LFD's low buck truck build! - Page 12 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

franky69c10 · 03-21-2007, 01:32 AM

looking good...........

ToddSS · 03-21-2007, 09:27 AM

Man, that's sweet. Amazing work on the bed. Really makes it look simple.

lytemup454 · 03-21-2007, 06:47 PM

In the mags for under 5k is amazing i don't care who you are. Keven you are a real reality check to thoes of us who get over whelmed by mounting costs, and high dollar shop builds that run across the same mags. It also helps to see someone from home putting it down. (I grew up in Napa But i Spent most of my teenage years all over the lake, winters, ect...) i just might have to come by and say hi when i get back from my deployment...

Rokcrln · 03-21-2007, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lytemup454

i just might have to come by and say hi when i get back from my deployment...

Please do I am easy to find!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

SCOTI · 03-21-2007, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lytemup454

In the mags for under 5k is amazing i don't care who you are. Keven you are a real reality check to thoes of us who get over whelmed by mounting costs, and high dollar shop builds that run across the same mags.

I couldn't agree more. It would seem many of those 'low buck' builds in magazines never really are. You do decent work too

.

Pl4yboy · 03-21-2007, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I couldn't agree more. It would seem many of those 'low buck' builds in magazines never really are. You do decent work too

.

Decent?

SCOTI · 03-21-2007, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pl4yboy

Decent?

wink, wink

Rokcrln · 03-21-2007, 10:45 PM

Started the flip kit tonight by grinding off all the old brackets and some that made no sence. This axel had a set of spring pads on it at one point that was set up for a spring under but they were not original and had been removed already. Then they had a set of bump stop pads and part of some other bracket that was half removed already. So I removed the old spring pads, bump pads and what ever was left of odds and ends.

I then made the start of my new pads. They are 7" long for now and are made out of 2x2x1/4" tube. I will cut the length down after I am finished with mock up. The old pads are set 1/2" above the axel tube but I made these 1" from the tube to the spring giving me an additional 1/2" lower then regular pads. Also the reason they are 7" long is because I had to get them in place and add the weight of the truck so I could check for the tire being center of the wheel opening. Guess what it wasn't! I will need to re-drill the center pin holes about 1 1/2" offset from center in order to shift the axel back to center things up.

I also removed the spring center pins and the add a leaf then I installed new pins from the top down so the new spring pads will have a good mount to center on. The new ones were a hole $2.66 for the set and came with new nuts as well. I also re-used the old U bolts for now but I will get new ones before I do any test driving.

So here is were things are tonight after 2hr 30min. I like the ride height so far but I will need to get the front done, gas tank installed and set back on the ground for a good look. Then once that is done I will pull the bed back off and set up the air bags and build the C-notch so I don't bottom out.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$1188.64
73hrs

skchevota · 03-21-2007, 10:38 PM

Did I miss where you lowered the rear sidemarker down? Or were you just waiting for someone to notice?

I probebly missed it. I see you found a tank. I think this truck is going to turn out pretty cool for low buck.

skchevota · 03-21-2007, 11:06 PM

Are you going to use round u bolts so that the plate and nuts will be on the bottom for clearance?

Rokcrln · 03-21-2007, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skchevota

Are you going to use round u bolts so that the plate and nuts will be on the bottom for clearance?

No I am using the stock set up and since the axel is now on top of teh spring my plates will be on top and teh round bolts are squared off for spring fitment.

On a side note do you have any picks of your tank installed? Pics of mounts, filler neck and rear crossmember mods needed. This will help with the many ideas I have in my head right now.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Rokcrln · 03-21-2007, 11:41 PM

For those wanting to see more on the flip kit I will be doing a full pic write up after the mock up is finished and it goes back together with bags and notches! That way I can keep all the info (pin location, C-notch dimentions, shock mounts) in one section and not spread over a few pages. I will not be working on this untill next week so it will slow down for a few days. I am heading out to the In-Laws Friday night and to the GoodGuys show on Saturday morning for some part's hunting.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

mkundo · 03-22-2007, 12:03 AM

Kevin,
We spoke last thursday and since then you have come along way on project L/B. It looks great, as far as paint the Green/ white would look great.

Dan

Rokcrln · 03-29-2007, 10:15 PM

It took 1 5/8" to get the rear end centered and it looks so much better now. I will pull the bed soon and notch, bag, weld and shaft teh rear end once the front is rebuilt and back on the ground.

I pulled the front end apart and I am glad to say I found problems

It had a real touchy road feel that I did not like. It turns out the entire front needs a rebuild, from the steering, ball joints, and the worst part the A arm bushings. The driver side upper and lower arms will move front to back with just arm power

I have all the parts that I need except for the A-arm bushings, they were used on a customer build last year (Trazer). This was about 2.5hrs of work tonight.

I will also be doing a full front to rear brake job before it is back on the road.

Well here are a few pic of tear down.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$1188.64
75.5hrs

skchevota · 03-30-2007, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

No I am using the stock set up and since the axel is now on top of teh spring my plates will be on top and teh round bolts are squared off for spring fitment.

On a side note do you have any picks of your tank installed? Pics of mounts, filler neck and rear crossmember mods needed. This will help with the many ideas I have in my head right now.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Yea, that is what I was wandering, wont the u bolt plate on top cause clearance issues with the frame? and the bed floor? most of the flip kits I have installed have come with rounded ubolts to fit over the axle and then a flat U bolt plate for the bottom of the spring. But if it fits cool, thats the low buck part!! As for pics of my fuel tankI I dont have any, My truck is in Pieces righr now , I can say I removed the rear X member and the spair tire bar, and used my hitch as a new rear X member. The tank fit well and I never had any trouble. I welded two pieces of 1" tubing across the top of the frame from sid to side so the tank had some thing to sit agenced and then made straps out of 2" x 1/8 steel flat stock and bolted it front to back. One side was attached to the hitch and the other to the X member that sits be hind the Axle that is at a slight angle. I hope this helps. My new set up will be a bit different but I havent finished it yet.

Shawn

Rokcrln · 03-31-2007, 12:07 AM

skchevota~ Its about time you show up

Yes your tank set up is almost the same thing I have been planning for mine. Rear cross is comming out and the hidden hitch is going to hold it all together. I picked up some tank strap rubbers last week to be used with 2x1/8.
What did you do for your tank fill?

Well plans have changed for my axel to leaf mounts. I had a shop (Valley Spring in Dixon) bend up some U-bolts today and they also sheared and punched my lower plates. The U bolts are 9/16" and the plates are 1/2" (I can only punch and shear up to 3/8" at home

) The reason for this change is that I will be making mounts for the top of the axle for my air bags to mount to and the stock pads would be in the way. The stock pads do clear teh frame so it will save you $118 for bolts like I spent today. But if you use your stock set up please atleast get new bolts and nuts! They are not ment to be reused after this many years! Be safe not cheap!!!

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$2133.42
77.5hrs

Rokcrln · 03-31-2007, 05:40 PM

Watching paint dry sucks but watching concrete dry is even worse. I had some patching to do today to get my shop all in shap for some up comming work. This place was built about 1915 and needed some help with the floor. I think when they poured the slab it was just a topper over alot of rock base. I had sections comming up that were only about 1- 1 1/2" thick

So while that was drying I rebuilt the front arms and here it is.
Start off by setting all your parts out along with any tools and grease that you will need. Then set the upper cross shaft in a vise. Their is not a direction you need to worrie with the uppers shafts but the lowers have a set direction you will need to follow. Slide on the grease cups with the cup end facing out. Grease up the shaft threads, cups and the end cap nuts (inside and out). Then take the A-arm and slide one side on first then the other side. Now start the end cap nuts and turn them about 3-4 times each. You want to do this even on each side so they end up just touching the A-arm with out treading into them yet. Once the nuts are almost touching each side of the arm with out threading in go ahead and start to thread one side in about 2 turns then start the other side (do not use air tools for this step). Once they are both started and even feels free go ahead and hit it with air if you want untill they are tight but the arms should still be movable. Now install the ball joints and dust caps then your zerk fittings. Just dont turn those zerks to tight

Now that the uppers are done move onto the bottom arms. I like to install the ball joints first because after installing the cross shafts they are double the weight to hold while pressing in the ball joints. Once the joint is seatted it is time for the cross shaft. NOTE the counter sunk hole will face the front of the truck and the shock mount faces the rear. Just follow the same steps as the upper arms for the rest of the cross shaft install. I will install these in the truck and then hit everything with the grease gun.

This only tok about 1hr 30min to complete all four

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$2133.42
79hrs

RACINJASON22 · 03-21-2007, 11:07 PM

Keep up the GR8 work! Cool lookin dog too. RJ22

*72CSTC5* · 03-29-2007, 10:31 PM

Gotta love getting dirty and greasy huh!? How do you keep from getting too involved when you take the front suspension apart from sayin...let me just clean this here, let me just paint this here, I need to take this apart and clean this better, maybe I should just pull the motor real quick and hit the firewall with some quick color, man that motor is going to look like hell in there, let me take apart real quick and spray some color on it. Those valve covers look cheap now in that nice engine bay, etc. etc.

Rokcrln · 03-29-2007, 10:34 PM

Easy, I have Project Slow Build to remind me to never do that again!!

Plus the fact that this is Low Buck helps keep me under control. I will be bug bombing the front and rear frame with Rust Tough satin black as I go.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

*72CSTC5* · 03-29-2007, 10:38 PM

Amen! My Blazer next to my truck reminds me of that. What pisses me off is that I have built and painted so many vehicles and motorcycles but never my own. I am too picky about letting anyone else work on my projects to speed them up but this new shop I am at, the bodymen are freaking awesome with the bodyfiller work. One of them just hand made the left quarter panel lower extension on an 88 toyota pickup. I told him it was totaled because the part is no longer available and I could not find a used bedside. He started making it from card board and used a punch to "break" the bodylines and then started away with it. I told him to wait and let me get my camera because no one would believe this. I got busy and went to lunch. When I got back he was DONE!! You wouldn't believe it if you saw it.

dan468 · 03-29-2007, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 72CSTC5

Amen! My Blazer next to my truck reminds me of that. What pisses me off is that I have built and painted so many vehicles and motorcycles but never my own. I am too picky about letting anyone else work on my projects to speed them up but this new shop I am at, the bodymen are freaking awesome with the bodyfiller work. One of them just hand made the left quarter panel lower extension on an 88 toyota pickup. I told him it was totaled because the part is no longer available and I could not find a used bedside. He started making it from card board and used a punch to "break" the bodylines and then started away with it. I told him to wait and let me get my camera because no one would believe this. I got busy and went to lunch. When I got back he was DONE!! You wouldn't believe it if you saw it.

Did you get pics of the hand made body part? What material did he use after the card board....sorry am I horing the thread? PM me if this isn't appropriate

Thanks!

*72CSTC5* · 03-29-2007, 11:06 PM

He took an old hood and removed the inner skin and then used that flat piece of metal to work with, used a straight edge to mark the bodylines, the reason he used the chisel to punch the lines is because we do not have a metal "break" at work. He is from Honduras and said they hand made panels all of the time.

falvarez12001 · 03-29-2007, 11:14 PM

Wow, I've been looking at getting a flip kit on my longhorn but as far as I know they don't make them. Now I see why, It's a whole lot of work......but worth it.

Rokcrln · 03-30-2007, 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by falvarez12001

Wow, I've been looking at getting a flip kit on my longhorn but as far as I know they don't make them. Now I see why, It's a whole lot of work......but worth it.

You know I think they do make them and even this route is not really that bad if you can weld and have some spare time.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

03-21-2007, 01:32 AM	#1
franky69c10 chevy runs deep Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: PHOENIX AZ Posts: 1,074	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! looking good...........

03-21-2007, 09:27 AM	#2
ToddSS Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Farmington Hills, MI Posts: 28	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! Man, that's sweet. Amazing work on the bed. Really makes it look simple.

03-21-2007, 06:47 PM	#3
lytemup454 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Pueblo West Posts: 264	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! In the mags for under 5k is amazing i don't care who you are. Keven you are a real reality check to thoes of us who get over whelmed by mounting costs, and high dollar shop builds that run across the same mags. It also helps to see someone from home putting it down. (I grew up in Napa But i Spent most of my teenage years all over the lake, winters, ect...) i just might have to come by and say hi when i get back from my deployment...

03-21-2007, 10:45 PM	#8
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! Started the flip kit tonight by grinding off all the old brackets and some that made no sence. This axel had a set of spring pads on it at one point that was set up for a spring under but they were not original and had been removed already. Then they had a set of bump stop pads and part of some other bracket that was half removed already. So I removed the old spring pads, bump pads and what ever was left of odds and ends. I then made the start of my new pads. They are 7" long for now and are made out of 2x2x1/4" tube. I will cut the length down after I am finished with mock up. The old pads are set 1/2" above the axel tube but I made these 1" from the tube to the spring giving me an additional 1/2" lower then regular pads. Also the reason they are 7" long is because I had to get them in place and add the weight of the truck so I could check for the tire being center of the wheel opening. Guess what it wasn't! I will need to re-drill the center pin holes about 1 1/2" offset from center in order to shift the axel back to center things up. I also removed the spring center pins and the add a leaf then I installed new pins from the top down so the new spring pads will have a good mount to center on. The new ones were a hole $2.66 for the set and came with new nuts as well. I also re-used the old U bolts for now but I will get new ones before I do any test driving. So here is were things are tonight after 2hr 30min. I like the ride height so far but I will need to get the front done, gas tank installed and set back on the ground for a good look. Then once that is done I will pull the bed back off and set up the air bags and build the C-notch so I don't bottom out. Kevin LFD Inc. $1188.64 73hrs Attached Images Last edited by Rokcrln; 03-30-2007 at 12:21 AM.

03-21-2007, 10:38 PM	#9
skchevota Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Evans, Colorado Posts: 530	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! Did I miss where you lowered the rear sidemarker down? Or were you just waiting for someone to notice? I probebly missed it. I see you found a tank. I think this truck is going to turn out pretty cool for low buck.

03-21-2007, 11:06 PM	#10
skchevota Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Evans, Colorado Posts: 530	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! Are you going to use round u bolts so that the plate and nuts will be on the bottom for clearance?

03-21-2007, 11:41 PM	#12
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! For those wanting to see more on the flip kit I will be doing a full pic write up after the mock up is finished and it goes back together with bags and notches! That way I can keep all the info (pin location, C-notch dimentions, shock mounts) in one section and not spread over a few pages. I will not be working on this untill next week so it will slow down for a few days. I am heading out to the In-Laws Friday night and to the GoodGuys show on Saturday morning for some part's hunting. Kevin LFD Inc.

03-22-2007, 12:03 AM	#13
mkundo Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Ca. Posts: 366	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! Kevin, We spoke last thursday and since then you have come along way on project L/B. It looks great, as far as paint the Green/ white would look great. Dan __________________ Dan

03-29-2007, 10:15 PM	#14
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! It took 1 5/8" to get the rear end centered and it looks so much better now. I will pull the bed soon and notch, bag, weld and shaft teh rear end once the front is rebuilt and back on the ground. I pulled the front end apart and I am glad to say I found problems It had a real touchy road feel that I did not like. It turns out the entire front needs a rebuild, from the steering, ball joints, and the worst part the A arm bushings. The driver side upper and lower arms will move front to back with just arm power I have all the parts that I need except for the A-arm bushings, they were used on a customer build last year (Trazer). This was about 2.5hrs of work tonight. I will also be doing a full front to rear brake job before it is back on the road. Well here are a few pic of tear down. Kevin LFD Inc. $1188.64 75.5hrs Attached Images Last edited by Rokcrln; 03-30-2007 at 12:23 AM.

03-31-2007, 12:07 AM	#16
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! skchevota~ Its about time you show up Yes your tank set up is almost the same thing I have been planning for mine. Rear cross is comming out and the hidden hitch is going to hold it all together. I picked up some tank strap rubbers last week to be used with 2x1/8. What did you do for your tank fill? Well plans have changed for my axel to leaf mounts. I had a shop (Valley Spring in Dixon) bend up some U-bolts today and they also sheared and punched my lower plates. The U bolts are 9/16" and the plates are 1/2" (I can only punch and shear up to 3/8" at home ) The reason for this change is that I will be making mounts for the top of the axle for my air bags to mount to and the stock pads would be in the way. The stock pads do clear teh frame so it will save you $118 for bolts like I spent today. But if you use your stock set up please atleast get new bolts and nuts! They are not ment to be reused after this many years! Be safe not cheap!!! Kevin LFD Inc. $2133.42 77.5hrs Attached Images

03-31-2007, 05:40 PM	#17
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! Watching paint dry sucks but watching concrete dry is even worse. I had some patching to do today to get my shop all in shap for some up comming work. This place was built about 1915 and needed some help with the floor. I think when they poured the slab it was just a topper over alot of rock base. I had sections comming up that were only about 1- 1 1/2" thick So while that was drying I rebuilt the front arms and here it is. Start off by setting all your parts out along with any tools and grease that you will need. Then set the upper cross shaft in a vise. Their is not a direction you need to worrie with the uppers shafts but the lowers have a set direction you will need to follow. Slide on the grease cups with the cup end facing out. Grease up the shaft threads, cups and the end cap nuts (inside and out). Then take the A-arm and slide one side on first then the other side. Now start the end cap nuts and turn them about 3-4 times each. You want to do this even on each side so they end up just touching the A-arm with out treading into them yet. Once the nuts are almost touching each side of the arm with out threading in go ahead and start to thread one side in about 2 turns then start the other side (do not use air tools for this step). Once they are both started and even feels free go ahead and hit it with air if you want untill they are tight but the arms should still be movable. Now install the ball joints and dust caps then your zerk fittings. Just dont turn those zerks to tight Now that the uppers are done move onto the bottom arms. I like to install the ball joints first because after installing the cross shafts they are double the weight to hold while pressing in the ball joints. Once the joint is seatted it is time for the cross shaft. NOTE the counter sunk hole will face the front of the truck and the shock mount faces the rear. Just follow the same steps as the upper arms for the rest of the cross shaft install. I will install these in the truck and then hit everything with the grease gun. This only tok about 1hr 30min to complete all four Kevin LFD Inc. $2133.42 79hrs Attached Images

03-21-2007, 11:07 PM	#18
RACINJASON22 GEARHEAD Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: CENTRAL,PA Posts: 2,284	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! Keep up the GR8 work! Cool lookin dog too. RJ22 __________________ 72 SWB 2WD MY PROJECT 72 LWB 4X4 FUTURE PROJECT SUBSCRIBE HEREBOARD VENDORS HERE NORWOOD MEET SURVIVOR!

03-29-2007, 10:31 PM	#19
72CSTC5 Account Suspended Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Deer Park, Tx. Posts: 2,524	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! Gotta love getting dirty and greasy huh!? How do you keep from getting too involved when you take the front suspension apart from sayin...let me just clean this here, let me just paint this here, I need to take this apart and clean this better, maybe I should just pull the motor real quick and hit the firewall with some quick color, man that motor is going to look like hell in there, let me take apart real quick and spray some color on it. Those valve covers look cheap now in that nice engine bay, etc. etc.

03-29-2007, 10:34 PM	#20
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! Easy, I have Project Slow Build to remind me to never do that again!! Plus the fact that this is Low Buck helps keep me under control. I will be bug bombing the front and rear frame with Rust Tough satin black as I go. Kevin LFD Inc.

03-29-2007, 10:38 PM	#21
72CSTC5 Account Suspended Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Deer Park, Tx. Posts: 2,524	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! Amen! My Blazer next to my truck reminds me of that. What pisses me off is that I have built and painted so many vehicles and motorcycles but never my own. I am too picky about letting anyone else work on my projects to speed them up but this new shop I am at, the bodymen are freaking awesome with the bodyfiller work. One of them just hand made the left quarter panel lower extension on an 88 toyota pickup. I told him it was totaled because the part is no longer available and I could not find a used bedside. He started making it from card board and used a punch to "break" the bodylines and then started away with it. I told him to wait and let me get my camera because no one would believe this. I got busy and went to lunch. When I got back he was DONE!! You wouldn't believe it if you saw it.



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03-29-2007, 11:06 PM	#23
72CSTC5 Account Suspended Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Deer Park, Tx. Posts: 2,524	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! He took an old hood and removed the inner skin and then used that flat piece of metal to work with, used a straight edge to mark the bodylines, the reason he used the chisel to punch the lines is because we do not have a metal "break" at work. He is from Honduras and said they hand made panels all of the time.

03-29-2007, 11:14 PM	#24
falvarez12001 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: San Antonio , TX Posts: 140	Re: LFD's low buck truck build! Wow, I've been looking at getting a flip kit on my longhorn but as far as I know they don't make them. Now I see why, It's a whole lot of work......but worth it. __________________ Why, Because it's my truck 1972 Chevy Longhorn, Dropped 4-7 1984 Chevy Shortbed custom Deluxe (Daily Driver)

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