, but considerin the relocation brackets and all 4 shocks were the same price as one QA1, the KYBs will work for now. I also got a new guage bezel and a full assortment of Autometer Sport Comp Gauges. I was somewhat limited on my choice of guages, as I will be using a programable fuel guage since the sending unit in the F-body fuel tank is an oddball resistance range. I like the Ultralites I had in my 72, but wanted something different for this truck. So I decided on the Sport Comps. Oh, I'm also using an electric speedo. I also got a new 4 core radiator. I believe it will fit correctly, however it looks like it's a more modern version. It's aluminum tube/fins with plastic ends much like newer radiators are. I got it from the Radiator Barn, btw. I got a radiator for my 72 from there and I was happy with it (though it looked like the original, not aluminum). Let's see, I also ordered some other parts: battery tray to mount the battery behind the rear tire, batter cut off switch (required for racing if the battery is relocated), line lock solenoid, sport mirrors (the later style...70+ I think?). I also ordered a large tranny cooler that is back ordered. I'm planning on bypassing the in radiator cooler and just use this. Hopefully this will help keep my tranny alive with a high stall converter I'll be running eventually. Oh, I'll also need some longer u-bolts. I installed some lowering blocks when I did the shocks, so I could barely get the nuts threaded onto the u-bolts, but for sitting in the garage it's fine. So the rear suspension, fuel lines, and brake lines are installed. I'm going to cut one more hole in the frame for the gas filler neck to pass through, then it will be time to install the bed, so that I can tub it out and order wheels. BTW, here's what I'm planning on: 20x10s in the rear and 20x8.5 in front Oh, I almost forgot the best news of this week. I found out that I passed the PE, so all that studying that I did for 2 months was worth it!
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Project Bruiser: 68 Pro-Touring C-10 5.3L / 4L60E Project Ironhide: 97 GMC Crew Cab 4x4 Cummins SOLD: '69 GMC 1/2T SWB TBI'd: Project No Buck Assembly Manual Index Sign up Thread!!! Factory Service Manual Index Last edited by Ackattack; 06-12-2008 at 01:21 AM. |
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06-12-2008, 10:53 AM | #108 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
Congrats!
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
06-12-2008, 10:28 PM | #109 | |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
Quote:
I would still run the tranny lines through the radiator, especially with a high stall converter. Water cools better than air does, and heat is the number one enemy of auto trannys.
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06-13-2008, 12:35 AM | #110 | |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
Quote:
from what a lot of the racers and shops say, temps are cooler not running it throught the radiator. 210degree water tends to heat up the tranny fluid I guess. |
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06-23-2008, 12:58 PM | #111 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
Congradulations on passing the P.E. We had a guy in our office pass the P.E. and also one pass the F.E.
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07-10-2008, 10:14 PM | #112 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
Time for another update I guess: I'll get pictures up when I get to my computer that has them on it.
I got the driver's side sheet metal all welded on. I'm in search of a different driver's side door. The one I have isn't in as good of shape as I thought it was. On the passenger side I got the outer rocker panel removed. The pass. side door is in good shape, so I'll be able to use it. I modified the tranny crossmember to raise the transmission up. Originally I was planning on completely making a new one, but then I decided I could modify the stock one. So I removed the rivets that hold on the upper pieces, cut the upper pieces down so that the only part that is left of them is the part that sets inside the frame rail. Then I used a piece of square tubing and welded the two together. I also used another piece of tubing to raise the tranny hieght. This should give me room to run the exhaust up above the crossmember. I also pulled out the engine to swap over to the F-body oil pan. It gives a lot better ground clearance. I also enlarged the holes on the headers so they will bolt up. Some of the holes were not spaced quite exactly right, and I couldn't get all of the bolts in. Should be fixed now. I also got the brake lines ran across the front crossmember (couldn't really get them in there with the engine in the way). Torqued all of the front suspension / steering pieces. Need to grease them and I should be good to go on the front. Oh, I got the hole drilled in the frame for the gas filler tube to pass through. So now I believe I'm ready to put the bed on temporarily. Hopefully that will happen this weekend. Then I can start on the tubbing process and get the wheels ordered. I'll also fabricate the gas filler setup. The bed will have to come back off so I can do a few touch ups to the paint on the frame. So if you look back, I started on the tear down just over a year ago. I don't really feel like I've gotten very far in a whole year. I'm hoping its just things aren't quite put back together, and I have actually made a lot of progress. I guess we'll see though. Now that the frame / suspension / drivetrain is basically done, hopefully I can bust out the rest of the rust repair and body work and get it off to get some of the other things taken care of (state inspection for the different VINs on the cab/frame, exhaust installed, alignment, and paint) |
07-11-2008, 02:27 PM | #113 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
So here is a picture of the modified tranny crossmember:
A couple of the drivers side of the cab: Here's what I'm starting with on the passenger side: And here is the fuel lines at the tank: |
07-13-2008, 11:57 PM | #114 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
I set the bed on the frame today!
Here are some pictures: Airbags full: Airbags empty: |
07-14-2008, 08:06 AM | #115 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
Making good progress!
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07-18-2008, 05:08 PM | #116 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
Can you post more pics of the fuel tank setup and filler. I like what you did and don't like how low the blazer tank sits.. If you can post all angles, or email then to me.
Thanx. Trevor tk-mpl@shaw.ca |
07-18-2008, 06:35 PM | #117 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
who makes those wheels?
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07-18-2008, 07:43 PM | #118 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
GM....................................................JK, .
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07-18-2008, 09:02 PM | #119 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
Speedline
I'll go ahead and post some more pictures of the tank on here, so everyone can see if they're interested |
07-19-2008, 01:44 AM | #120 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
So here is probabably the best shot I have of the gas tank:
What I did was first move the rear most cross member back about an inch, then cut/grinded on the frame to clear the tank. Then I took some 2" wide aluminum strips and bent them to the contour of the tank. I bolted the one end to the rear cross member, then used long bolts on the next crossmember to draw the tank up and tight against the frame. I kept some of the foam padding that was originally on the take as cushioning too. The filler neck sits right in the frame rail, so I use a hole saw (2" I believe) and cut a hole for the rubber filler tube to pass through. I'll have to get a picture of this. Since I just got the bed on, I haven't finished where installing the filler tube. I'm actually not 100% sure where it's going to go. It really wasn't too hard to install the tank, once I had the tank in hand. Good luck. Oh, I got a little bit of work done yesterday. I began modifying my 70 GMC core support to be like the 68 chevy core support. I made a little pattern with some paper and pencil (rubbing) then drilled holes where the headlight adjusters pass though. Then I started cutting the corners of the holes to make them square with my dremel, but the battery died, so I'm not finished. I'll have to get pictures when I finish. |
07-19-2008, 10:35 PM | #121 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
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07-20-2008, 09:27 PM | #122 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
So I got some work done on the core support again. I finished up the square holes for the adjuster screws, and then welded in the holes where the GMC headlight buckets were spot welded to it. So now i have some clean up grinding to do, and sandblast, and then paint and it will be done.
Then I moved on to the wheel wells. I figured more people may be interested in this, so I posted it on the main page here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=300122 |
07-20-2008, 09:30 PM | #123 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
Nice work.....
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
07-21-2008, 06:30 AM | #124 |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
Looks good and yes the iner fender section mod would help tuck the tire alot. Their was a board member that had a few good shots of what he did on his a while back. I think it is the same guy who is doing the "Swingset" truck but it was his 68 he finished last year that he did the mod on. I am sure someone will post up a link here soon. Keep up the good work!
Kevin LFD Inc. |
07-21-2008, 08:52 AM | #125 | |
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Re: Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread
Quote:
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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