"my '68 chevy project - show n go".

[ripdog28]

Go to http://www.earlyclassic.com/ scroll down the page and you will see the cross member for what you need. I went with the whole rear set up from them.

[yfz450_0569]

Originally Posted by ripdog28

Go to http://www.earlyclassic.com/ scroll down the page and you will see the cross member for what you need. I went with the whole rear set up from them.

thanks, i'll check out the sight more if i need anything. i'm not planning to go with trail arms so this wont be the right crossmember. does 26" between the rails seem narrow?

[ripdog28]

OOH yea forgot you were doing a half back. No, 26" is correct. I believe that is what mine was.

[yfz450_0569]

Originally Posted by ripdog28

OOH yea forgot you were doing a half back. No, 26" is correct. I believe that is what mine was.

cool, taking a little break from working on the truck to design a bit of a track for my fourwheeler. something always comes up

[yfz450_0569]

what tool can i use to cut angles very accurately?

[rstrick]

A chop saw works well for those kinds of jobs.

[yfz450_0569]

Originally Posted by rstrick

A chop saw works well for those kinds of jobs.

hasn't been going to great for me but maybe it's because i used another tool for a few of the angles. the angle lined up where one side touched and the other part was about a 1/4 inch apart and i just welded all of it shut and grinded it down smooth and plan on welding a gussett over it. will this be too weak? i think most of the strength of the frame is on the gussetts since the welds on the frame are grinded down

[yfz450_0569]

Originally Posted by yfz450_0569

I'm planning on running a 3 inch exhaust. How do I do this with the crossmembers? Might there just be one or two between the engine and the rear of the cab? Do I just leave room exactly for the 3 inches or do I cut 3 1/4 or 3 1/2 inch holes? If I do bigger than the exhaust, will it not knock against the outside of the holes? Sorry if I'm asking too many questions, but you all told me to ask if I needed and I want to plan ahead as best I can.

this question still hasn't been answered...

[BACKYARD88]

You should be able to go over the trans cossmember. You can cut holes in the T/A crossmember, I'd use 4" ID pipe to weld in the holes that way you have some room around your exhaust pipes to keep from having rattles. This thread has some good info in it.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...st+crossmember

[yfz450_0569]

thanks, kinda what i thought of doing just with a bigger pipe. another question, is it too weak for the frame to weld about a 1/4 inch gap, maybe a little less, closed on the kickup? i thought i shouldn't hurt since it was only on the bottom and touches on the top and since the weld is grinded flat and smooth and gusset welded over it. any info? i might redo it anyway

[BACKYARD88]

Originally Posted by yfz450_0569

thanks, kinda what i thought of doing just with a bigger pipe. another question, is it too weak for the frame to weld about a 1/4 inch gap, maybe a little less, closed on the kickup? i thought i shouldn't hurt since it was only on the bottom and touches on the top and since the weld is grinded flat and smooth and gusset welded over it. any info? i might redo it anyway

I'm not positive I fillow what you're saying, but if there's a plate welded over it then I'd think it should be strong enough.

[yfz450_0569]

Originally Posted by BACKYARD88

I'm not positive I fillow what you're saying, but if there's a plate welded over it then I'd think it should be strong enough.

it seems as if i did my math a little bit wrong or the tools i used to cut the tubes didn't cut the angles straight, and if i fit the pieces together exactly the front kickup is about an inch to high so to lower it it makes the angles not fit together properly

[BACKYARD88]

I think I see what you're talking about on your rear frame. Honestly, I would re build it and make the kick up tubes go down the inside of the frame rail to the bottom. That way you can weld along the edge, around the bottom, and around the top. Here's a pic of mine in progress so you can see what I'm getting at. Yours may be strong enough the way it is but again, I'm not sure.

[yfz450_0569]

i'm actually building the whole frame front to back now and it was just a few math errors on how long the pieces that go up at an angle are supposed to be. i started over and used my dad's bandsaw this time and was like WOW at how easy this made it. i just cut the pieces shorter to make them touch or very close at least at the angles. i hope to get most of it lined up and at the right height and all by this evening if not too much comes up again. maybe i can have the frame rails welded together before i go on the church youth retreat this weekend

[yfz450_0569]

Some more progress before my 3-day weekend. Got the frame welded and grinded, few crossmembers tacked in and all clamped down to the frame. What a pain welding when it always shifts while welding! Any tips for this? I have it all clamped down to the table now exactly the way it's supposed to be and I'm afraid that it's gonna once I undo it again. Anyway, here's some pictures:

[BACKYARD88]

Tack everything together. If you're mig welding weld in sections letting it cool in between welds. It's looking good

[yfz450_0569]

Originally Posted by BACKYARD88

Tack everything together. If you're mig welding weld in sections letting it cool in between welds. It's looking good

do you think welding the the dropmember and a one or two other crossmembers would fix the problem of it moving again when i unclamp it all? it's gonna sit like this for 3 or 4 days until i get back to work

[BACKYARD88]

If you could get a couple of those crossmembers welded all the way around that would help a lot. Also, you can tack a couple of diagonal braces on temporary to keep it square.

[yfz450_0569]

Four link rear suspension questions. What do you guys think about the parallel four-link rear? I talked to Nathan at Porterbuilt and he said that this would be best for the amount of power that I'm putting out. I was looking at getting some parts on suicidedoors. I was thinking about using a 2 inch square tubing for the bottom bars and then a 1 or 1.5 inch round tubing for the top or see if i could get this size in tubing. I would probably use a 24 inch panhard bar which would be about as wide as I could fit in there. What do you think about this set-up? I don't know a lot about this four-link stuff so and pros and cons about this setup would be great. Thanks

[BACKYARD88]

Sounds like a plan to me. I have a triangulated four-link with those size bars. Only thing I would consider is a watts link instead of the panhard bar.

[yfz450_0569]

Sounds like I made a good choice. Tubing would be easier for the bottom right? And then I think it would look better with square tubing on top to match? What's the Watts link and where do I look?

[BACKYARD88]

If you don't mount your bags on the bars you don't even need the square tubing, you could use round for both. Here's an expensive polished one but it's fairly simple to build your own.
http://totallypolished.com/watt's_link_kits.shtml

[yfz450_0569]

The bags I'm using are going to be right on top of the axle so I guess I could go with round tubing. Would 1.5 inch round tubing top and bottom be strong enough?

[BACKYARD88]

Mine is 1.5" .25 wall. I think that'd be plenty strong enough.

[yfz450_0569]

for 550 hp hopefully. took me a few minutes to understand the watts link, but I just might give that a try