TA_C10: Stage 1

[SCOTI]

Well, I was hoping you found a better answer & didn't need the additional support but better to be over-supported vs under IMHO. FWIW, the straps don't hurt the look significantly. They can always be blacked out as well if their visual appearance bothers the owner. Mine are fabbed from stainless but I am still undecided if they'll stay that way or get coated in black.

The trans internals do look clean.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Well, I was hoping you found a better answer & didn't need the additional support but better to be over-supported vs under IMHO. FWIW, the straps don't hurt the look significantly. They can always be blacked out as well if their visual appearance bothers the owner. Mine are fabbed from stainless but I am still undecided if they'll stay that way or get coated in black.

The trans internals do look clean.

I am thinking the tank is going to be hanging pretty low and you will see it from behind the truck. So I may end up painting the whole tank black to keep it from being noticed. I may wait until the truck is together before I make that decision, although now would be the easiest access to paint it.... Thanks for your help on this. I agree, the straps are not bad and I used the same brackets I made before as the straps use those same holes so it wasn't an issue at all.

[TA_C10]

Well not much fun stuff going on over here. Just stripping the oil pan, front and rear covers, and replacing all the norm. New front and rear main seals, new cover seals, new oil pump, pickup tube, timing set, and water pump.... Stripping and painting things. Lots of cleaning. Oh and I managed to break my oil pan but I ended up finding one the very next day for cheap on FB Marketplace local guy. So cleaning that and getting it painted up.






Now here is some info you may enjoy/find useful. I ended up finding out the hard way that the timing set comes with a new camshaft sprocket and that sprocket/gear is pressed on therefore needed a puller to remove it. And this puller is special, the regular 3 jaw pullers don't work on it. So I ended up heading down to AZ even though all the threads on this forum were saying not to as they don't carry the correct puller. And they are correct, they don't have the puller everyone says to use. However, I was determined and I rented several different pullers after looking at their rental sheet and I noticed one that looked like it might work and sure enough, it was perfect.


It's the heavy duty pitman arm puller. And this thing was perfect. Worked like it was made for the job. So if you are reading this and you need to do the same, well your welcome

[TA_C10]

And my timing gear had really sharp casting holes so I deburred/countersink those holes so they wouldn't have issue. May not have been necessary but at the time I thought it best.......


Hard to see in this pic but its sharp here. 2nd pic is after I took a die grinder to them. And I have countersink bits but didn't think to use them...

[1971Stepside]

I'm with Cornerstone here...bring on the paint!

[nlped]

Just an observation, but if that’s a truck pan and you’re lowered, that pan may be in jeopardy as it’ll be lower than the front crossmember.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

You are one busy dude. Lots and LOTS of work will pay off soon. I keep hoping to open your thread and see a new paint job.... I'll just have to wait patiently I guess.

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

I'm with Cornerstone here...bring on the paint!

I feel like recently this is all I do when I get home from work.... I am very motivated to finish this truck. Kinda have to be really in my situation... And yeah, this set back slowed my progress getting to paint but it's coming really soon, stay tuned!

Originally Posted by nlped

Just an observation, but if that’s a truck pan and you’re lowered, that pan may be in jeopardy as it’ll be lower than the front crossmember.

Yeah it's a truck pan. It sits perfectly level with the crossmember. I don't like it that much so we will see... Stage 2 will bring engine upgrades and that's going to be one of them.

[TA_C10]

Update - Torque Converter Prep

Started getting my TC ready for install. Just following the instructions, research on the internet, and then an email or two with Circle D all I have to do is make sure there is between 1/8" - 3/16" of clearance between the two mating surfaces of the TC and flywheel. There were some other measurements online I found that you can use to help prepare you before you install like the distance between the bellhousing flange and the mounting surface of the TC. This measurement helps you determine if you got the TC fully seating onto the trans shaft. You know, the infamous 3 clicks


I love seeing my name on the TC. But I guess I don't really want to post that picture with some of the unfortunate lurkers on this site... So all your getting is the install/testing/build code pic















So then I installed the new OEM style flywheel. Blue loctite on the threads. 3 rounds of torque specs, 15lb, 35lb, then 74lb to finish.














Then I dry installed everything to the block. Popped off the bell housing plug. And checked for clearance. I ended up having to use the large washer/spacer that came with my TC kit to get the correct spacing/clearance. I used the drill bit method. Came out just right next size up from eighth inch at 9/64".

[TA_C10]

Oh yeah, and got water pump cleaned, painted, installed.

[cebra]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Oh yeah, and got water pump cleaned, painted, installed.

So pretty.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by nlped

Just an observation, but if that’s a truck pan and you’re lowered, that pan may be in jeopardy as it’ll be lower than the front crossmember.

Ok Update. And this one cost me more money... nlped thank you for keeping me up at night..... So I thought I was fine, no, I was not fine. The pan stuck like 1.5" below the x-member when I ran out in the garage to check. How did I ever think it was level???.... ugh.

So I ordered a Cadillac CTS-V oil pan. Bolts right up to my engine and gives me more clearance. Had to modify the windage tray to make it fit but no big deal. Painted it of coarse. Installed the oil filter assembly. Now I have a ton of clearance.

[TA_C10]

Filled the new torque converter with fluid, installed it. Got the engine and tranny back in the frame along with headers and exhaust. Also installed the new trans filler tube. Going to have to modify the bracket as it's not right. Setup to hit an empty hole. So I will probably cut off the bracket and move it on the tube so it lines up with a proper bolt hole. Ready to finish exhaust now. And after painting and re-wrapping the coil pack wires they look so much better.

[TA_C10]

I also started working on looming my wire harness. Got about 3/4 way done and ran out of materials. I can do these things in the A/C

[TA_C10]

Update - Remote Transmission Cooler

I got this idea from 68 short step. It's an aluminum finned remote trans cooler with NPT threads. It's 2 chambers, split down the middle with an aluminum plate on the inside. Several others say these units will cool a 4l60e or 4l80e trans with moderate power no problem. Even though my new radiator has trans cooler provisions, I thought this setup was much cleaner and easier to maintain.

I used the same SS braided line that I had left over from my fuel lines. However I bought black fittings for this application. I read that back when A/N line was produced for aircraft, the red/blue was used identify fuel lines. So I did the same, and so I am using the black fittings for hydraulic lines. I plan to also use same SS lines with black fittings to connect my power steering pump to the steering gear also. I just have to make sure it will handle the high pressure line....

So, without further ado, pics for your viewing pleasure.

[1971Stepside]

I think I should have ran mine to the frame rail like that instead of all the way up front under the radiator. I thought it needed some air movement. Would have saved me a lot in braided hose.

[CarlsLQ9SS]

Just read a few pages, looking good. Your welding looks really good to me.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

I think I should have ran mine to the frame rail like that instead of all the way up front under the radiator. I thought it needed some air movement. Would have saved me a lot in braided hose.

From what I have read there is plenty of air on the side rails. We will see. And yours being up front should just be more of assurance its gonna work

Originally Posted by CarlsLQ9SS

Just read a few pages, looking good. Your welding looks really good to me.

Thanks man, took me a while to get used to it but I get more and more confident the more I weld.

[nlped]

You ARE welcome.

As usual, every thing is looking really good!

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by nlped

You ARE welcome.

As usual, every thing is looking really good!

Thank you sir. All I can think of is either the new springs finally settled some so it dropped, or I just plain never noticed and just thought I did.... And I really doubt the springs settled a whole inch much less 1.5.....

My sleepless nights are over with that new pan. For now anyways.

Now let's see some Walt!

.

[1971Stepside]

I experienced the same insomnia until I changed my oil pan. LOL

[Chris50]

Amazing write up. The details and seeing your progress is what motivates people like me to keep going. Even though, I did loose most of my day reading everything since your first post...LOL. Time well spent though. I'm ready for the paint and the open road pics. Keep up the great work!

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

I experienced the same insomnia until I changed my oil pan. LOL

Glad to know I'm not the only one

Originally Posted by Chris50

Amazing write up. The details and seeing your progress is what motivates people like me to keep going. Even though, I did loose most of my day reading everything since your first post...LOL. Time well spent though. I'm ready for the paint and the open road pics. Keep up the great work!

Thank you sir. It's difficult to keep motivated sometimes but sometimes just digging in and grinding away will bring the motivation itself. Seeing progress.

:chevy

[TA_C10]

Update - Mufflers welded in.

That pretty much says it for this post. It took me 5 hours just to weld in the vband ends, 45's, and mufflers. But progress is progress. I think it's gonna work . I think I'm going to start working on my H-Pipe next before I finish the tail pipe dumps.

[cebra]

What wheels/tires are you planning to use?

[LagunaGlide]

Looking good. I am new here and will definitely be following along. You are doing a lot of the stuff I will need and want to do, but at an accelerated rate.