55.2-59 55-57 one piece windows

[Aussie chev pickup]

Hi guys, just wondering if someone would be able to email me the PDF template for the windows. All window kits that are sold locally in Australia are way to expensive $1300 none electric and $2600 electric any help would be greatly appreciated
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[Roarinrat]

Aussie chev pickup PM me your e-mail address and I'll forward the template.

I have made electric window lifts utilising the original manual lifts, removing the small hand cranked pinion and replacing with an electric window lift motor out of a modern vehicle.
In my case I used a lift motor out of a Lexus LS400, which had a similar tooth pitch to the original chevy, and I cut and welded in the LS400 motor carrier so the motor engaged with the chevy regulator quadrant gear.
I'm sure that there will be other lift motors out there that could be adapted.

[MD2020]

I found the video's earlier this year and have done the modifications.
One of the windows seams to be to wide and the other works ok-ish.
I think the door template could do me some good.
I PM ed you Roarinrat.

I have a 1956 chevy Truck

[idbeast]

Originally Posted by MD2020

I found the video's earlier this year and have done the modifications.
One of the windows seams to be to wide and the other works ok-ish.
I think the door template could do me some good.
I PM ed you Roarinrat.

I have a 1956 chevy Truck

If Roarinrat doesn't get back to you, PM me your email and I'll send it to you, He sent it to me also!

Jim

[MD2020]

Thanks jim

[MD2020]

idbeast sent me the window template file

I have already done the youtube mod's earlier this year but I'm still not there, i will work on it some more and update.
I also have bear claw latches that I'm doing too, they will fit if you get the right ones.
I will update.
This site has helped me, so I will help back.

[idbeast]

Originally Posted by MD2020

idbeast sent me the window template file

You're welcome MD2020!

[MD2020]

1st thing
If you have vent windows I would leave them in.
let me say that one of my door came off some other truck, also my cab is a 4B, 1-1/2 ton cab I don't think if matters.
One of the mods that was not on the youtube.
I moved the nylon roller down
It made the window go up at a different angle.
the door hings is to the right and the door latch is to the left.

My truck had 1 piece windows when I got it but none of the youtube mods, had been done, so I did the mods a while back and now I am trying to finish up.
So the 1st thin I did was to pull out the old felt channel around the window and down in the doors and put the old glass in and roll up the window.
I cut some poster board to get the upper corners tighter and taped them on, also going down the sides I had to add some.
I laid myglass down on a 1/4" thick plywood and traced around and made my changes to get the glass to fit tight.


This corner has to be cut off enough to keep the window from binding when you first roll up the window and on the way down.


So I bent my new felt channel around the window and put everything in (no glue), so after trimming the plywood down several times I have it going up and down smoothly.
I think this will be a air leak at this point.
Note: one template will not work for both sides, so I will have two different size windows.



So I cut a piece of 18 ga. steel bent it on my cheep Harbor F break and cut relief cut in.AS you can see it's going to take care of my leak hopefully .


I had to make a inside piece too.


So more and more trimming and twisting I go it to fit.
A couple tacks here and there and hammer it to fit before welding more
So a short piece of the YM54R-96 felt should fix it.


All finished.

[MD2020]

When I did the youtube mods for the windows. I made sure the old door catches would fit.
I did Tool and Die and machine work for 28 years and lot's of fabrication also. but never on a car or truck.
This was not a easy job.
I found some bearclaw latches that were 3/4" thick and 1-1/4" wide ( do a search for images) and you will see the one showing the measurements.

So I made a bracket and tacked it on.
The latch is realy close to the window channel that was in the mods. and you want to hold it out close to the back of the cover panel for the window and door lever cover

I had to do some trimming just above the original door catch HOLES. I can still take this off and go back for now to the factory catches.


So leaving that tacked I started work on the catch post
so I had to cut most of the bracket off (see the sharpe lines


cut and made a filler piece to weld in.



NO TURNING BACK NOW I'm all in
Welded the slots up too.
where my finger is I had to shave off a goog bit to keep the bare claw latch and cover from hitting. If you look close behind the pin , the bracket had to slide behind the door post frame see the crack.


The cove I made had to be a tight to the bracket and latch so it would clear when closing the door.
Hopefully all this will hold up and work proper.


Now I had to make all the brackets to get the outside factory door handle to work. It just barely fits behind there. I will say it again ( I would not do this again with the window and latch on the same truck)


I"m waiting for my glass to get cut and see how it all works.

[slammed57]

nice work thanks for sharing

[waybad]

I've always wondered if this type of install would work, I have the same latches just for this when I get time,, thanks for doing it first and showing how to do it!!!!
Tink

[MD2020]

Thanks
Good luck waybad

[DransportGarage]

Just glued the window felts in after two days of generally screwing around with them. Good enough for who it's for. THANKS TO ALL for your tips in this thread! (...and yes, it's an old thread, but deserves to be bumped!)

[slammed57]

you glued them in , instead of screwing them in? looks like they came out pretty good, where did you get you felts at?

[lowdownstar]

i like the chrome on them myself.

Ray

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by slammed57

you glued them in , instead of screwing them in? looks like they came out pretty good, where did you get you felts at?

I was "tickling the thread" to see if anyone would ask! My buddy had a leftover set of Trim Parts felts for a '72 Monte Carlo. Remember those 5-foot long doors? All 4 parts were plenty long enough, with rear pieces to practice on. The distance from the door to the glass is filled perfectly. I scuffed the paint with P400 (dry) and used E6000 to glue them in, but don't ask me to remove the glass...

The pictures show the profile and the view looking down.

Thanks, lowdownstar!

[slammed57]

brilliant! I think Iam goin to go this route. thanks for posting bud

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by slammed57

you glued them in , instead of screwing them in?

I glued a set once with Ultra Black silicone. They held as long as I owned the truck.

[DransportGarage]

I got some questions in a PM, so I'm posting answers here:

Q1: Were you able to 'curve' these up to match the profile of the door?

Q2: Also, (your opinion) do you think that a plastic push pin or something would work to secure them to the doors?

Q3: Is the metal bead on these chrome or stainless?


A1: (See picture) Yes, I curved them by cutting them a little long, then I grabbed the unneeded tip with a good pair of needle-nosed vice grips. I then clamped a small rubber mallet in a vice and bent (pushed) them over the head of the hammer, a little at a time. Repeat about 100 times. Then I cut off the part that I had crunched with the vise grip, then round it using the grinding wheel. You have to clip most of the felt part off of the part you want to curve because it's backed up with stainless. Leave the "bump" right below the exposed stainless that's about 1/8" wide. I cut the felt using a Harbor Fright air saw, then straightened the cut using the grinding wheel.

A2: The push pin would have to be very small, and would have to grip very tightly to keep the felts from moving around. The ones I've used tend to jiggle around. I don't think it would work well, but I've been wrong before.The factory used a very small flat head sheet metal screw. The glass won't hit it if you draw it all the way in, and with the strips I chose, the felt wraps around and covers the screw head.

A3: The metal bead is stainless, and you can polish it.

[jwhotrod]

I have not checked about the truck, but I have put 2 sets of New Relics power windows in my 34 and 35 chevys. they not only asked me if I had tubed the cars which I had. (removed the wood frameworks) but also if I had removed the windwing windows, which I had. They not only gave me templates for the mounting holes in the doors but gave me extended window slots and stabilizers for the longer windows.
I love those guys.

[DransportGarage]

The problem for me is the "upper left". My radius needs to be smaller and the glass needs to "grow" so that the glass will enter the channel in that corner. It looks like the template would do better than the Brothers glass.

Additionally, the upper corners are at the mercy of the side channel fit. This could restrict the rotation of the glass. Also, if the glass is too wide at the bottom (as the glass in your picture appears to be), the glass will never seat in the horizontal/top part of the channel. The height of the glass is the least of the factors, but may leave too much glass stick out when the window is rolled down.

[svr]

A question, what would happen if the top flat edge was ground down a bit until the corner radius's could be changed to match the template? it probably wouldn't take much and maybe the regulator would just push the window up a little higher. I have glass but have not tried to fit it yet.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by svr

A question, what would happen if the top flat edge was ground down a bit until the corner radius's could be changed to match the template? it probably wouldn't take much and maybe the regulator would just push the window up a little higher. I have glass but have not tried to fit it yet.

It could help some, because it would allow you to re-radius the corners; however, in my case the glass needs to move FORWARD, not up. That said, it couldn't hurt as long as the mechanism didn't hit the top of the door before the top of the glass was fully nested in the channel.

[BBPanel]

I repositioned the glass on the template by moving it up and just covering the top horizontal line (in effect doing what svr suggested w/o actually grinding it down) and the fit is much better, not perfect. The top radii fit better and the bottom looks about the same. I've got nothing to lose but try it and see how it fits. At least the bottom edges are larger than the template so they could be ground down. I need to re-read this thread and a couple of others and decide what felt channel to get. Here are the top pics "refitted".

edit - now I've got a bigger problem - I can't find the window regulators(s) and wing windows!

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by BBPanel

<snip>

edit - now I've got a bigger problem - I can't find the window regulators(s) and wing windows!

Attachment 1950439Attachment 1950440

Don't look too hard for those wing windows. You don't need them anymore! (Sorry. I couldn't help myself!) The regulators, however, are important.