1980 Chevy C10 - Ugly but Functional

[MikeB]

Wow! And I thought going from a 250-six and manual trans to a 350/TH350 was a lot of work. Great job!

Just FYI, when you get around to replacing the wiring with a generic harness, I highly recommend an American Autowire kit. I used their "Power Plus 20" kit. https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/power-plus-20-kit

Got it on sale and had a discount at Summit Racing, so paid around $260 for it. The materials (including GXL-rated wire), diagrams, and e-mail & phone support were first rate. The kit even includes their #510476 charging circuit kit with 6 gauge wire, terminals, and two maxi-fuses and holders.

I did need to buy a instrument cluster connector, because I didn't want to re-use the old one. Also had to reuse/modify washer/wiper wiring and connectors. There's also a few other gotchas, but the kit has circuits to spare!

The fuse panel will bolt directly into the factory holes on the firewall, but I made a plate to cover the OE hole. I also used standoffs on the inside for more room between panel wires and firewall. The distribution stud in the picture is something I added to feed the ignition switch and IGN fuse panel bus independently. The stud is fed by an 8 gauge wire, instead of the 10 gauge wire in the kit.

[skyphix]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Wow! And I thought going from a 250-six and manual trans to a 350/TH350 was a lot of work. Great job!

Just FYI, when you get around to replacing the wiring with a generic harness, I highly recommend an American Autowire kit. I used their "Power Plus 20" kit. https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/power-plus-20-kit

Got it on sale and had a discount at Summit Racing, so paid around $260 for it. The materials (including GXL-rated wire), diagrams, and e-mail & phone support were first rate. The kit even includes their #510476 charging circuit kit with 6 gauge wire, terminals, and two maxi-fuses and holders.

I did need to buy a instrument cluster connector, because I didn't want to re-use the old one. Also had to reuse/modify washer/wiper wiring and connectors. There's also a few other gotchas, but the kit has circuits to spare!

The fuse panel will bolt directly into the factory holes on the firewall, but I made a plate to cover the OE hole. I also used standoffs on the inside for more room between panel wires and firewall. The distribution stud in the picture is something I added to feed the ignition switch and IGN fuse panel bus independently. The stud is fed by an 8 gauge wire, instead of the 10 gauge wire in the kit.

Thanks Mike! The picture wont load but thats OK - and thanks for the recommendation on a new wiring kit. This truck definitely needs it. It was originally 250 i6/3 speed, when I bought it it was 350/TH350, now its LS-based 5.3/4L80E. It also had a stereo hacked into it at one point, and it was a DOT/highway department truck for most of its life, so I imagine it had lights/etc at one point as well. Just a lot of terrible wiring. I am using a tablet for a gauge cluster so I'm not using any of the original gauge cluster except the fuel gauge for now (eventually will replace that as well.) I'd like to do a sheet metal dash plate, eventually.

I think I'd end up heavily modifying a factory replacement harness, but ultimately it will be the easiest way to get high quality wiring, connectors, and fuse box. I'm also going to add a secondary fuse block specifically for accessories in the truck down the road (specifically, USB charging ports and additional gauge lighting.) $260 is a much better price than I was expecting.

[skyphix]

Well, a bit of deflating news - took my driveshaft in to be shortened and somehow I had completely missed that it was dented. So, completely new driveshaft is getting built this afternoon and I should be able to pick it up tonight or early next week. $322 out the door instead of $125... but all heavy duty components, no more tapered ends (full 3.5" diameter, old one tapered at the ends)

That said, buttoned up the underhood wiring (just need to put some loom around it, then wrap the starter and main power wires with reflective tape, which I have here,) going to FINALLY install the fuel system this afternoon, even if temporarily just to hear it run. We (like most of the country) have some weather coming in - 2-4" of snow tonight, more Sunday into Monday. Going to be wet and cold working on it, but only a few things left before I can drive it...


Happy Thanksgiving!

[skyphix]

Roller coaster day. New driveshaft was done by 2pm. And they built me one that will last me forever, and fully upgradeable as power levels grow.




Pressure tested all my fuel lines. First time making AN lines so was sure I’d have a leak somewhere. Nope. Flawless (as long as I remembered to tighten the fittings when I installed them.)

I mean, I was so close, I had to just finish the job...

https://youtu.be/r-xofqe-DgQ

So it runs. I have a handful of cleanup tasks to do to get it good enough to drive a bit this winter.

[skyphix]

Fuel tank is mounted and fuel lines are run - need to shorten the main fuel feed line by quite a bit, which I'll do today.

Got the driveshaft hooked up - was just being dumb about needing shorter strap bolts. Just need to get them started before I full seat the U joint.

Got the shift linkage hooked up last night - had to shorten and bend the shift rod, and flip the lock nut backwards, but it hits at least PRND reliably. I will probably want to do something better ultimately (maybe floor shifter or something) but it works for the time being and gets me driving.

We are about to get hit with a pretty good snow storm so I am trying to button everything up on the underside of the truck today, besides exhaust. Only thing I have left under the truck is to clean up and wrap some wiring that runs near the exhaust manifold, wire up the fuel level sender and secure that and the fuel power wire, secure the fuel filter and fuel lines, and trans cooler lines.

Then its just cooling system, heater, and exhaust.

[skyphix]

Little candid shot from last week... my 11 year old step daughter helping me measure for the new driveshaft. She's been super interested and involved in this project, and its been awesome. Both my step daughters are really excited for me to start driving this heap! (Yes, I know I'm supposed to measure it flat on the ground... but I can't fit under it flat on the ground, so I did the best I could. Worked out for me this time!)

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by skyphix

(Yes, I know I'm supposed to measure it flat on the ground... but I can't fit under it flat on the ground, so I did the best I could. Worked out for me this time!)

Setting the car on jack stands under the rear axle tubes does the same thing!

[skyphix]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Setting the car on jack stands under the rear axle tubes does the same thing!

Thats what my logic told me, so thats what I did! Its been that way since April or so of this year. New driveshaft fits perfect - about an inch of stick out in the trans Yoke end with a good 4-5" of engagement in the tail housing.

[skyphix]

Christmas has put a little pause on this, financially... well, that and needing tires and a battery on one of our current dailies, and a battery in my work vehicle. Down to the final stuff. Need to assemble the radiator mount and run some trans cooler lines. The braided cooler line kit I got uses some of the worst quality AN fittings I've ever seen, and sent a very odd assortment (three 90 degrees and a straight) - so my routing will be funky. One straight over the top of the passenger valve cover/coil assembly, and the return routed around the engine bay. Both will go through the trans tunnel to the ports though. Decided to do a super simple dump down for the exhaust. Dual 2.5" glasspacks for this year until I know exactly what the higher performance engine will end up having for manifolds/headers, then I'll have the race shop fab up a dual 3" with an X and some higher quality mufflers, out the rear of the truck. No cats at all.

It hasn't died, and I can start it like a new car right now... just much to the chagrin of my neighbors.

[skyphix]

Health and weather finally cooperating. Knocked out the exhaust, partly. Learning to weld and fabricate exhaust has been interesting. I used stubs cut off of a factory truck Y pipe, 45 degree elbows, and a little toying around to get the fitment. Nailed the passenger side... drivers side I missed the angle but I'll fix that as soon as its not snowing or raining.


Ignore the fuel line and filter hanging down... just havent mounted it yet. Not positive I love the routing but it might just have to do for now.




Ignore the super ugly booger welds... it doesnt leak and this is temporary. I'll pie cut the bend and bend it up and outward so it goes straight along the truck and tucked up inside the frame rail. I know it will reduce the diameter of the tubing at the bend but, again, just a temporary solution to get it on the road.

[skyphix]

Exhaust is good enough to get it to the shop



Put together the engine compartment. Radiator and fans temporarily held in with zip ties while I build an appropriate upper mount



And an obligatory video
https://youtu.be/KIYlBSADm3A

[skyphix]

https://youtu.be/nWyB34SdS9U

Maiden Voyage... still some to do like get the right fittings for the trans cooler lines at the radiator end, have a shop finish up the exhaust, change the oil and filter, tighten up the parking brake, tuck the wiring. But I can drive it around the neighborhood now! Pretty big milestone for me.


And yes, it finally does burnouts. Video once I have a trans cooler and fresh oil. I just did a half second power brake in the driveway to make sure it would do them.

[skyphix]

Cruises as good as the whooped suspension will let it at 65mph. Drivetrain feels smooth and stable. With the open 2.76 gears and rock hard pizza cutter tires, it will do burnouts into 3rd gear. Thats as fast as I was comfortable going with a tire spinning.

I put the front back together, mostly. Its still ugly, but at least it looks complete-ish now.





A few new issues;
Gas gauge isn't working - thinking I might just need to run a new signal or get an aftermarket gauge and wire it directly. The factory gauge is pegged at empty with a half tank in it. Aftermarket gauge would let it be lighted and set me up for the dash-less future.

New found power means my rear diff meets the frame quite often. I'll be doing spring packs this winter, if not before. I have airshocks here that just need a line kit, so those might get thrown back on for the time being since road construction means I basically offroad this every time I drive it.



Also, totally in love with the 5.3/LS swap. It took a while, but the next one will go a LOT faster. Its not even the same truck anymore. It starts every time, drives perfectly, has plenty of power, and really is fun to rip on now.


New wheels and tires this weekend.

[skyphix]

Was trying to hold out for a better location for better photos, but it isn't looking like thats going to happen soon, so here they are.








Two different wheels, because I bargain hunted. Same style - just gloss vs. matte. I'll fix that later.

Wheels
Rear: Pro Comp 7973 in Flat (more like matte) - 17x9 with 4.5" backspacing
Front: Vision 85 Soft 8 - 17x8 with 4" of backspacing

Tires
Rear: 275/60/17
Front: 235/60/17

I wish I'd had gone with 235/65/17 for the front, or 255/60/17. I played it safe since the front is getting lowered further. I used cheap tires to make sure they'd fit for now - so I'll run these until I burn them bald and then get something nicer then. I have less than $600 all around in wheels and tires, all new. I do need new lug nuts still.



Next up is I think finally hooking up the trans cooler. Haven't really driven it much at all without that hooked up, though my test rip up to 65 and a lengthy burnout and the trans temps held steady around 160. Im pretty sure once the cooler is in, they'll stay down around 100-120. Need to wire up my fans too, and the brake switch so that the torque converter unlocks properly. It pushes pretty hard coming to a stop until the converter unlocks.


Then installing the front lowering springs. The new wheel and tire package has really highlighted how nose high it is, and is giving me motivation to get the stance right.

[skyphix]

I've got about 15 miles on the truck now, so its time to go through everything and make sure its all still tight and good. I am getting some weird ticks and clangs from underside - hard to tell if its my exhaust, the parking brake cables/linkages, torque converter bolts, trans crossmember, or what, so I'm going to throw it back up in the air and go through the whole thing.


This weeks list of hope to accomplish;

Needs
Retorque all TC bolts, starter bolts
Adjust exhaust and get some kind of hangers on it
Figure out how I am going to hook up the parking brake with the exhaust tucked up tight
Drill 3rd and 4th bolt hole for the trans crossmember
Trim an unneeded ear off of the 4L80E TC access cover and bolt that on
Hook up the trans cooler
Wire in fans
Connect heater core (looped right now, and the loop has a kink in it)
Wire in brake switch
Hook up oil pressure gauge
Buy and install a fuel gauge


Wants
Clean up old wiring even more (found a ton more phantom wires under the dash)
Paint some surfaces that have 4 or 5 layers of paint or rust.
New floor pans
Lowering springs

[skyphix]

House projects kept me busy all weekend, but something sort of boring and mundane did get done. Wired in the horns and a button temporarily mounted to the dash on its own standalone fused/relayed circuit. For various reasons, this ended up making more sense than making the horn button on the aftermarket steering wheel work with factory wiring that has been hacked badly.

Sub-harness for the factory horn and two Hella horns mounted behind the grill. Still need to wire wrap and grommet and everything.




Mounted to the dash for now.


Its... loud, and one step closer to passing inspection. This is the first stage of a "race dash" style dash setup.



I also trimmed and started cleaning up the access cover for the trans, started laying out an exhaust path that works better than what I've got now (need to bend out around the parking brake bracket on the drivers side) - hopefully can knock out some items this week.

[skyphix]

I got the exhaust tied up. Mechanics wire hangers for the time being, but it clears everything and exits out in front of the rear wheels. Not having any way to bend tubing besides cutting/pie cutting/welding was actually a blessing. My welding is still ugly but its getting better and better.

I've put about 50 miles on the truck now. Its not fast, but its spunky and faster than the suspension and brakes really should be responsible for controlling in the condition they're in. Open diff, but it will spin one of the 275/60/17 into second gear, which was one of the goals for this truck.

Its my daily driver at this point while I keep ticking off small things. Far from perfect, but probably the most reliable and leak free vehicle in my fleet right now. I am a consultant/engineer and have been having to go on-site again quite a bit lately, this was yesterday in 90+ degree heat with humidity.




Coolant temps stayed below 195 and trans temps stayed below 160, despite having only one electric fan hooked up. Glad I went with the large radiator.

[LT7A]

Sounds like the inspection must have gone well. Getting to DD status represents a lot of progress.

[skyphix]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Sounds like the inspection must have gone well. Getting to DD status represents a lot of progress.

Yeah, our state has suspended registration requirements and I haven't been able to get into the town office, and without a valid registration you can't get an inspection. That said, I did have the shop that does my inspections check it over... just need to patch a couple holes in the floorpans and hook up a high beam indicator light. Floor pans are happening this winter anyway, and I have the high beam indicator here, just haven't installed it yet.

I am just happy that its functioning safely and reliably at this point!

[skyphix]

Been driving the truck around on the regular. Insanely happy with the swap, and impressed with myself that I got it to this point. I have zero fear jumping in and going pretty much anywhere with it at this point. It still has a few obvious warts;

1) Still need to replace the steering column bushing
2) My PCM and fuse box are just sitting in the passenger footwell right now - need to tuck those up behind the dash. I am going to let them live in my glove box until I do all the body work and will have the entire dash out, then I'll properly mount them up behind the dash.
3) I really need to bite the bullet and buy HPTuners - the tune isn't quite right but its good enough to drive and be reliable.
4) The previous owner didn't install the wheel bearings correctly so they're all making some noise now. I had some weird steering behavior and I chalked it up to worn out bushing and lived with it, but the passenger side spindle nut was LOOSE. Not even finger tight. Like rattling around loose, and the wheel/hub could be moved 1/16". Re-doing the torque sequence on that side made it drive 100% better. I ordered up a new set of rotors and pads, as well as new inner and outer wheel bearings, grease seals, and a nut and pin for the hub. Was going to install them today but its pouring rain/thunder/lightning right now.
5) Its got a little shimmy on the highway - not like parts breaking level, or dangerous, just noticeable. It had it before I did the swap too, so I am thinking its probably axle bearings or something since everything else including the wheels and tires are changed now. I'll still verify driveshaft angles and everything but I am hoping to get limited slip installed and setup, and all new bearings in the rear end this fall or next spring.
6) Heater core cracked, so I have the lines looped right now.

I had an issue with the PSI fan harness kit constantly blowing fuses - its a 30a and only running one fan so it should be more than enough. No shorts or anything. Instead of assembling my connector with the supplied stuff or digging through my wiring pile to find the connectors from the two parts vehicles I've had, I had purchased a new connector. I cheaped out, didn't go with the GM/AC Delco one, and it introduced too much resistance. They were made with 12g wiring, which wasn't enough on initial startup of 200+k mile fan motors. I ordered up the AC Delcos which are a much higher quality and now my cooling fan works great with the properly sized fuse and my relay is no where near as hot. Not even remotely the fault of the PSI Stuff. I also upped the size of the ground connection for that fan to 10g since all I had on hand was 12g when I first installed it. Lesson learned. At some point I'll order up another fan kit and wire in the other fan since its got a dual fan setup, but both my trans and coolant temps stay pretty much perfect, if not a touch cold, so far.


All anyone really cares about in these threads is photos (lol) so here are some.

At one of my customers facilities


Doing the drive-thru test while I pick up dinner for the kiddos.


Sitting in city traffic

[LT7A]

Truck sits right.

[skyphix]

Thank you! Hoping when I install the new springs it stays pretty close, or maybe just a touch lower in the front (it sits pretty much even but sometimes looks nose high.)

[layinrocker65]

looks good. What springs did you go with?

[skyphix]

Originally Posted by layinrocker65

looks good. What springs did you go with?

Thanks! Got pretty luck with the tire fitment too.

DJM 2" lowering springs are what I have here waiting to be installed. Its just got stock springs right now. Truck was originally a 6cyl and I think they're the original springs but if I am remembering correctly there wasn't any difference between the 6cyl and small block springs in 1980. The truck was ridden hard and put away wet its entire life so the springs are definitely whooped. I really am not sure the 2" lowering springs will do anything other than firm up the ride. It does have 2.5" drop spindles but they were installed before I owned it so I'm not sure what brand. I will look for markings when I have it apart to do the front rotors/wheel bearings.


Rear suspension is a home made flip kit (installed by one of the previous owners) with no C-Notch, and it has Belltech shocks all around. The original stock 3+1 52" leaf springs that are VERY worn out.

[Corts60]

Great work so far! Having a home built daily driver is always something to proud of.