Dropmember in a 69 C10

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

My opinions on the rack and pinion... For my personal vehicle, I would install a manual rack. Dino's 66 SWB and 63 panel both have manual racks and are a pleasure to drive. The only real added benefit of Power Assist is that it makes life easier turning at low speeds. If you are running a smaller diameter steering wheel, a power unit will diminish the amount of profanity while attempting to park. A manual rack is an almost sure thing that your wife or girlfriend will never want to drive your truck!

Of course, if you are going to be running other ammenities, such as A/C, why not go power rack as well? The added cost is about $150.

My deal is I'm trying to minimize the 'hardware' under the hood. A pwr steering pump (even a small one), means the brackets for the accessories I must have (a/c, alt) will need to move up on the engine which defeats the purpose . . ..... unless of course I spend yet another $1500 on a Front-Runner or Tru-Trac serp set-up.

I guess I should say I'm trying to minimize the underhood hardware for minimal cash outlay. Homemade/modified aftermarket steel brackets are a heck of a lot cheaper & already in place. The C4 Dropmember was appealing 'cause it would help shed some of those extra pounds that big ole' engine has vs something much smaller. I'm already doing alum heads, radiator, & electric fan/shroud combo to help minimize the front end weight.

How much drop is the dropmember? I mean, if I were to 'Z' the stock frame, how much would it take to equal the dropmember?

[XXL]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

My deal is I'm trying to minimize the 'hardware' under the hood.

Talk about a hijack...

SCOTI, I thought about running the alternator off of the rearend to get it out from under the hood. If you put the (right size) pulley on the rearend at the driveshaft and then mount the alternator back there, it might work pretty well... so long as you didn't spend a lot of time sitting at idle. Waddaya think?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by XXL

Talk about a hijack...

SCOTI, I thought about running the alternator off of the rearend to get it out from under the hood. If you put the (right size) pulley on the rearend at the driveshaft and then mount the alternator back there, it might work pretty well... so long as you didn't spend a lot of time sitting at idle. Waddaya think?

I've considered this option. But.... fuel injection, electric fans, a/c, pwr windows, stereo, air-compressors & ignition system make me think I want something that charges regardless of my mph.

[jlaird]

I just wanted to say thanks to nathan for taking time out of his day to help me out. I gave him a call today. Sounded like a stand up guy. I was just reading your updated parts list. We can use the 73-87 3" drop spindle, correct?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by jlaird

I just wanted to say thanks to nathan for taking time out of his day to help me out. I gave him a call today. Sounded like a stand up guy. I was just reading your updated parts list. We can use the 73-87 3" drop spindle, correct?

Correct, the 73-87 3" drop spindle can be used ( and necessary to lay it on the ground with a 29" diameter tire), I just don't offer it... yet. Keep in mind, the 73-87 spindle uses a different ball joint than the others.

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Correct, the 73-87 3" drop spindle can be used ( and necessary to lay it on the ground with a 29" diameter tire), I just don't offer it... yet. Keep in mind, the 73-87 spindle uses a different ball joint than the others.

I'm aware of the ball joint issue. Can the newer ball joint(73-87) be used on the 67-72 arms?

[dan468]

yes

[dan468]

I can't remember what the brackets look like but boats w/ V-drive run the alt of the driveshaft. If you know anyone that has one it's a good place to start

[IvelDesigns]

so any update on the 69 C-10?

this thread on well on it's way to be the next million post thread :-)

[jimmydean]

Nathan, congrats on the article. I just got my issue in the mail today and it made me think about the difference in price between the dropmember and the C4 version.

Minus the price difference between bags/shockwaves, is there a price difference from a complete C4 dropmember spindle to spindle to the dropmember using strong arms and 6 lug discs?

I know you have a "source" for the C4 parts and your a dealer for Air Ride. But I dig the idea of the C4 kit. I'm not looking to lay frame, but to use Vette parts (I will have an LSx motor some day) would be so pimptastic!


<edit> NEVER MIND. I used search and found the info in the C4 thread. I still want it though!

[67Fleet]

did you just say pimptastic???? hehehe

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by 67Fleet

did you just say pimptastic???? hehehe

Dude, you can not tell me that by running an after market Vette suspension and steering setup wouldn't increase my pimp-factor by at least +5.

Of course I would end up spending way more than my initial budget, but I guess that went out the window a long time ago.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

Dude, you can not tell me that by running an after market Vette suspension and steering setup wouldn't increase my pimp-factor by at least +5.

The 'Pimp factor increase" has been measured as high as +8.37 with this conversion...

Here's some pics of one going into a 71 Blazer... the body has a 'little' rust.

[jimmydean]

DropmemberC4 = $1200
C4 front kit off ebay = $800
Shockwaves = $850

Pimp-factor = priceless...

I'll be posting some internal organs on ebay this week. I need to support my habit somehow.

[PBFAB.COM]

Scoti-
Just convert all your power to AC and run a Honda gas generator in back.. under the tonneau cover of course!

[XXL]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Scoti-
Just convert all your power to AC and run a Honda gas generator in back.. under the tonneau cover of course!

Tonneau cover...

[SCOTI]

Ok.... we now return to our normal programming.

Nathan, in the barrage of posts recently I didn't see an answer to my question: How much drop is the dropmember? I mean, if one were to 'Z' their stock frame, how much would it take to equal the dropmember?

That C4 set-up sure looks right . . .....

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Ok.... we now return to our normal programming.

Nathan, in the barrage of posts recently I didn't see an answer to my question: How much drop is the dropmember? I mean, if one were to 'Z' their stock frame, how much would it take to equal the dropmember?

That C4 set-up sure looks right . . .....

The Dropmember moves the lower control arm centerline up 3 inches from stock.

IvelDesign- The 69 that this thread 'originated' with will be back on the operating table shortly.

[SCOTI]

Thank you sir.... thinkin' cap back on.

[gringoloco]

Beautimus!!!!! Anyone want to buy my first-born?

[XXL]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Beauitmus!!!!! Anyone want to buy my first-born?

Good luck! I've been trying to sell mine for 10 years... why do you think my truck is taking so long to finish?

[Col Clank]

I really want one of those just can't afford it right now.

[gringoloco]

I don't remember seeing anything about whether the Dropmember centers the wheels in the wheelwell fore/aft. As most of us are well aware, these trucks have a tendency to push the CL back towards the firewall when extremely lowered. Is the DM designed to center the wheel, or at least closer than stock parts?

-Chris

[abadsvt]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

I don't remember seeing anything about whether the Dropmember centers the wheels in the wheelwell fore/aft. As most of us are well aware, these trucks have a tendency to push the CL back towards the firewall when extremely lowered. Is the DM designed to center the wheel, or at least closer than stock parts?

-Chris

Yes Nathans dropmember does correct the wheel placement at dump in the fenders. Mine is centered perfectly. All you have to do is take your fender cut it in half, then grab another fender, cut out 2" of it in the center. Then you have to weld that 2" piece you cut out inbetween the 2 halves of your original fender. That is what i had to do.

[67Fleet]

Originally Posted by abadsvt

Yes Nathans dropmember does correct the wheel placement at dump in the fenders. Mine is centered perfectly. All you have to do is take your fender cut it in half, then grab another fender, cut out 2" of it in the center. Then you have to weld that 2" piece you cut out inbetween the 2 halves of your original fender. That is what i had to do.

Make sure you are taking pics. LOL. I'd love to see how you lined up your core support. hehehhe.