Monitor Barn Garage Design

[dsraven]

ideas I like
-large conduit, or several conduits, run for future upgrades. you never know if you wanna change your mind on the water install or whatever
-tall garage doors. 10 ft if you can. dont build for what you currently have, build for future considerations and resale value
-windows high on garage doors let light in but nobody can see in without a ladder
-bring in the largest electrical service you can and install a large panel. that way you can run lots of circuits and support a large compressor and welder etc.
-wire the plugs like a kitchen with 2 circuits per plug. that way you can run a couple of high draw tools off the same plug without blowing a breaker
-install the plug boxes a few inches above the 4 ft mark. that way you can have something on the floor and still be able to use the plugs, like a sheet of plywood or steel could be leaning against the wall and not be in the way
-run a couple of 20 amp circuits, like one on each wall, so you can run a high amp tool in different spots, like a table saw
-install a couple of plugs in the cieling for future cord reels. possibly a circuit for cieling fans as well
-wire the lights on seperate switches so you can turn on only what you need
-wire a 220 plug in a couple different spots in case you need a welder in different locations. sometimes you need/want to change your workbench location and it is handy to have the welder plug closeby. or you need a 220 plug for something else and a welder at the same time
install a switch to shut off power to your door openers in some ocscure place so when you go on holidays etc it would be harder for someone to find the power switch. yeah, I know, they could just pull the cord and open the door manually, its just one thing you can easily do
-will you finish the walls inside? if so, what do you plan to use? my shop is 2x6 construction with fiberglass insulation and drywall. the walls are 10 ft so sheeted drywall from the cieling down to the 18inch above the floor and then at the bottom of each wall it is sheeted with treated plywood in the case that there is water on the floor the drywall will not be able to wick it up and start rot. there is a short stub of a concrete wall as well so that protrudes past the wall thickness. where the wall butts against this there is also a treated wood part that is cut on an angle so any water that hits the plywood section will want to run off onto the floor since there is no sill to sit on. this is all sealed with sica concrete sealer caulking. then, in the workbench area, I have sheeted over the drywall with galvanised roofing/siding material sourced from the local farm supply. that way it is easy to clean with a pressure washer if needed and also welding and grinding at the workbench doesn't affect the painted walls with hot sparks buring into the paint or discoloring the paint. anything leaned or dropped against the wall also doesn't dent the drywall. it also helps with the fire hazard when cutting, grinding, welding etc. the panels do come in color if you go that way. I plan to sheet the side walls as well
I have a long length of exhaust flexible hose, some sort of rubber, that I simply slip under a partially opened door. I had plans on installing an outlet in the wall between the 2 big doors but the framer helping me at the time made a mistake and filled that spot with 2x6's. I'm kinda happy it isn't there now actually. it gets -30 here in the winter so any spot like that becomes a cold spot and also a spot where bugs/rodents want to come in through
-if you plan to heat the building ensure to wire for a thermostat and consider where that should be. also a switch to turn it off completely placed somewhere convenient
-if you use air tools a lot, like myself, you will appreciate lots of outlets. especially around the workbench area. I have several hose reels, 2 on the front wall and one on each side wall as well as one in the middle of the 2 bays. an outlet between the bay doors also gets used periodically outside.
-an outside plug on each wall, as well as outside lightimg on each wall, is also something I use periodically
-an RV plug on one outside wall also gets used periodically
-a good sized apron outside the garage doors is a great idea, for me anyway. sometimes you just wanna jack something up outside the door and not bring the vehicle inside. a hard surface for the jack or creeper is a welcomed thing
-a garage door operator button inside each door is also something I use all the time. a pushbutton code pad on the outside also gets used all the time, not just by myself. sometimes a friend needs access when I am not home and doesn't have a key
-its great to run wiring etc in the wall above or below where you may need to run screws in for shelves etc. of course you will use those metal things on the studs so you couldn't screw through them into the wiring, but that means there would be a screw hole in the wall finish anyway
-some bracing in the wall where shelves may be placed is great to have so you have some good strength where loads may be placed. a pic of everything before insulation and inside sheeting goes on is a great idea. assuming you are sheeting the inside

these are all things that just came to mind as I plunked away. sorry for the mumbo-jumbo thought process

[DeadheadNM]

Thank you - I'm excited. Wondering if a concealed fastener design on the roof panels is a better way to go long term versus exposed fasteners.

[AussieinNC]

Looking at the photo of the site works, just be sure to get the contractor to ensure there is a good amount of drainage slope away from the building.

It looks like the land slopes down towards the position where the photo was taken, meaning there needs to be a drainage slope at the other end of the building where the soil surface seems higher.

Great building design....enjoy your project....

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Looking at the photo of the site works, just be sure to get the contractor to ensure there is a good amount of drainage slope away from the building.

It looks like the land slopes down towards the position where the photo was taken, meaning there needs to be a drainage slope at the other end of the building where the soil surface seems higher.

Great building design....enjoy your project....

Thanks! You are completely correct. The N end (left side of photo) will have a wall not quite to the level of the wood stake shown in the foreground of the dirt pile outside the pit and a gentle slope will be constructed to shed water. The earth here is basically sand and it drains really well fwiw.

[Warrens69GMC]

Wow, nice.

[Dieselwrencher]

I'm very happy for you that you have broke ground and are under way. What do the non exposed fasteners look like? I don't think I've ever seen any buildings built with them around here. I've helped clean up a lot of damaged buildings here the last few years. Exposed fasteners are fairly simple for repairing the sheet metal. But non exposed would be better sealed IMO especially with time?

[DeadheadNM]

Thanks again guys. Ryan that's helpful to hear. The concealed fastener option and standing seam option are more expensive than the 29g exposed fastener classic ribbed panels originally budgeted so I might pass. Here's an example of a concealed panel design: https://www.metalsales.us.com/produc...tempra-series/

If you go to that website and select Industries>Residential>Color Visualizer>Explore Sample Projects, you can see the gamut of panel style and colors.

I'm trying to emulate the color scheme of a neighbors antique barn.

[hewittca]

Wow that is going to be a really nice barn! I am in the process of building a house and am trying to emulate older farmhouse styling and techniques on it as well. We just recently had the roof installed and went with the exposed fastener style. The pluses were its quite a bit cheaper than the standing seam style roof, and it actually matches traditional farmhouse styling better than the standing seam. Fastener technology has improved greatly so there's not as much worry anymore about these leaking. In the past this was a concern.

Negatives are that you have to replace the fasteners every 10 years and the panels seem more prone to "oil canning". Our roof is brand new and was installed in the winter. With the increasing temps I can already see some waviness in the flat areas. This can be improved by choosing a profile with more ridges or a thicker material.

Overall, I'm happy with our roof.

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by hewittca

Wow that is going to be a really nice barn! I am in the process of building a house and am trying to emulate older farmhouse styling and techniques on it as well. We just recently had the roof installed and went with the exposed fastener style. The pluses were its quite a bit cheaper than the standing seam style roof, and it actually matches traditional farmhouse styling better than the standing seam. Fastener technology has improved greatly so there's not as much worry anymore about these leaking. In the past this was a concern.

Negatives are that you have to replace the fasteners every 10 years and the panels seem more prone to "oil canning". Our roof is brand new and was installed in the winter. With the increasing temps I can already see some waviness in the flat areas. This can be improved by choosing a profile with more ridges or a thicker material.

Overall, I'm happy with our roof.

Thanks for posting. What color are your panels? Galvalume? I really like the look of those panels and will reach out to the supplier to inquire about a similar style. Right now we have "Classic Rib" style selected for the walls and roof. I'd like to see a different style on the roof to set it apart from the walls aside from the color.

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Thanks for posting. What color are your panels? Galvalume? I really like the look of those panels and will reach out to the supplier to inquire about a similar style. Right now we have "Classic Rib" style selected for the walls and roof. I'd like to see a different style on the roof to set it apart from the walls aside from the color.

Yes, it is galvalume in the "5V" pattern.

[DeadheadNM]

Good deal. Here’s one of my neighbors antique barns - aiming to mimic the colors. There’s a galvalume-appearing standing seam roof that uses white trim and classic barn red.

[Dieselwrencher]

Pete, is that roof original for that barn?

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Pete, is that roof original for that barn?

I don’t know for certain but I would suspect it isn’t. There’s white trim around the edges and at the peak that don’t strike me as being period correct. The barn was raised in 1929.

There was a tradition of nailing a sapling tree to the peak of a barn once the frame went up. Here’s a photo of a local barn raising that shows just such an attached sapling.

[DeadheadNM]

We need a trucks with barn thread maybe.

[Dieselwrencher]

The reason I asked was I don't remember seeing original old barns up there in WI with tin rooves. Most were shake shingles then tar based shingles. My Grandfather grew up on a dairy farm near Rhinelander. They had a cheese factory and Grandpa had to go pick up milk jugs and deliver them growing up. He had some stories. Anyhow, he used to drive me around all over up there showing me old farms he delivered to. I'm sure most of those old barns are gone now unfortunately. You best get you a sapling to keep tradition. Do you want to start the truck barn thread. This will get side tracked in a hurry.

[bwl101]

Nice! Can't wait to see the progress and the finished product! I'm jealous!

[DeadheadNM]

More progress. Footings then stem walls in.

[DeadheadNM]

More progress. I’m worried it’s too small.

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

More progress. I’m worried it’s too small.

They are never big enough. I started at 40x60 and have added that much again and could add that much again.

[DeadheadNM]

Popped by a garage sale on the way to see a parade Sunday afternoon. Seller had this custom swing out trolley lift for sale he used for decades to do small engine repair. Maybe repurposed as a Blazer top hoist?

[DeadheadNM]

I did get a good deal on some locking steel cabinets at another garage sale. Sad to see the time come for these old timers to clear out their shops.

[DeadheadNM]

Made some progress since the last post. We did get a sapling pine up to pay respects.

[DeadheadNM]

Added some bracing for Blazer top storage and chose these exterior lights from the Steel Lighting Co. - USA made, US steel and really good quality.

[biketopia]

Looking really good!

[tim71]

Very nice. Looking forward to seeing finished project.