Steering shaft

[RustyPile]

I did away with the upper joint in the intermediate shaft where it connects to the upper column.. I replaced it with a Borgensen U-joint and needed to lengthen the shaft about 3/4".. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures of the process..

Here's what I did.. No need to heat or otherwise melt the plastic.. First, those aren't pins that go through the overlapping shafts. They're just an "entrance point" to inject the plastic.. The inner shaft doesn't have holes through it. It has 4 square depressions beneath the 4 holes in the outer shaft. These depressions capture the plastic and maintain a relatively snug slip fit between the 2 shafts.. Melt, or otherwise, remove the plastic in those depressions and the 2 shafts will rattle against each other. Drill through the 4 holes just enough to penetrate the outer shaft.. Clamp the outer shaft in a vice and push the inner shaft deeper into the outer shaft until you have the length you want..

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

I did away with the upper joint in the intermediate shaft where it connects to the upper column.. I replaced it with a Borgensen U-joint and needed to lengthen the shaft about 3/4".. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures of the process..

So, you used a u-joint to replace the upper coupler, the one with rubber in it? And then you slid the smaller DD shaft inside the larger shaft until you got the proper length? Did you then secure the two shafts to keep them from rattling? And how about the flexibility needed to disengage the lower shaft from the rag joint coupler?

Originally Posted by RustyPile

Here's what I did.. No need to heat or otherwise melt the plastic.. First, those aren't pins that go through the overlapping shafts. They're just an "entrance point" to inject the plastic.. The inner shaft doesn't have holes through it. It has 4 square depressions beneath the 4 holes in the outer shaft. These depressions capture the plastic and maintain a relatively snug slip fit between the 2 shafts.. Melt, or otherwise, remove the plastic in those depressions and the 2 shafts will rattle against each other. Drill through the 4 holes just enough to penetrate the outer shaft.. Clamp the outer shaft in a vice and push the inner shaft deeper into the outer shaft until you have the length you want..

OK, I think I understand that. But won't the inner shaft now be loose inside the outer shaft?

[un4gvn!]

I used heat on countless shafts. None rattled, or were loose. But you should know, if you have a column shift, this will NOT work. It will misalign the linkage.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by un4gvn!

But you should know, if you have a column shift, this will NOT work. It will misalign the linkage.

The truck has a column shift, but I also have this Lokar kit left over from another project. I'll get it sorted out before shortening the shaft.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by MikeB

So, you used a u-joint to replace the upper coupler, the one with rubber in it? And then you slid the smaller DD shaft inside the larger shaft until you got the proper length? Did you then secure the two shafts to keep them from rattling? And how about the flexibility needed to disengage the lower shaft from the rag joint coupler?

Yes, it replaced the upper joint.. I don't like that big ol' ugly coupler thingie. Years ago in the '40s. '50s, Chrysler used that same design for u-joints on their driveshafts..

I didn't need to "secure" anything.. I didn't heat, melt, or remove the plastic in those 4 square depressions on the inner shaft, just drilled the plastic from those 4 holes. The fit remains snug and therefore no rattling, but still able to slip the shafts in order to remove and/or service the other components, i.e. rag joint, upper column, and steering box......

I have an aftermarket tilt column and the shaft is DD 1" diameter.. Give me a few minutes to search the Borgensen site and I'll post a link to the joint I used.. .

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

I didn't need to "secure" anything.. I didn't heat, melt, or remove the plastic in those 4 square depressions on the inner shaft, just drilled the plastic from those 4 holes. The fit remains snug and therefore no rattling, but still able to slip the shafts in order to remove and/or service the other components, i.e. rag joint, upper column, and steering box...

Thanks, that's very helpful. In fact, thanks to everyone for their comments! Now it's on to determine how to move the column forward.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by MikeB

So, you used a u-joint to replace the upper coupler, the one with rubber in it? And then you slid the smaller DD shaft inside the larger shaft until you got the proper length? Did you then secure the two shafts to keep them from rattling? And how about the flexibility needed to disengage the lower shaft from the rag joint coupler?



OK, I think I understand that. But won't the inner shaft now be loose inside the outer shaft?

Here's a link the joint I used..
https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/produ...1&cat=2&page=1

[Grumpy old man]

Here is the thread on Pickmups Flaming river floor shift tilt column and pic of the U-joint he supplies with it .

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=522483

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

I did away with the upper joint in the intermediate shaft where it connects to the upper column.. I replaced it with a Borgensen U-joint and needed to lengthen the shaft about 3/4".. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures of the process..

Here's what I did.. No need to heat or otherwise melt the plastic.. First, those aren't pins that go through the overlapping shafts. They're just an "entrance point" to inject the plastic.. The inner shaft doesn't have holes through it. It has 4 square depressions beneath the 4 holes in the outer shaft. These depressions capture the plastic and maintain a relatively snug slip fit between the 2 shafts.. Melt, or otherwise, remove the plastic in those depressions and the 2 shafts will rattle against each other. Drill through the 4 holes just enough to penetrate the outer shaft.. Clamp the outer shaft in a vice and push the inner shaft deeper into the outer shaft until you have the length you want..

^ This is the way it is . I just used basically the same process to set up a new Flaming River floor shift column and be able to slide the column forward using a U-joint .