67-72 Electric speedo

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by fast70swb

The temples stil available for 25?

Yes, PM sent

[engairuph]

Interested in template also

[Curtb1971]

Hey Eric,
Picked up a 97 S-10 cluster at the junk yard today and now I need your template kit. Do you still have any available? Also had a couple questions. Will the LS tach output run the factory tach and is the LS temp sensor the same resistance as the older chevy to run the temp gauge? Been reading your threads for a couple of years and your creativity has inspired many areas of my 71 lsx build. You the man dude
Thanks, Curt

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Curtb1971

Hey Eric,
Picked up a 97 S-10 cluster at the junk yard today and now I need your template kit. Do you still have any available? Also had a couple questions. Will the LS tach output run the factory tach and is the LS temp sensor the same resistance as the older chevy to run the temp gauge? Been reading your threads for a couple of years and your creativity has inspired many areas of my 71 lsx build. You the man dude
Thanks, Curt

Yes, they are still available, I will send you a PM with payment details.

As for the tach, they will work with the output from the PCM, but you will need to change the 'tach resolution' in the tune from 6 to 3. LS engines run on a 4 cylinder mode and changing the resolution will double it to an 8 cylinder.

The temp sender has been the topic of MANY threads, but what I usually do if keeping the stock gauge is to use the stock sender that was made for it. This requires drilling and tapping the head to accept the larger sender, but it's not all that hard to do and it's the best way to assure the gauge is going to be accurate.

[Curtb1971]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Yes, they are still available, I will send you a PM with payment details.

As for the tach, they will work with the output from the PCM, but you will need to change the 'tach resolution' in the tune from 6 to 3. LS engines run on a 4 cylinder mode and changing the resolution will double it to an 8 cylinder.

The temp sender has been the topic of MANY threads, but what I usually do if keeping the stock gauge is to use the stock sender that was made for it. This requires drilling and tapping the head to accept the larger sender, but it's not all that hard to do and it's the best way to assure the gauge is going to be accurate.

Cool, I had a feeling I was going to have to tap the head. I was thinking of putting a bung in the radiator, but that's not as fail safe as monitoring actual engine temp on the other side of the t-stat. Sent the payment lastnight and will post some pics when I get working on the cluster, hopefully sooner then later.
Thanks again,
Curt

[68c10airstream]

Hi Curt, ls1nova is correct on drilling the head for the original sender. I was reluctant and my water pump has a nice flat boss on the forward area that worked great. As i've stated in prior posts that when i was done my temp gauge read about 3/4 scale as the LS runs hotter than my original 68 small block. Once it was installed and at 3/4 scale i cut the wire close to the sender, temporarily installed a variable resistor and dialed in some additional resistance and dialed the temp gauge back to 1/2 scale. Removed the resistor and read the value. It was 4 ohms, so i soldered in a 4 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor inline. All is good!

[hotrodsinner]

Hey Ls1nova, I'm interested and ready to purchase a faceplate set from you. Can you please PM me the details.

[wannabefastcrf]

does anyone covert these as a side business? I have the template from LS1NOVA and can get the parts from captianfab but not sure if i have the skills to make this happen myself.

[Captainfab]

You might send a PM to member Tbone1964. He is in the business of rebuilding gauge clusters. Also member PGSigns has started rebuilding '64-'66 clusters, but I don't know if he does any other years.

Originally Posted by wannabefastcrf

does anyone covert these as a side business? I have the template from LS1NOVA and can get the parts from captianfab but not sure if i have the skills to make this happen myself.

[wannabefastcrf]

i started by askeing TBONE1964. He said he doesn't convert them anymore. But thanks for the other name I will look into it.

[ms2335]

Are you still doing the vinyl faces. Interested in getting a set

[ls1nova71]

Yes, I still have them. PM sent

[kehstr]

sorry if i'm just not seeing this, but i can't find the socket ya'll are using for the dash lights, i just seeing lots of different ideas. Can someone who has done the conversion post a link to one that they know works? Thanks for your help in advance

[68c10airstream]

Originally Posted by kehstr

sorry if i'm just not seeing this, but i can't find the socket ya'll are using for the dash lights, i just seeing lots of different ideas. Can someone who has done the conversion post a link to one that they know works? Thanks for your help in advance

Post number 321 gives the part number and how to slightly modify them to work. It's on page 13 of this posting

[kehstr]

thank you for describing where it is

[72longhornTX]

PM Sent on getting a set of these.

[Curtb1971]

Hey Eric,
Any way I can get another speedo decal sent my way. Changing some things around. Thanks

[BustedTruck]

Ok. I'm currently doing this right now. I've got a question, when the needle is straight up and down its at 50mph. The sticker I'm putting on straight up and down will be 60 mph. Is the speedometer correction in the tune?

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by BustedTruck

Ok. I'm currently doing this right now. I've got a question, when the needle is straight up and down its at 50mph. The sticker I'm putting on straight up and down will be 60 mph. Is the speedometer correction in the tune?

With the '96 S-10 speedo in a 67-72, 60mph ends up being straight up. It has to do with keeping the sweep the same as the older speedo because in the '96 it didn't go as far. As long as your tune is correct for your application, it will be fine, there is no specific changes needed to make the speedo conversion it's self work. I hope that makes sense?

[68c10airstream]

Hey busted truck, as a past ls1nova cluster customer also remember that when you install the needle it will need to be checked for accuracy. I turned my key on and then installed the needle. It initially was off by a couple mph. I used my laptop while reading the pcm's speedo input. My prior calibration was spot on so i used that for reference, so it took a couple removals/installs to get it right.

[kehstr]

I love to see people helping so fast!!

[BustedTruck]

Thanks for the replies. Ok so if I'm understanding this right, it's all about where the needle starts out?

[68c10airstream]

That's correct. I just remembered the only problem i had when done was my needle stuck at 0 mph and wouldn't respond until i drove it and hit a few bumps and the dash warmed up then the needle moved. I pm'd ls1nova and once again he helped me and said i needed to remove the paint from the area where the needle hits the rest pin. I had painted the needles during the cluster job and the paint removal fixed it.

It does have to do with where the needle starts out at as going 60 mph and try to maintain that speed and remove the needle and then reinstall at the right moment and still drive safely is more than what i can do because i hate multitasking.

Just consider it's a trial and error process. I just left the clear lens off, made a tape reference mark for 60mph and drive and check recheck until correct. Just don't turn the ignition off at the drive motor for the needle has the tendency to move down counterclockwise, so leave the truck running and i suppose using gps and check your speed, pull over, take the needle off and reposition as needed.

Remember that these clusters are a little odd to look at around 10-30 mph because of the angle of your line of sight and referencing the needle to the mph scale but that's just the way they were. So to double check at 60mph is perfect because the line of sight at that point isn't a problem if that helps plus if it's accurate at 60 i don't care if it's off a hair at low speeds

Of all of the mods i've done to the truck the ls engine and the cluster mods are my favorites. The 8,000 rpm tach change is a must with the ls and the pcm will need to be scaled accordingly to read correctly. Terry at lone star dyno straightened this out for me. His avatar is "CRITTER"

[ls1nova71]

Yep, that pretty much sums it up. Thanks for helping out, saved me a lot of typing!

Originally Posted by 68c10airstream

That's correct. I just remembered the only problem i had when done was my needle stuck at 0 mph and wouldn't respond until i drove it and hit a few bumps and the dash warmed up then the needle moved. I pm'd ls1nova and once again he helped me and said i needed to remove the paint from the area where the needle hits the rest pin. I had painted the needles during the cluster job and the paint removal fixed it.

It does have to do with where the needle starts out at as going 60 mph and try to maintain that speed and remove the needle and then reinstall at the right moment and still drive safely is more than what i can do because i hate multitasking.

Just consider it's a trial and error process. I just left the clear lens off, made a tape reference mark for 60mph and drive and check recheck until correct. Just don't turn the ignition off at the drive motor for the needle has the tendency to move down counterclockwise, so leave the truck running and i suppose using gps and check your speed, pull over, take the needle off and reposition as needed.

Remember that these clusters are a little odd to look at around 10-30 mph because of the angle of your line of sight and referencing the needle to the mph scale but that's just the way they were. So to double check at 60mph is perfect because the line of sight at that point isn't a problem if that helps plus if it's accurate at 60 i don't care if it's off a hair at low speeds

Of all of the mods i've done to the truck the ls engine and the cluster mods are my favorites. The 8,000 rpm tach change is a must with the ls and the pcm will need to be scaled accordingly to read correctly. Terry at lone star dyno straightened this out for me. His avatar is "CRITTER"

[BustedTruck]

Thank you! I'm having trouble getting the decal straight. Any pointers? The LS is the best upgrade I've made by far. Where abouts can I get an 8k tach?