Starting my first build - 1966 C10

[Captainfab]

Yeah it looks like you didn't come out too good on that deal It's a good thing you decided to check it out. I've heard that using the 5.565 rods with the 350 pistons leave the pistons down in the hole a ways. Just something to consider if you need to replace some parts. Oh, and there isn't anything wrong with your calipers....those are 1.94 intake valves.....just a set of stock 882's

[jgh64pkup]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Oh, and there isn't anything wrong with your calipers....those are 1.94 intake valves.....just a set of stock 882's

i think that was sarcasm on the caliper part

[198plus]

With those stock flat top pistons with 76cc heads you will never get 9.5:1 compression.........Just a thought for you.

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I've heard that using the 5.565 rods with the 350 pistons leave the pistons down in the hole a ways.....those are 1.94 intake valves.....just a set of stock 882's

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by xratt

Is that bike a Blur? My buddy rides a few of those in Nor Cal. When i would visit him, we would ride for a week straight. He still has a V10, and a Heckler. I think he sold his Blur for a Ellesworth.

Anyway, I like your truck. Its the same colors as mine. Except mine has a white roof. My frame is good, but the body is packed with bondo. I tore mine down too. It's been 4 months. About 1 or 2 weeks from having it put back together. Good luck on yours!

Close - it's a Santa Cruz Juliana (women's version of the superlight). We have 10 bike between the two of us.

Ours has its fair share of bondo too! Looking forward to finished pics of yours!

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by jgh64pkup

um............
is the crank at least a 400 crank

That was the ONLY thing I verified before buying.

[jgh64pkup]

well at least u got the right crank

[Scot_Douglas]

Update:
Found a LWB stepside box in good condition and set it on the back (my wife likes stepsides more and was excited to see what it would look like).



Well, being as ignorant as I could be, I seem to have purchased an 89" bed (pre 60) and I need a 97".





So, I was thinking of either extending the cab or shortening the frame (frame'd be wayyyyy easier) - but I cant find any info on the shorter LWB stepside or its frame.

Help?

[gulfcoast66]

Extended Cab is the way to go!

[ratty 46]

I'm not a LWB step truck guy but .... I do think that in this case I too would extend the cab & take some of the front off that bed.

Ratty 46

[Scot_Douglas]

I don't need much.

I pilfered a chop on the net, and subjected it to my MSpaint skillz...

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by ratty 46

I'm not a LWB step truck guy but .... I do think that in this case I too would extend the cab & take some of the front off that bed.

Ratty 46

Bed stays unmolested. Cab gets longer or the frame gets shorter.

[Scot_Douglas]

Update!

Between keeping the woodstove hot and making Thanksgiving dinner, I started to tear into the 66.

Door off and removing the seat:


Sweet! Build sheet for my truck! :d:


Removed the "Bomb" from the passenger area. Fuel tank is getting relocated to the rear of the truck.


Very surprised to see this much structure left on a 44 y/o truck:


Note the shiny body-bolt; though it is pretty here, once I removed it, I found that it was "rusted down" to about half its original thickness. **** safety, anyway...


I really was happy with the floor - but it's hosed @ the door sill area:


About a 5lb clump of filler schticking the rear of the fender to the bracket. I couldn't get to all the bolts, so I zipped it off. Note: Cutoff wheel + ?? y/o bondo smells like poop. Literally.


A bit more room to work now...


Spotwelds marked for drilling,


Old vs. New


Inner rocker / floor rot


Cutting out rotted areas, more damn spotwelds and what-not:


Where it sits right now.



I need to get the rear cab corner cut off and see how it looks under the rust - the replacement floor panels I have go from the front cab seam, all the way to the rear cab corner. This side of the truck is awesome, compared to the other side - I may not have to use the full piece.

I don't think I'll be so lucky, though.


Came to a decision on the bed too: cutting 6" off the rear of the frame allows the bed to "fit" the frame (more or less, LOL) - and the wheels end up being set 3" too far back. Current planned solution is to redo the rear suspension with a 3-link and coilovers to scoot the axle 3" forward.

[Rich 5150 69]

Nice buildup Scot, ans welcome to the site sinse I missed your first login...

[Scot_Douglas]

Didn't get as much done as I wanted - had errands to run and I had to take some time to develop a plan on how I will go about replacing the sheet metal - and making a list of more parts to get as I find more rot.


I usually use an insulated mug for this - but, hey - Red Beer!


Rust cut out so far (doesn't include the piles of scale and grinding on the floor):


Hidden sheetmetal that needs replaced (remember me mentioning another parts order?)


Rear corner cut away and working on separating the floor from the cab support:


Floor and rockers set in place, waiting for final cut/fit and weld:


I love cleco fasteners.


Started taking apart the box to work on banging out the dents and seeing what needs work. This is where I left off last night.




Gotta take this afternoon off and go cut and split more wood - it's starting to get cold.

[Cops053]

Well , a nice find...with all the hidden surprises.....gonna look good when done.

Looking for a MIG welder to get the party started - Though some research on the H.A.M.B. led me to THIS.

As for the above..I bought one a few yrs ago, think I might have used it twice, it cuts well, but could never get a good bead to run with it, so went back to just using my mig. Hope you have better luck

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by Cops053

Well , a nice find...with all the hidden surprises.....gonna look good when done.

Looking for a MIG welder to get the party started - Though some research on the H.A.M.B. led me to THIS.

As for the above..I bought one a few yrs ago, think I might have used it twice, it cuts well, but could never get a good bead to run with it, so went back to just using my mig. Hope you have better luck

Change my mind on that - just going to be patient with "easy-grind" wire - since I made that post, I picked up a miller 180C MIG and a set of O/A tanks & torches.

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by Rich 5150 69

Nice buildup Scot, ans welcome to the site sinse I missed your first login...

Hey Rich! Thanks!

[ratty 46]

Nice project .... looks like a lot of metal work will be needed. Appears that your up to the task though.

I'll keep watching.

Ratty 46

[Scot_Douglas]

Not much more done, but I did spend some of Saturday night stripping it down.

(yes, those are motorcycles on a shelf in my garage)





Driver's side - creative fiberglass work. I'm interested to see what's hidden by this. Thankfully, I have the repair panels for this side too:


S-10 T-5: no more granny gear and the overdrive will work nice with my 3.73 rear end:

[Scot_Douglas]

Update:

Transmission coming out soon:


Windows out and more stripped off the truck:


About half the rot cut out of the driver's side floor:


And...this shot is in relief. No rust


Trans coming out through the cab:


Sum***** weighs about 200#:


Pulling the motor:


Hoisting the cab off of the frame:


Temporary spot for the cab:


Bed off, International Scout II tank to replace the bomb in the cab:


Bed up on end, determining centerline of frame:


Front end is off 1.25" to the passenger side:


Now to see if I can straighten the frame myself, or if I should take it somewhere....

[LT1 Burb]

Holy crap, that frame is way off. Too bad you were'nt closer to Oregon, the last frame I had went to the scrap yard because no one wants them here.

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by LT1 Burb

Holy crap, that frame is way off. Too bad you were'nt closer to Oregon, the last frame I had went to the scrap yard because no one wants them here.

LOL, thanks for rubbing my nose in it.

I can't find one closer than a 4 hour drive, and it's $400 (though looks to be in nice shape). Just called around to some frame shops and have gotten rough estimates of $600 - $800 to fix this one.

I'm trying to find out if I find a SWB frame - if I can add some more on the back to make it fit mine.

[Scot_Douglas]

No pictures for this update;

The bare frame is now on the garage floor - I cut off / unbolted the F&R suspensions last night. Did I ever mention how the quality of one's life (in the garage) is directly proportional to the amount of correct tools are on hand for a project?

Not to mention, a fridge full 'o PBR.

I need to call around and start pricing steel today. I decided to just build my own frame to replace this one.

[custom63]

Great start to a cool build. Keep the pics and progress coming.

[Scot_Douglas]

Okay, full custom frame idea has been jettisoned in favor of a "new" 1964 rolling chassis I found.
Here's the donor: