'72 Chevy SWB, Project Driver

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by fishingjred73

That's what I'm making mine out of too. Pretty cool idea for the button.

When I was thinking about going that route for my gauges I was going to put a remote mount shift light in the glove box lock location.

[usmcchevy]

Thanks guys! Looks like the button is may become the "tow/haul azz" button because the trip/reset is located in the speedo.



Cut some holes for the exhaust.







I'm going to be doing my own exhaust work now due to shops wanting $700+ for it when they saw the truck. Ordered Flowmaster 815936 2.5" mandrel bend Stainless U-fit kit.





Mufflers are going to be MagnaFlow 11266's 4x9 Oval 18" , not here yet.

Have the bed off now and just got done with the wire wheel......rust, dirt and dust everywhere Hopefully have the frame painted this weekend.

[VA72C10]

Nice progress! Exhaust cutouts look good and I like how you kept them in place with the wood. Frame is looking good too. That's a dirty job. Watch out for the wires that become inbedded as the tool wears down

[oldblue1968chevy]

x2 on imbeded wires lol

looks good

wow you cut the holes with cordless drill and hole saw!!! How long did that take?!! lookin' good

[68 TT]

Nice trick to keep the hole saw in place.

[tantrumpipeline]

looking good, u should try and run a pipe or brace after making the crossmember cut before you paint, I didn't on mine and a lot of people say it causes a weak point, I have seen many with and without though, hard to say. Great idea on the cutting though, I torched mine into ovals by hand, not near as clean as yours.

[usmcchevy]

VA and oldblue,

Oh the wires.....there was still one imbeded in my shin after I took a shower

I did use a corded drill, but cordless easily could have done it. Took less than 5 mins per side with a few cool down breaks.

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Nice trick to keep the hole saw in place.

Thanks, I think the idea came from someone on here. I sprayed the inside of the hole saw with chain wax to keep the heat down.

Originally Posted by tantrumpipeline

looking good, u should try and run a pipe or brace after making the crossmember cut before you paint, I didn't on mine and a lot of people say it causes a weak point, I have seen many with and without though, hard to say. Great idea on the cutting though, I torched mine into ovals by hand, not near as clean as yours.

Right now I'm not planning on bracing it. I honestly don't think its necessary, but if I had a welder that could weld metal this thick I would be bracing it.

[oldblue1968chevy]

What size hole did you cut?

[usmcchevy]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

What size hole did you cut?

4" Hole saw was $16 from Lowes.

Edit: If you do it make sure you wear heavy leather gloves and have a very good hold on the drill....It hurts when the drill gets away from you

[Dieselwrencher]

Great work man! It's looking awesome. I also found out the hard way the other day how high exhaust shops are etting to be. They won't get my money if I can help it.

Great advise on the drill. Also try to keep the drill speed low if your drill is a high speed drill.

[mcbassin]

Nice work on the crossmember mod. I like the backup board idea.....may have to steal that one in good time. Sorry if you said, where did you pick up your stainless exhaust kit? Are you going to tig it all up? Are you going to have to clamp it in a few places to get it welded up and mounted? and dang $700 is a little steep.

[usmcchevy]

Thanks guys. Just got the garage cleaned up and the frame primed. Oh and one muffler showed up.

The kit came from Street side auto:
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/flow...t-dual-815936/
Looks like the price went up a little, it was $242 and then found a code for $15 off so $227 with free shipping.
A nice tig welded exhaust would be nice, but I'm just going to mig it.....The exhaust can't be the nicest part of the truck As for making it removable, I'm going to order 4 band clamps, just not quite sure where they are going to go yet. Maybe one set at the back of the mufflers and the other set under the cab behind the H pipe?

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

...I also found out the hard way the other day how high exhaust shops are etting to be. They won't get my money if I can help it.

No kidding. I about had a heart attack when they gave me the estimate to replace the muffler & tail pipe on my Blazer. I ended up doing it myself for less than 1/4 the price.

I will be building all my exhaust systems from now on. It's not that hard and I have the tools on hand to do it right.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by usmcchevy

Thanks guys. Just got the garage cleaned up and the frame primed. Oh and one muffler showed up.

The kit came from Street side auto:
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/flow...t-dual-815936/
Looks like the price went up a little, it was $242 and then found a code for $15 off so $227 with free shipping.
A nice tig welded exhaust would be nice, but I'm just going to mig it.....The exhaust can't be the nicest part of the truck As for making it removable, I'm going to order 4 band clamps, just not quite sure where they are going to go yet. Maybe one set at the back of the mufflers and the other set under the cab behind the H pipe?

I like to put them at the back of the muffler. It allows a little tweaking of the tail pipe location and the muffler can stay level.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by usmcchevy

Thanks guys. Just got the garage cleaned up and the frame primed. Oh and one muffler showed up.

The kit came from Street side auto:
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/flow...t-dual-815936/
Looks like the price went up a little, it was $242 and then found a code for $15 off so $227 with free shipping.

I have had good luck with those guys and they ship quickly. No handling fees like some of the other guys with the free shipping too. Lots of online discount codes you can find & use too.

[Dieselwrencher]

Thanks for the link on the exhaust. I need to put new exhaust on the 40 some time and that is affordable.

[usmcchevy]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

I have had good luck with those guys and they ship quickly. No handling fees like some of the other guys with the free shipping too. Lots of online discount codes you can find & use too.

The kit was here 2 days after I ordered it and I had no problems so I will definitely use them again.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Thanks for the link on the exhaust. I need to put new exhaust on the 40 some time and that is affordable.

No problem, might want to look at the 3" SS kit, its cheaper than the 2.5 SS kit now

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by usmcchevy

The kit came from Street side auto:
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/flow...t-dual-815936/
Looks like the price went up a little, it was $242 and then found a code for $15 off so $227 with free shipping.
A nice tig welded exhaust would be nice, but I'm just going to mig it.....The exhaust can't be the nicest part of the truck As for making it removable, I'm going to order 4 band clamps, just not quite sure where they are going to go yet. Maybe one set at the back of the mufflers and the other set under the cab behind the H pipe?

Hey thanks for the link to the kit. I may go that route myself. About the tig no big deal there. I was just curious since it's stainless. You know how tricky that can be no matter what welder you use.
I can't wait till I get to the point of laying out the exhaust on mine. I have been at a dead stop for the last few weeks. We have had 32 straight days of 100+ temps here. No a/c in my shop. Hope to change that by next summer season Let's see some more pics

[hbchevy]

Looking good man!
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[iehotrod]

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[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Hey thanks for the link to the kit. I may go that route myself. About the tig no big deal there. I was just curious since it's stainless. You know how tricky that can be no matter what welder you use.
I can't wait till I get to the point of laying out the exhaust on mine. I have been at a dead stop for the last few weeks. We have had 32 straight days of 100+ temps here. No a/c in my shop. Hope to change that by next summer season Let's see some more pics

I'm right there with you. I was so peeved when I was sanding the areas of my doors that weren't sand blasted and the sweat was rolling off of me and getting on my nice bare metal. What can you do though? I want to get my turd back together before it snows.

I can't believe the 3" kit is cheaper. They must sell more of those kits.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I can't believe the 3" kit is cheaper. They must sell more of those kits.

Better buy one now before they figure that out and jack up the cost.

[usmcchevy]

Thanks again guys.

Painted, trailing arms, shocks and dif cover were left unpainted because they all need to come off for one reason or another. They will be painted while off the truck.





Both mufflers made it here.



The kit.



Started fitting it up, nothing permanent yet.

[68 TT]

Good idea with the blocks of wood for where the bed rails are.

Don't forget to put about 400 pounds on the rear frame area to compress the suspension to where it will be with the bed, tailgate & rear bumper on. That little bit of movement can make a big difference in pipe placement around the trailing arms.

[mcbassin]

Hey nice work on the frame. Looks like you have a plan for making the exhaust too.

Couple of questions. Will you need to cut clearence in your bed for the Blazer tank? I just picked one up myself. I am gonna set my fuel system like yours too.
Did you use a Corvette regulator/filter? How do you know if you need one? I don't think my engine has a return at the fuel rail. Does that mean I need one of these style regulators? thanks