Caster Mod for pre 73

[SuperDuperDoughnuts]

I ended up drilling the new locating hole only 5/8" instead of the full 3/4" because of my fears noted above.

My steering at low speeds is a bit harder than it was before, but it doesn't seem drastically harder than it was. Probably worth mentioning what your tire size is since that'll affect it. I'm running 255/70R15, so decently wide rubber up front. Before and after it certainly requires some strength, especially when trying to turn the steering wheel at a complete stop.

My tracking is greatly improved; worth noting that I also rebuilt the entire front suspension at the same time, so that likely is a big reason. New ball joints, tie rods (inner and outer), bushings on the shafts...

I have no rubbing of the springs. Are you sure you have the springs seated fully on the locating features at both ends? Double check; it's easy to think they are seated correctly when they aren't quite right. Also, do you have full length springs or are you running lowering springs?

[itsnotbroken]

I'm attempting this mod on a 1965 GMC Suburban 1500.
Last year I swapped power steering from a 73-87. (gearbox, pitman, idler, drag link, inner tie rods) It is extremely twitchy now that it has power. (and probably that I'm not used to a new gerar box compared to the old worn out manual box)

I had the LCA shafts milled 3/4" back from the original location.
While I have it apart, I'm swapping spindles to add disc brakes.
I'm using OEM contral arms, 2" drop coils (have been on the truck since 1987) new CPP drop spindles. I'm not planning on moving the suspension travel. RIde height should end up with the top of a 29" tire sitting exactly at the top of the wheel well opening. The leaves me about 4" travel until it rubs on the inner fender.

I am mocking it up now without the coil springs, and my lower ball joint is binding before I hit the upward travel limit beacause it's still pointing 90 degrees straight up relative to the control arm. It needs to be pointing backwards towards the upper ball joint.

The upper ball joint is aimed generally at the lower ball joint location in the caster plane, so this mod doesnt affect the upper ball joint. It is also binding close to the upward travel limit in the camber plane (it's almost 45 degress from level), but this would be doing this whether or not I moved the LCA forward. I have to solve this separately.

I can fit a digital level between my ball joints & the king pin angle (caster) is showing around 22 degrees at ride height. I have no shims on the upper arm shaft.

Even thought I'm changing spindles, I'm not convinced that this is causing the issue. The ball joints run in a straight line throught the spindle holes.

Anyone else get weird readings like this?

Mark V