LS factory cruise control hook up

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Nice meeting you too Andy, its cool to be able to put a face to a name! Also met NC_John, BlueJeep, and dayj1 on the tour, it was definitely the place to meet people.

Yes it is for sure. I would like to see some more of the ride you where in on the tour. That thing was nice.

[clay68c10]

Any chance you have any more switches?

[rodstored-72]

I am currently in the middle of a 2013 LS truck swap into a '86 C10. I am trying to connect the TCC wires between the 2 trucks. I have the 2 (lt blue/wht stripe) wires ID... both come from the same pin at the '13 ECM. I have ID the lt. blue wire & brown/wht stripe wire from the '86 switch (in cab). The '86 lt blue wire comes thru the firewall with a green wire both end at a connector, the green wire then runs single to a connector (byself). looking for help with how/what to connect at what point(s)? any assistance would be greatly appreciated .... thank you again!

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by rodstored-72

I am currently in the middle of a 2013 LS truck swap into a '86 C10. I am trying to connect the TCC wires between the 2 trucks. I have the 2 (lt blue/wht stripe) wires ID... both come from the same pin at the '13 ECM. I have ID the lt. blue wire & brown/wht stripe wire from the '86 switch (in cab). The '86 lt blue wire comes thru the firewall with a green wire both end at a connector, the green wire then runs single to a connector (byself). looking for help with how/what to connect at what point(s)? any assistance would be greatly appreciated .... thank you again!

Just saw your post on LS1Tech and figured it would be easier to get in touch on here and saw this post. Anyway, basically on a GenIV swap, you just have to hook the TCC wire to the brake switch so that it has power when the brakes are APPLIED, the opposite of the older engines. So just test the two wires on the brake switch, one will be hot all the time and the other will be hot when you press the brake pedal, hook it to that wire, the same wire that supplies power to the brake lights.

[rodstored-72]

ls1nova71, THANK YOU!!for the reply... I guess (then if I understand) the lt blue wire from the '86 (coming out from Firewall) is the hot wire when brakes APPLIED then I can connect 1 of the '13 lt blue wire to it? also what do I do with the 2nd lt blue wire from the same pin from the '13 ECM? for some reason the '13 "X conn." at the mounted factory underhood fuse box has 2 small ga. lt blue wires coming from the same pin, this is what is confusing me... I don't understand the purpose of 2 wires splitting at the factory connector - if the wires do different things... i am having a hard time with deciphering the '13 wire diagram

I appreciate your patience I am far from a electrical guy.. so I apologize for my dumb questions I can tell by your builds that you are very knowledgable and talented builder

[ls1nova71]

Thanks for the compliments, sounds like you are on the right track. As for the second wire coming from the ECM, without looking at a schematic its hard to know for sure what it went to, but it was something on 2013 truck, something your swap doesn't have, so you can just cut the remaining wire out or tape it up good so it doesn't short out against anything.

[rodstored-72]

LS1nova71, THANK YOU!! I am going to wire test this weekend & then finish that particular connection. My next big hurdle is the grey fuel pump pwr wire ('13 ecm) to go ??? with the factory dual tanks from the '86!

I really appreciate your time in answering questions!! the board is still good to have for me being an 'ol skool guy W/O FB or IG ...

[CHIEFWAHO]

Grabbed this 4 wire switch off a mid 80's Dodge Ram.

Googled and found a wiring diagram.

Am I reading the diagram correctly, that this is an "Open Switch" ?

[ls1nova71]

I can't tell from that schematic? Would be best to test it with a multimeter to be sure.

[CHIEFWAHO]

Not exactly sure how to test my switch?

Did PIN out testing last night.

I assume B should not have voltage until SET is pushed? and then it should just momentary voltage?

[ls1nova71]

Get a test light, and a battery and hook the positive side of the battery to the black wire on the switch. Then with the test light, hook one end to the ground of the battery. After that, you can check the other three wires. Start at the yellow wire, you should have 12v when the on/off switch is set to ON. Then check the white wire and press the SET button, you should have 12v only when the button is pressed. Lastly, check the dark blue wire, press the RESUME, you should have 12v only when it's pressed also. That's what it looks like from the schematic anyway, so that's what I would do.

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Get a test light, and a battery and hook the positive side of the battery to the black wire on the switch. Then with the test light, hook one end to the ground of the battery. After that, you can check the other three wires. Start at the yellow wire, you should have 12v when the on/off switch is set to ON. Then check the white wire and press the SET button, you should have 12v only when the button is pressed. Lastly, check the dark blue wire, press the RESUME, you should have 12v only when it's pressed also. That's what it looks like from the schematic anyway, so that's what I would do.

Or, do the same thing with the continuity setting on a meter.

[CHIEFWAHO]

Thanks for the help all! I finally have full functioning cruise control.
My wiring I did was spot on. Culprit's were bad switches I had sourced from used vehicles.
I ended up ordering a new cruise stalk thru Amazon. I'm not real fond of the look but maybe I'll find a more retro stalk and swap out the inner switch sometime down the road.

I cut the 1 screw flat piece off my original turn signal lever and welded it to the new stalk.

[Davidf]

Happy you got it working even if it is on a Jeep. Here is a good option for a new cruise control/turn signal lever:

https://www.amazon.com/Rostra-GM-Sty.../dp/B008LUTF0C

[CHIEFWAHO]

Originally Posted by Davidf

Here is a good option for a new cruise control/turn signal lever:

https://www.amazon.com/Rostra-GM-Sty.../dp/B008LUTF0C

I looked at that Rostra lever. Was told it's a closed circuit and did not want to add the relays to make it work. Did wonder if the switch out of the new one I used would fit the Rostra.

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by CHIEFWAHO

I looked at that Rostra lever. Was told it's a closed circuit and did not want to add the relays to make it work. Did wonder if the switch out of the new one I used would fit the Rostra.

Yes, you are correct (missed that originally)! So, I found this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/163591278949
The adapter converts the closed circuit to open circuit (does all the relay work for you). I think it will be money well spent on my project as it task one task of many away from me.

EDIT: The Ebay seller cancelled my purchase due to out of stock...even though the listing says there were 6 of 10 available. Going to make my own from NC and NO relays.

[aggie91]

Ok, I was going to finish up get my cruise hooked up yesterday and I had a brain blockage...

For the wire that goes from C2 Pin 50 (VSS Out) of the PCM to the K terminal of the cruise module connector, can that be spliced so that it also feeds my electronic speedo?

Also, the Purple TCC Brake Switch wire from C1 Pin 33, can it be spiced so that it get is power from the brake switch at the same time as the wire to terminal D on the cruise module connector?

I know it should work that way, I just needed to ask so that someone can confirm it.

Thanks,

[aggie91]

Here is my marked up schematic...

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Ok, I was going to finish up get my cruise hooked up yesterday and I had a brain blockage...

For the wire that goes from C2 Pin 50 (VSS Out) of the PCM to the K terminal of the cruise module connector, can that be spliced so that it also feeds my electronic speedo?

Also, the Purple TCC Brake Switch wire from C1 Pin 33, can it be spiced so that it get is power from the brake switch at the same time as the wire to terminal D on the cruise module connector?

I know it should work that way, I just needed to ask so that someone can confirm it.

Thanks,

Yes you can splice them in. It will work fine that way.

[1rippen6]

subscribed

[aggie91]

I have been working on hooking this up in my LS swapped '84 C10. I took the liberty and the time to clean up the wiring diagrams in this thread posted by ls1nova71 and XwalkerX. See attached. I will be updating them to include wiring for a "Cruise Engaged" light.

I also printed the Cruise Control Module Connector Pin Out. The charts wire color was different than the wires in my actual connector so I noted those in RED text. I added a column for the wire colors I used to extend the wires on my actual connector.

I hope this helps someone on here. The original hand drawn diagrams where great, I just made them a bit neater and added some notes that helped me.

[aggie91]

Here are the updated diagrams with the Cruise Engaged indicator light wired the way ls1nova71 describes in post #163.

[elf w/capital T]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Here are the updated diagrams with the Cruise Engaged indicator light wired the way ls1nova71 describes in post #163.

AHHMAZING!!! WOW thanks Karl! Saving to use when ever I get to this project

[Davidf]

FWIW, I used the Rostra switch with circuit reversing relays and my cruise did not work. So, I started tracing circuits to see where I went wrong. In the end, it turned out to be a mis adjusted brake light switch that caused the normally closed portion (that the cruise power circuit connects to) to be normally open. Readjust the switch and bingo. Love it!

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by Davidf

FWIW, I used the Rostra switch with circuit reversing relays and my cruise did not work. So, I started tracing circuits to see where I went wrong. In the end, it turned out to be a mis adjusted brake light switch that caused the normally closed portion (that the cruise power circuit connects to) to be normally open. Readjust the switch and bingo. Love it!

Good info David. This could really save somebody down the road.

I used ackattack directions for relay setup. I first used cheap male and female insulated connectors on every wire to begin with, a volt meter, and tested everything. Worked pretty good. Then I cut off all those connectors and finalized the wiring connections. Connectors allowed me to drive down the road and test after I got them right with volt meter. Twisting them together they could have touched. Whatever you prefer, but it's easy to test this way.