1949 Chevy 3600 into a daily driver

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Coach, You might want to take a look thru Chuck Driver's '57 build. He bought a generic tank from Tanks, Inc. and his install looks great. Plus, if I understand him it was pretty damned cheap.

I hope no one thinks I was talking down 110v welders; I've GOT one. I had just heard you can't do major structural fabbing due to a lack of heat.
I also heard you can do more if you're able to preheat the metal.

Welders have come along way in the past couple years. I would not hesitate to to weld anything that needed to be welded on my truck with it. Rated to 3/16" steel.

[Coach529]

Punch list is getting smaller:

* Mount front shocks
* mount master cylinder
* Run brake lines
* bleed brake system
********Test Drive*********

* Install bed
* Tailights
* Trique Latch Install
* Weather Stripping
* Stereo
* Seat Rebuild
*

[xpickup]

Coach529, Looks great. It is alway good when the list gets smaller and the best part is the test drive. I never realized that the 3600 frame were so much different than the 3100 besides the length till I read your thread. I just traded some labor (changed bolt pattern on some wheels) for a bare 3600 frame. Keep up the great work.

Shannon

[coralhead]

Just looking at your boxed in rear frame. You may need to allow an access cutout to get to the nut/washer to bolt the bed down.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by coralhead

Just looking at your boxed in rear frame. You may need to allow an access cutout to get to the nut/washer to bolt the bed down.

I am trying to debate the easiest way to do that. I was thinking of making some square tubing mounts instead of using the wood. I could use some rubber belting between the bed and mount.

[coralhead]

Originally Posted by Coach529

I am trying to debate the easiest way to do that. I was thinking of making some square tubing mounts instead of using the wood. I could use some rubber belting between the bed and mount.

I think the easiest way would be to mount your steel risers, with nut access, to your bed then set the bed on the truck, align with the front and rear bed mounts, and then tack the risers to the frame and then unbolt the bed, remove and finish welding to the frame. That way the holes will align.

My .02

[1-ton of fun]

Originally Posted by coralhead

Just looking at your boxed in rear frame. You may need to allow an access cutout to get to the nut/washer to bolt the bed down.

i was about to box mine, and thought about just drilling holes in the bottom of the frame that line up with the ones on the top. then i can use really long carriage bolts and the nut will be just under the frame, easy to access.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by 1-ton of fun

i was about to box mine, and thought about just drilling holes in the bottom of the frame that line up with the ones on the top. then i can use really long carriage bolts and the nut will be just under the frame, easy to access.

That is a good point. 7" carriage bolts would do it I bet.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Coach,

Another question as I consider if I'll end up using the original straight axle vs. IFS.

How tight/loose is your steering?

I ask because on my truck you have to sort of steer left and right (constant correction)to stay straight! I assume the new kingpins, tie rods, corrected steering arms tighten things up a bunch, BUT did you do anything with the steering box? Will you? Is a power steering conversion in your future?

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Coach,

Another question as I consider if I'll end up using the original straight axle vs. IFS.

How tight/loose is your steering?

I ask because on my truck you have to sort of steer left and right (constant correction)to stay straight! I assume the new kingpins, tie rods, corrected steering arms tighten things up a bunch, BUT did you do anything with the steering box? Will you? Is a power steering conversion in your future?

I plan on tightening up the adjustment, but there is not an abundance of slack at this point.

From the steering box to the hubs everything is brand new. All new ball joints on the drag link, on the steering arms and new bearings in the hub. Better than new by far!!

Power steering? Maybe.......a big maybe. I wanna put some miles on it first before I make the decision.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok so with new bits you're NOT doing the "active steering" I'm having to do on my old beast?
Posted via Mobile Device

[NEWFISHER]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Ok so with new bits you're NOT doing the "active steering" I'm having to do on my old beast?
Posted via Mobile Device

Dan,
I just did the same conversion on the Burb and had "super sloppy, think I need a new steering box" feeling went completely away. The new design tie rods, modified arms, tapered bearings take all of the slop out ( assuming your box isn't shot or in need of adjustment) and it drives like a new truck, especially after getting the new wheels and tires on yesterday.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

Dan,
I just did the same conversion on the Burb and had "super sloppy, think I need a new steering box" feeling went completely away. The new design tie rods, modified arms, tapered bearings take all of the slop out ( assuming your box isn't shot or in need of adjustment) and it drives like a new truck, especially after getting the new wheels and tires on yesterday.

How big of difference between the old pie crusts to the current tire?

[NEWFISHER]

Originally Posted by Coach529

How big of difference between the old pie crusts to the current tire?

A very solid feel I believe from a modern radial sidewall. Smoother all around until you get up to speed and a pesky right front wheel with too much run out comes into play. 3 times, 2 shops to balence and going to be 1 more call to Wheelsmiths wheels about anouther promlem...grrrrr

Hows your project comming? we need some of those cool pics and updates!

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

A very solid feel I believe from a modern radial sidewall. Smoother all around until you get up to speed and a pesky right front wheel with too much run out comes into play. 3 times, 2 shops to balence and going to be 1 more call to Wheelsmiths wheels about anouther promlem...grrrrr

Hows your project comming? we need some of those cool pics and updates!

How much run out on the bad wheel?

[Coach529]

I really have no idea how it steers yet.......thing has not been past the end of my 50' driveway yet!!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks. You know what? After Coach replied as he did I realized I was mixing up his suspension build with yours. I came back just now to ask YOU how your Burb was "slop-wise"?

I've got very little concern about ride comfort of the straight axle if the bump steer issue has been addressed, and with Posie's OR the Teflon (or whatever it is) between the leafs. But I admit to hating the loosey-goosey steering I have/had on my old '57.

Do you plan on adding power steering? I ask because it would be easier to drive and also update the steering box. Something I figured probably HAD to be done to totally eliminate slop.

I'm VERY glad to hear yours is tight as is. It's another hash mark on the score card in favor of the original suspension!
Posted via Mobile Device

[H.I.]

Dan - I also did a 3" dropped axle from Sid using the new steering arms and new kingpins, tie rods, etc. I will attest to the huge improvement as Fisher said. However, I think it still need to adjust my steering box. There is one position that it seems to get loose. I've got another original steering box and column but I rather not have to pull mine out if I can avoid it. I've read the owners manual and it seems simply enough to adjust but just one of those I've never gotten to it deals.

But I could not believe how much better my truck drove after the dropped axle and steering component replacement.
Posted via Mobile Device

[NEWFISHER]

I was worried about excessive muscle to turn the new 215/75/15 radials and am very surprised. i don't think they changed the effort at all. You must run a drag link ( pitman to left steer arm) length measurement longer than 12 1/4 inches when you set up Sid's system. I had originally shortened it up, installed eveything, aligned it and was kind of dissapointed in the effort it took to steer it. I had bought different shims, re-evaluated the install and called Sid. He walked me through the entire install over the phone when he was on the road to a show and had time to talk. After about an hour, he says " did you shorted your drag link"? After playing with the link a couple times and hitting the swwet spot, it steers like a million bucks. I am a big fan of Sid and his COMPLETE system

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

I am a big fan of Sid and his COMPLETE system

For sure.....the guy is awesome!!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

I was worried about excessive muscle to turn the new 215/75/15 radials and am very surprised. i don't think they changed the effort at all. You must run a drag link ( pitman to left steer arm) length measurement longer than 12 1/4 inches when you set up Sid's system. I had originally shortened it up, installed eveything, aligned it and was kind of dissapointed in the effort it took to steer it. I had bought different shims, re-evaluated the install and called Sid. He walked me through the entire install over the phone when he was on the road to a show and had time to talk. After about an hour, he says " did you shorted your drag link"? After playing with the link a couple times and hitting the swwet spot, it steers like a million bucks. I am a big fan of Sid and his COMPLETE system

To be honest, I'm not sure I understand everything you said. BUT, what I DID understand is that everyone is happy with Sid and his system. I also understand that with his assistance I will be able to get the original suspension and steering to operate probably better than new.

[Midgets50]

just read your whole build thread and your doing a great job on henry. I think what he is asking btw is that why not using a lock nut instead of welding a normal nut and then using a lockwasher when you use the bolt. i dont think this applies to you. i think he is just asking in general because he has not boxed his frame yet. but thats just the way i took it

[SCHRUMGMC]

Do you Sand-Blast the Frame

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by SCHRUMGMC

Do you Sand-Blast the Frame

No there is very little loose rust. A little wire wheeling, clean and degrease with pressure washer. Then hit it KBS rust blast and then KBS paint.

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/frame-coater-kit.html

[SCHRUMGMC]

Oh so basically get all the loost rust and then Spray paint ?