TA_C10: Stage 1

[68Gold/white]

A bunch of your pictures in post 65 did not show up...

Are you grinding the welds down with the flap wheel? or just using the flap wheel for final smoothing?

What welding technique has worked best for you? What heat setting has worked best for you? Welding rust is sooo much fun

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

A bunch of your pictures in post 65 did not show up...

Are you grinding the welds down with the flap wheel? or just using the flap wheel for final smoothing?

What welding technique has worked best for you? What heat setting has worked best for you? Welding rust is sooo much fun

Interesting, I can see all the pics, maybe try to refresh the page? Let me know if you still can't see them.

Yeah I pretty much just use the 36 grit / 40 grit flap wheels from harbor freight to getting the majority of the welds down. Then I finish them off with 36 or 80 grit air grinder discs.

What welding technique do you mean? I like hitting the previous weld then dragging the puddle with me. But usually I'm hitting the tack welds so fast there is no dragging.

I will look at my welder settings tomorrow and let you know what voltage and wire speed im using. It's pretty close to the panel settings on the welder lid. And my polarity is set to positive + polarity, not negative.

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[TA_C10]

Finishing touches on the under side of floor pan...


Well I finally finished the floor pan. All the supports are burned in and today I sealed up the old floor shifter hole and and old fuel tank holes. Got everything cleaned up and a little weld thru primer over the welds to hold it steady while I flip the cab back over and plant it on the frame rails tomorrow.

I can't wait to show you guys the jig I am building to pick the cab up with the cherry picker. It's gonna make this a one man show with ease. Cost me $20 to make this thing.

The trans tunnel turned out better than I thought even though it doesn't look like it in the pictures. I still need to dolly out the bumps but it ended up fitting pretty well after I thought I cut too much off my patch. I like to start on one end and then start stretching the piece to fit.







This is as good as its gonna get right here. a little primer, little seam sealer, lizard skin, this thing will be good as gone.





Fuel tank holes filled...













And here it is finished. When I finish all the rest of metal work it will get flipped back over, cleaned, scuffed, and e-primed then lizard skinned with ceramic coating. I'm wondering if I shouldn't just remove all the leftover dynomat and just lizard skin the inside too. We'll see... I either need to buy more dynomat or a bucket of sound deadner lizard skin to go with the ceramic lizard skin.




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[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

A bunch of your pictures in post 65 did not show up...

Are you grinding the welds down with the flap wheel? or just using the flap wheel for final smoothing?

What welding technique has worked best for you? What heat setting has worked best for you? Welding rust is sooo much fun

Fixed the picture that had a broken link. Thanks for bringing that to my attention

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

A bunch of your pictures in post 65 did not show up...

Are you grinding the welds down with the flap wheel? or just using the flap wheel for final smoothing?

What welding technique has worked best for you? What heat setting has worked best for you? Welding rust is sooo much fun

Here you go!

The dials are at 5.5 arc volts and 45 wire speed.




A review on the Lotos 140 on youtube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X08bq_qniY0


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