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[Motherfrog402]

Originally Posted by Titomars

I don't have any photos of them but they are a simple contact switch. The test is to jump across the two terminals. Disconnect the harness connector and jump the 2 wires to test the start circuit. The switch completes the circuit when the pedal is depressed. If this does not help trace the wires from the PO's start button. I can not even guess how the PO wired in the push button start switch. Most likely the push button was done to bypass a problem that he could not figure out. I would assume at least one wire to it was a purple lead. But there is no telling what some people do when it comes to wiring.

I seem to remember GM first started using clutch start switches around 1972 or 1973.

Oh what he did was a doozy! He took two long blue wires, hooked them up to the push button switch, ran them out the firewall and connected them to the solenoid directly, one on the resistor wire pole and one on the purple wire pole.

I get the feeling that the switch is no bueno, because there is nothing on there that connects to the clutch pedal itself. I imagine it looks something like the brake light switch...this thing is just there.

Let me go take a pic real quick and I'll post it, to show you what I'm dealing with.

[Motherfrog402]

Okay, clutch start switch is broken. You can clearly see it. Should I mention that the original P.O. (God rest his soul) owned a car repair shop?

[Motherfrog402]

For those of you who might have the same issue as I, the BWD part # is S26383, $9.99 at O'Reilly Auto Parts.

It's for a P20, but I think I can make it work. I couldn't find a thing for the C20.

[Titomars]

yes the clutch start switch is broken there is a plastic shaft with a hook end on it that fits the hole in the pedal.

Why doesn't that surprise me. LOL

If you delete the push button and convert what he did back to stock. It should start with a jumper connected to the 2 purple wires at the clutch switch. if you make a jumper wire and connect it you could if you so desire just leave it and the truck would be like any vehicle before clutch start switches were installed.

[Motherfrog402]

Okay, I ran a jumper wire and connected both of the purple wires together and the truck turns over, success! The bad news is that the part number I quoted for the P20 will not work because the leads are on the wrong side. so, until I find a new old stock unit on eBay, I'll just run it with the jumper wire in place and get rid of the push button starter . I really can't stand Mickey Mouse wiring.

[Motherfrog402]

For that matter, I just saw what the part should look like....GM was/is a bunch of cheap a$$es...all plastic????

[Titomars]

Personally I hate the things. They are worse than those stupid buzzers to me. I have deleted the switch in every GM vehicle I have owned through the years. I pull the switch then clip the wires free of the connector and splice them together. Problem solved and I never have looked back

[Motherfrog402]

I never even thought about it, considering our CJs don't have them. Running a spade jumper will work....if you ever followed my build thread on JF, you know how analretentive I am about keeping things original.

Thanks for the help. I would have been chasing my tail on this one.

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Motherfrog402

I never even thought about it, considering our CJs don't have them. Running a spade jumper will work....if you ever followed my build thread on JF, you know how analretentive I am about keeping things original.

Thanks for the help. I would have been chasing my tail on this one.

I hear you buddy. I am also that way on a lot of things, just not some things. sometimes my boys just shake their heads at me. LOL clutch safety switches are not in the realm of keep it original for me.
Want to hear one thing I am totally anal-retentive about...... Keys, Both my truck and my CJ have 2 sets of factory keys. I spent way more than most people just to have it that way. It took forever finding factory AMC blanks to get me a set of real keys. LOL

Oh and you are very welcome! i'm happy to help.

[Motherfrog402]

Originally Posted by Titomars

I hear you buddy. I am also that way on a lot of things, just not some things. sometimes my boys just shake their heads at me. LOL clutch safety switches are not in the realm of keep it original for me.
Want to hear one thing I am totally anal-retentive about...... Keys, Both my truck and my CJ have 2 sets of factory keys. I spent way more than most people just to have it that way. It took forever finding factory AMC blanks to get me a set of real keys. LOL

Oh and you are very welcome! i'm happy to help.

I have original AMC keys too...took forever to find those boogers...had to buy the lock cylinder to go with them.

This C20 had the original keys with the knock out plugs still in them...I had two sets of original GM keys made, after I found them on eBay. Funny thing is that my ignition key is an "E"....according to the Manual, it's supposed to be a "K".

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Motherfrog402

I have original AMC keys too...took forever to find those boogers...had to buy the lock cylinder to go with them.

This C20 had the original keys with the knock out plugs still in them...I had two sets of original GM keys made, after I found them on eBay. Funny thing is that my ignition key is an "E"....according to the Manual, it's supposed to be a "K".

That's pretty normal the trucks cylinder was changed With a GM service replacement sometime in the past.
My truck still had one set with the knock outs still in them too. But I rekeyed the truck to use the square key for ignition,doors, and glove box.

[Motherfrog402]

NOS turn signal switch; installed.

Very nice used steering wheel; installed.

Replacement door jamb switches installed; interior lights now work.

Fel-Pro engine gasket kit arrived today; I'm going to have a family friend, who is a mechanic, install them, because I don't have the back strength to lift the intake/exhaust manifolds out. Plus, I owe him for a favor he did for me.

Engine compartment wiring cleaned up, wrapped.

Cab to engine ground reinstalled; it was just hanging there.

Found that the ground wire bolt to the driver's tail light was loose; I'll need to install a bolt with nut, because the hole is a bit stripped.

Next project is to find out why my reverse lights aren't working. I haven't crawled underneath, to see if the harness is plugged in. If it is, then I'll replace the switch.

Still waiting for the HEI distributor to show up. In the meantime, I'll pop the spark plugs out and re-gap them. IIRC, the gap for HEI is .045", correct?

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Motherfrog402

I'll pop the spark plugs out and re-gap them. IIRC, the gap for HEI is .045", correct?

.045" is considered the all around best gap for an HEI. It is all I run my HEI equipped engines.

[Motherfrog402]

The distributor came in today. I gapped the plugs to .045", got the dizzy in the ballpark and it fired on the first try. I timed it to 10 degrees BTDC...does that sound about right? I've got a bit of popping on deceleration, but it's not too bad.

[Motherfrog402]

Also, I have the dizzy hooked up to ported vacuum...should I run it to manifold vacuum instead?

I'm guessing that the popping noise is probably due to the exhaust manifold leaking like a sieve.

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Motherfrog402

Also, I have the dizzy hooked up to ported vacuum...should I run it to manifold vacuum instead?

I'm guessing that the popping noise is probably due to the exhaust manifold leaking like a sieve.

One of my manuals calls for 8 deg with HEI in 75. So if it were mine 10 deg is where I'd start. You should run manifold vacuum. Ported Vacuum is for smog minded engines. Your off idle and low speed acceleration will be much better with manifold vacuum.

[Motherfrog402]

I really miss my 402....this 292 is gutless. When Renee goes to college, I'm dropping a 454 in this pig.

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Motherfrog402

I really miss my 402....this 292 is gutless. When Renee goes to college, I'm dropping a 454 in this pig.

There's no replacement for displacement.

[Motherfrog402]

Originally Posted by Titomars

There's no replacement for displacement.

No, there really isn't. I'm so used to driving my 6.0 F350 that, when I get into this one, it's almost disappointing. Even my CJ has more nuts. Of course it does weigh considerably less, so the power to weight ratio is good there.

[Hankster]

You will love a bb in a square! Believe me.. lol