Daddyjeep Hauler - 85 K30 crew cab short bed

[Chevy_mud_truck]

I done a Google search and found a YouTube video of a guy cutting a 83 crew cab down its a three part video you might want to check out he explains some issues he found while getting ready to cut the front doing a z cut and he only cut 3 and 1/2 inches of the end of the frame he done a pretty good job on it loos good might check it out might get some helpful tip

[daddyjeep]

Originally Posted by Chevy_mud_truck

I done a Google search and found a YouTube video of a guy cutting a 83 crew cab down its a three part video you might want to check out he explains some issues he found while getting ready to cut the front doing a z cut and he only cut 3 and 1/2 inches of the end of the frame he done a pretty good job on it loos good might check it out might get some helpful tip

Thanks, I was planning on doing some more research before I got myself to the point of no return.

[wildwilly4x4]

14" is correct. I have cut several, and while I can agree that the "Z" cut is arguably better, I have always done a straight square cut, and fishplate on the inside of the frame rail. I have never had issues with any of them being fatigue points or anything else. its much easier to make a precise straight cut (at least for me), due to the location of the forward spring hanger and trying to fit a saw in there to cut exactly where I want.

I always make my cut about an inch or so behind the front bed mount holes. IIRC you can measure it out pretty close to where the rear gas tank mount holes will not interfere with the splice, but its pretty close. I think on my last one the gas tank holes were very close to the splice.

I think I usually only take 4" or so off of the rear, or you can not the bed lip and leave the frame rails sticking out for more bumper mount material.

[daddyjeep]

The more reading I do, the more I am thinking about a 45 cut. I watched the videos mentioned above and read a few other threads and don't see huge benefits of doing the "Z" cut. Can anyone argue differently? I should be cutting this weekend.

[Chevy_mud_truck]

I've weld frames in all three z/45/ and straight cuts and never had a problem with any of them I just prefer to use the z and if it's not possible to use a z I like a 45 and I only use a straight as a last option if room or the frame shape dose not make it possible I actually went and looked at a truck for the cab and it was a wrecker at one time and it was cut straight with no fish plates (which I don't recommend) the only extra support was piece3x3 1/4wall squad tube welded to the top rail for the wrecker bed to clear the step up in the frame it was a 89 crewcab that was a wrecker scene 91 and the truck was just parked about 5 years ago when the bed was put on a 4x4 truck with all that being said as long as you clean good and get good penetrating weld and plate the inside with a fish plate I don't ever see you haven a problem

[daddyjeep]

I fired up the coal stove and the wood stove in the shop on Saturday and spent the day cutting up my truck. Since it was 0 degrees with a 20 mph wind I had no intentions of doing anything outside. I ended up going with the 45 cut starting 3" behind the front bed mount hole in the frame. I guess the pic is from 1" behind the hole, but by moving back to 3" I had more room to cut at the bottom without as much interference from the cab.

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No turning back now.

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One side burned mostly in, the other just has a few good tacks. I ran out of welding wire so this is where I stopped. I still need to cut up some 3/16" for fish plates and burn everything in.

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Before

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After

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[daddyjeep]

Oh yea...Shop Tip of the Day....notice the scissor Jack under the frame. If you don't have a couple of these around the shop you should go get some. They are perfect for aligning the frame and many other things. The ones with a hex bolt on the end are better because you can use the impact.

[Chevy_mud_truck]

Looks good I'm still interested in the pieces you cut out

[daddyjeep]

I got some more wire and at least finished welding the seams while I waited for a buddy to shown up last night. I'm going to Motorama tomorrow so I probably won't get a whole lot done this weekend.

[daddyjeep]

Hey JW76, I can't send you a PM because your box is full. Send me a message when you get it cleaned up.

[daddyjeep]

wow, two weekends in a row where I didn't get much done. I shot pool in three different towns this weekend so no time in the shop. I did at least get some grinding done Friday night and got 1 fish plate burned in.

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Yes, I know what you are thinking. I have seen better welds too. It is impossible to get a comfortable position up in there.

[daddyjeep]

Got the rear completely disassembled finally.

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I then spent a couple more hours with the wire wheel on the grinder. I really should consider a dust mask when I do that crap. I think I am still coughing up rust. Aside from the abuse to my lungs, the rear of the frame is just about ready for paint. I also started wire wheeling the leaf packs.

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Any thoughts on how many leaves to remove? Since I am no longer going to be a dually and have no intentions of having massive payloads in this thing I am going to soften up the rear a little. I am thinking removing 4 of the 10 leaves out of the main pack and retaining the overload pack in case I do load here down a bit. Does this seem out of line to anyone???

[MTCK]

Nice work. Can you figure out the tongue weight from your trailer? I'd try to replicate that and then take some measurements to make sure you are level. My rear springs in my v3500 were hammered, and it sagged empty. I think the wear on your springs would make it hard to know how many to remove without a little trial and error. Leave the big overload on the bottom and make sure no leafs are broken above it.

[daddyjeep]

Originally Posted by MTCK

Nice work. Can you figure out the tongue weight from your trailer? I'd try to replicate that and then take some measurements to make sure you are level. My rear springs in my v3500 were hammered, and it sagged empty. I think the wear on your springs would make it hard to know how many to remove without a little trial and error. Leave the big overload on the bottom and make sure no leafs are broken above it.

I agree, it will most likely take some trial and error. I may run a small block if necessary to get the ride height where it needs to be. Thanks for the input.

[COS399]

Nice work. I will be following along.

[NastyBuzzard]

Looking good! I just shortened my 88 crew cab but I still have to fish plate it. Couldn't reach it all with the stick welder so I have to borrow my dads mig setup at some point.

[daddyjeep]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

Looking good! I just shortened my 88 crew cab but I still have to fish plate it. Couldn't reach it all with the stick welder so I have to borrow my dads mig setup at some point.

It was a pain with the mig too. Life would be so much easier with a lift.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by daddyjeep

It was a pain with the mig too. Life would be so much easier with a lift.

I definitely agree with that. Do you know what people do about shortening the park brake cable?

[daddyjeep]

No, I haven't looked into the e-brake yet. It's just a cable, I'm sure I can come up with something.

[daddyjeep]

Spent the afternoon with some POR15 products. I used the metal prep on all of the springs and related components and on the back half of the frame.

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Then on to the POR15 black.


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[daddyjeep]

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[daddyjeep]

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[Gregski]

man some serious fab going on in here - nice!

[MTCK]

Looks great.

[Chevy_mud_truck]

Por 15 is great just make sure you put a top coat of paint on it if you want it to stay glossy